Hooker A,B,E, and F body headers

[SlantSixSullivan]

Found a fair deal on some brand new Hooker 5901HKR long tubes which are specified to fit the above mentioned body styles. I am aware that F and M body cars are the same, and that since these headers should fit F bodies, they should also fit M bodies. My question is this: other than perhaps a mini starter, are there any other significant modifications to make them work in my Diplomat? To lift the engine is no problem, it is in place but has nothing attached yet and it still loose. I saw some reviews where A body owners had to mess with the steering linkage to make these work for them. I would like to avoid that if possible. Thanks in advance.

 

[SlantSixSullivan]

I forgot to mention, this is a 360 automatic with power steering and power brakes.

 

[MiradaMegacab]

https://www.jegs.com/InstallationInstructions/500/520/520-5901-1.pdf

 

[SlantSixSullivan]

https://www.jegs.com/InstallationInstructions/500/520/520-5901-1.pdf

Thanks. At least I'll know in what order to do it

 

[M_Body_Coupe]

Yeah, the instructions are pretty good. The prep goes a long way to getting this done in an easier rather than harder fashion.

1) get the started out of the way
2) get the steering linkage out of the way

It is probably best to have the car up on some ramps. Frame stands might be OK, as you would have some extra room around the engine/wheels areas, but might run into challenges depending where the frame stands are holding the car up.

I found the PASS side to be a much easier job than the DRIVER, mostly because of the steering box though.

Good luck, this will get you that fun & beefy sound that we all crave...and heck, there is a lot more to it, depending on the mufflers you pick, etc, etc...

 

[SlantSixSullivan]

Yeah, the instructions are pretty good. The prep goes a long way to getting this done in an easier rather than harder fashion.

1) get the started out of the way
2) get the steering linkage out of the way

It is probably best to have the car up on some ramps. Frame stands might be OK, as you would have some extra room around the engine/wheels areas, but might run into challenges depending where the frame stands are holding the car up.

I found the PASS side to be a much easier job than the DRIVER, mostly because of the steering box though.

Good luck, this will get you that fun & beefy sound that we all crave...and heck, there is a lot more to it, depending on the mufflers you pick, etc, etc...

No starter in the way, as this is a small block swap in place of the old slant that was in it. That simplifies that part. Steering linkage shouldn't be too bad, either. Still gotta level the engine, bolt up the TC and center the transmission before I can proceed. Hey, maybe the car will sound as good as yours when I'm done! (I watch your youtube channel)

 

[SlantSixSullivan]

Just a side note, if anyone cares to check out the Magnaflow 10416 mufflers, my opinion of them is that they sound very good with no crackle, and that's what I plan on running when this is all together

 

[XfbodyX]

Many times if you have the gear selector on the column you will have fits, workable fits but I did not see it mentioned.

 

[SlantSixSullivan]

Many times if you have the gear selector on the column you will have fits, workable fits but I did not see it mentioned.

I'll soon find out. Thanks

 

[M_Body_Coupe]

No starter in the way, as this is a small block swap in place of the old slant that was in it. That simplifies that part. Steering linkage shouldn't be too bad, either. Still gotta level the engine, bolt up the TC and center the transmission before I can proceed. Hey, maybe the car will sound as good as yours when I'm done! (I watch your youtube channel)

Oh, I'll take that compliment anyday!!! Thank you...

Here are a couple of shots of how I did the install in my coupe, engine and trans together, got the tilt/leveler hookup in place, the chassis was still nearly stripped of everything, so not much weight, easy to move around, re-position, etc.

Hope it gives you a chuckle!

 

[SlantSixSullivan]

Oh, I'll take that compliment anyday!!! Thank you...

Here are a couple of shots of how I did the install in my coupe, engine and trans together, got the tilt/leveler hookup in place, the chassis was still nearly stripped of everything, so not much weight, easy to move around, re-position, etc.

Hope it gives you a chuckle!

View attachment 44036

View attachment 44037

View attachment 44038

I really like the paint on that engine. Very clean. Doesn't appear to be a factory color, looks a bit brighter than the blue I'm used to seeing I guess.

 

[SlantSixSullivan]

Here's mine, along with three of the four exterior appearance options I'm faced with. The only other option I have at the moment would be the cop car steelies with all the stainless trim. Looks better in person, especially after washing.

 

[M_Body_Coupe]

Oh, it'll all come together, just a matter of time and a little elbow grease!

I remember way back when my coupe was in a much rougher shape, so it's certainly doable. Keep on plugging away at it, the results will be rewarding.

 

[Oldiron440]

Thanks. At least I'll know in what order to do it

Your going to need to change your name...

 

[SlantSixSullivan]

Your going to need to change your name...

Someone else said that, too. At the time I created this account, I had only ever had slants. Well, and a 413. But never a small block

 

[MOPAR MIKE]

Found a fair deal on some brand new Hooker 5901HKR long tubes which are specified to fit the above mentioned body styles. I am aware that F and M body cars are the same, and that since these headers should fit F bodies, they should also fit M bodies. My question is this: other than perhaps a mini starter, are there any other significant modifications to make them work in my Diplomat? To lift the engine is no problem, it is in place but has nothing attached yet and it still loose. I saw some reviews where A body owners had to mess with the steering linkage to make these work for them. I would like to avoid that if possible. Thanks in advance.

Used them in a 5th Avenue, no problems.
Not the best design header, spark plug wire killer on #5 & #7.
Seems all the econo headers have adopted this design.

 

[SlantSixSullivan]

Used them in a 5th Avenue, no problems.
Not the best design header, spark plug wire killer on #5 & #7.
Seems all the econo headers have adopted this design.

Yeah, the whole "get what you pay for" thing applies I suppose. Perhaps I can shield the wires somehow, that already crossed my mind. Thank you

 

[M_Body_Coupe]

Used them in a 5th Avenue, no problems.
Not the best design header, spark plug wire killer on #5 & #7.
Seems all the econo headers have adopted this design.

Mike brings up a good point about the plug wires.

I coverted the plug end to a 90 deg boot and stuck a sleeve on both. Now the wires go under that #3 primary tube and fit fairly well.

 

[MOPAR MIKE]

I bought a set of straight boot Taylor wires, used 6 of the wires.
Then bought 2 single 135 degree boot plug wires. Taylor sells single plug wires.
These will make the wires come straight up against the valve cover & away from the header tube on #5 & #7.
Also could just buy the a full set of 135 degree boot wire set.