is this normal?? found this 1979 asp-dust-runner

Aspen500 said:
Those scoops weren't offered on f-body, but they should have been.

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yep, I know they were stopped around 75, and agree they should have continued offering them.
I have seen a bunch of volare' road runners and aspen R/T's with them added.
and they look like they belonged there. ;-)
Aspen500 said:
Those scoops weren't offered on f-body, but they should have been.

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cant argue that it dont look like it belongs on the car. when a blind an can see it looks perfect there.
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It's funny, so many Aspen's and Volare's have the a-body scoop, you'd swear they were a factory option.

Someone correct me if I'm wrong, IIRC the twin snorkel scoop was on '75 and '76 Duster/Dart Sport.

Be careful. You said "may as well" about the scoop. May as well, while I'm at it, since it's apart, etc. Know how that goes and have the car to prove it, lol. Think it's called the snowball effect :)
 
Aspen500 said:
It's funny, so many Aspen's and Volare's have the a-body scoop, you'd swear they were a factory option.

Someone correct me if I'm wrong, IIRC the twin snorkel scoop was on '75 and '76 Duster/Dart Sport.
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not just the plymouths, but the Aspens too. it is by far the most commonly used after market / reproduction scoop for them.
I think they were first offered on the 73 340 duster/ twister
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Aspen500 said:
It's funny, so many Aspen's and Volare's have the a-body scoop, you'd swear they were a factory option.

Someone correct me if I'm wrong, IIRC the twin snorkel scoop was on '75 and '76 Duster/Dart Sport.

Be careful. You said "may as well" about the scoop. May as well, while I'm at it, since it's apart, etc. Know how that goes and have the car to prove it, lol. Think it's called the snowball effect :)
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going through the net and seeing so many aspens and volare's and most all with this style hood scoop.
I'm wondering if some car dealers were offering them as dealer options.
I mean does any one know if the scoops ever become un available to order as new old stock/ after market add ons??
 
Never were a dealer installed part. So many have them because, well, they look good on an F.

Follow up to your other question. As mentioned, 7 1/2" from rear of the hood. That's where I thought it looked best.

On the under side where the mounting studs lined up with bracing, used a 3/4" spot weld cutter to make access holes. A hole saw would work but the cutter makes a clean, round hole.

My scoops quality was questionable and almost sent it back but, a few hours of work and it's fine. Had to do a bunch of scribing to the hood contours also.

Under it, I glued fender welting to prevent squeaks and to give it a finished look. Welting came from Speedway Motors.

Not sure if you want your scoop functional or not but, I cut out the center, following the bracing, and then hammer/dolly to form a small upward lip. Hard to see in the pics though.

I remember measurining and checking a hundred times before cutting and drilling, lol.

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thank you verry much.
yah, my scoop aint the prettiest either, has some defects. and a couple chips from pulling it from the molds. but I can fix them.
I only paid 150 for it, and got it off wal mart.com (believe it or not).
bonus is it is all ready white. so I can mount it As is. and it will look like it has been there for a while LOL.

I was just going to cut open the hood same as your pic, and use it as a guide for placement. but was afraid it might be too far back.
thats the purpose for my contacting you, since I seen you have one all ready mounted. never hurts to ask. and doing so saves head aches. ;-)
now after seeing your pics, I'm thinking thats why it's designed that way LOL
I was thinking about Using 3 M molding tape under the edge to seal it. after I have dry fitted it, and I'm happy.
I'll make a paper template for mounting to mark out the bolt locations. then use it to drill out the holes.
I'll probably just use a 1/2 "-3/4" hole saw for access. where I drill through the bracing
then use a dremil die grinder or sanding wheel to smooth them out. it will still be clean that way.

my scoop also uses bolts that go into mounting holes. but I think I'll swap them over to studs.. what do you think about that idea?
 
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Aspen500 said:
.

I remember measurining and checking a hundred times before cutting and drilling, lol.
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as mentioned.. thats why I contacted you for your advice. I had a heck of a time doing my wagon's sccops.
they are just ABS after market glue ons from lund. but I made them fun-ctional too.
 
Studs and nuts make it easier to attach the scoop vs trying to hold it in place to line up the bolt holes.

Somewhere I've photos of my scoop when it came out of the box. As mentioned, almost sent it back. Worst part is, in the late '80's I bought a rotted to the door handles '75 Duster (or was it a Dart Sport???) 360 4brl for the engine and trans. Had a mint original twin snorkel scoop and,,,,I sent it, along with the remains of the car, to the scrap yard. Kick, kick, kick. If I'd only have known.....
 
Aspen500 said:
Studs and nuts make it easier to attach the scoop vs trying to hold it in place to line up the bolt holes.

Somewhere I've photos of my scoop when it came out of the box. As mentioned, almost sent it back. Worst part is, in the late '80's I bought a rotted to the door handles '75 Duster (or was it a Dart Sport???) 360 4brl for the engine and trans. Had a mint original twin snorkel scoop and,,,,I sent it, along with the remains of the car, to the scrap yard. Kick, kick, kick. If I'd only have known.....
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yah,I believe that fall under a live and learn moment.,what the simpsons homer demonstrates as DOH!!! empathized usually with a hard slap to the forehead,
they happen to everyone from time to time.
 
armataz said:
it is titled as a 79 duster,
(based off the plymouth volare')
but it has road runner body flares and road runner deck spoiler apearse to be factory installed and has an economy 225 (85 MPH speedo) not super 6.
I'm thinking I'm going to do an engine swap. to something more modern maybe a engine/ trans from the 90's. any advice would be apreciated.

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I have the 79 Duster and it didn't come with any flares or.spoilers.
It had a factory 318 which I have changed to a 360 and it had the louvers on the rear side winders. The console was factory in that car.
 
Dustergirl79 said:
I have the 79 Duster and it didn't come with any flares or.spoilers.
It had a factory 318 which I have changed to a 360 and it had the louvers on the rear side winders. The console was factory in that car.
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thanks dustergirl for the added information. I had a 75 duster . but had to give it up because there was a lot going on.
I seen this one sitting all dressed up and I kinda went nutz.
this thread is me learning stuff. it might not be all original with the road runner body kit.
but that just gave me permission to play with it more. since some one else all ready has.
not that I'm exactly the type to leave stuff alone any way ...
I also have an issue with mono tone paints. so I'll atleast be looking at a stripe kit, if I dont give her a complete 2 tone black out style paint job
 
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Note that there were two Duster packages... A42 Volare Duster package and A48 Duster Decor Package...A48 required A42:

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Mr C said:
Note that there were two Duster packages... A42 Volare Duster package and A48 Duster Decor Package...A48 required A42:

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this is most helpfull, as it covers the (Load Runner) sport wagon as well. I have a thread asking about it's details as well. thank you much.
looked at the different decal packages offered by pheonix. and the only one offered in the colors I want (tripple blue, ) are for a road runner
 
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any one know why they replaced the metal glove box hinge to a molded plastic hindge?. my dusters is warn out and has mostly ripped down the fold line.
 
Why did they do it? It was cheaper that way.

My interior is from a '77 RR and has the metal hinge vs the original plastic one.

Someone correct me if I'm wrong but, pretty sure a metal hinge door will screw on in place of the plastic hinge.(?) It's been over 30 years since swapping interiors and really can't remember how it was attached anymore.
 
Aspen500 said:
Why did they do it? It was cheaper that way.

My interior is from a '77 RR and has the metal hinge vs the original plastic one.

Someone correct me if I'm wrong but, pretty sure a metal hinge door will screw on in place of the plastic hinge.(?) It's been over 30 years since swapping interiors and really can't remember how it was attached anymore.
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you can swap the mounting plate and hinge, but you have to know how to disassemble the lock latch, to remove it.
 
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