Insurance

shadango

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So, do any of you have your daily driver F/M/J bodies covered for comp/collision?

Wondering how an insurance company would determine "ACV" actual cash value if we ever needed to do a claim? KBB no longer lists our 80 Volare.....

We have had the Volare covered for a couple years now or so, about $40 a year...I figured for glass, vandalism etc.

Wondering if its still worth it or not?

NADA shows it valued at about $1400 "average".

We have a $100 deductible right now....$1300 left.....and I think its 75% of the ACV when they "total" a vehicle?
 
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Aspen500

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Honestly, on a daily driver more than maybe 10 years old, collision coverage isn't really economical. If you can get comp, that would be good for glass breakage, etc.
 

shadango

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Honestly, on a daily driver more than maybe 10 years old, collision coverage isn't really economical. If you can get comp, that would be good for glass breakage, etc.
Well, on the Volare, comp/collision with a $100 deductible is only $50 a year...have to buy both comp AND collision together....comp is only $14 a year.
 

slant6billy

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Daily driver quotes will change US and Canada, even state to state. Some states have dirt cheap insurance and some like NJ are stupid expensive. There are factors that come into play- the ability to sue the other person. I had a list from about 12 years ago somewhere that showed the best car for the money to insure. I remember the Ford Taurus station wagon being the 1st on the list. On average 300-400 year with comp/ collision. Made me want to find one and still do. 1994/95 preferably to avoid the inspection in NJ. The formula used per state, also is based on county and city. Dense population and other factors. Sadly, a 30 to 35 year old car as a daily driver with limited new parts to fix is going to run the risk of getting a car declared "totaled". Plenty of good cars out there with "salvaged" titles on them. All because some insurance adjuster followed the formula and ruled a "loss".......... meaning they ain't going to pay to fix it. My dad used to let em "total" the car, then buy the car back for less than the check they gave him for the car. My sister's blue SE coupe was rebuilt 7 times. Had both doors ripped off, both fenders a 1/4s smashed and rearended 3 times. I think my dad was making money by rebuilding it if I sat and did the math. Now parts are harder to get, so it is going to cost to rebuild a 35 yearold car to good condition. Buy cheap and drive cheap.
 

BudW

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Please, only compare insurance rates within each state!
In all 50 states (and even our “territory’s”) – what is covered under liability, under comp (compressive) or collision, etc. as well as minimum limits for each - varys, as well as factors as what’s sueable and so forth also effects prices, in each state.

In most states, it is not worth the money to pay extra for comp or collision for a vehicle over 15 years old – in most cases. Some cases, the lender (if applicable), a person’s job may require it, or a person might just want to have it for peace of mind.
If in an accident (in most cases), the car will be totaled out because of new parts availability.

Also, as the car gets older, how a vehicle is optioned becomes less of a factor on the ACV (Actual Cash Value). KBB (Kelly Blue Book or KBB.com) “trade in value/what's my vehicle worth” is one way to get an idea on ACV – but in most cases, the insurance company will give you a better figure than what KBB gives. With that said, it generally will NOT be what it takes to get an equivalent replacement. What I tell people is when trying to determine ACV is to hope for the best but plan on the worse.

Another thing to remember – especially if travailing out of state: your auto insurance changes just as soon as you cross the state line – to whatever that states insurance rules/regulations are. I would say that of the 50 states, DC and other territories – there are more differences in insurance rules/laws in each state – than similarities.
What I’m trying to say that if you are an auto insurance expert in one state then you can toss all that knowledge out the window just as soon as you cross the state line/or into another country.

I do happen to know this, because I’m an auto insurance claims adjuster – who happens to be licensed (as a property/auto claims adjuster) currently in all 50 states and Puerto Rico (but not in DC or other territories/or country’s). It is not easy to be licensed in my own state (Oklahoma) – but to do so for the other states, with all the differences – gives me a headache just talking about it.

At least my company pays for my continued training and license fees and so forth (about $3,500 (US), a year) and they also pay for me to keep up with my ASE (Automotive Service Excellence) certifications, as well.
BudW

Note: ASE dropped my Master Machinist title off the report (below), when they discontinued that section. I still have the Master Machinist arm patches and is proud to show ‘em off, along with the others.
Also, I worked in an auto parts store, back in the ‘80’s for a spell. That store closed, and I have no records of employment to show to ASE now – even though documentation was given to them back in the ‘80’s. I’ve never worked in an auto body shop, before – other than doing my own body work (which I don’t like to do).
 

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Oldiron440

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That applies to liability but comprehensive witch is fire and theft along with acts of God and collision witch are paid to you are based in the state it was written, the only way to carry comp and collision on an older model is with an agreed value at the time the policy is written. Some Ins. Co. want an independent appraisal for the vehicle in question. Some policies have requirements that include the vehicle must be parked in a locked garage and can't be driven to work a certain number of days a month.
I've had experience with State Farm and I've seen others use them also. In the auto body trade for forty years I've repaired many çars after the insurance company has written a stated value policy for an older vehicle.
I think the highest repair bill was just under 30k.
 
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