K member isolators

[lowbudget]

I did the poly K member isolators on my Fifth Avenue. Then it sat a little higher in the front so I threw on the new overloads I had saved for my Aspen wagon project. I just drove it to town and back but it feels much stiffer. I am fixing to run over to Colorado and check on a rear sway bar for it. It should let me know how it rides. I couldn't justify the added cost of the solid mounts.

I then had to put the KYB's on my beater Aspen and take the Rock Auto clearance shocks off. Hopefully it will be a win win situation.

 

[Justwondering]

Forgive my ignorance.
What is and where is an isolator? ditto for an overload.

i've searched on the net and mostly its folks wondering which brand to get and asking weather it is a street car or a racer.

 

[lowbudget]

The isolators are 4 sets of pucks that isolate the k member from the body. Mine were pretty well shot. Here is what I used. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ens-5-4111r/overview/year/1973/make/dodge/model/charger ESPO spings and things sells them also. The solids are available from feel firm. Here are the shocks I used. Monroe shocks and struts for cars and trucks - Shockwarehouse.com I think it will stiffen things up. My 77 Aspen is firmer than my Fifth Avenue. I did the front as per the Mopar Muscle article but I think I could do it a little faster using a cut off wheel.

 

[Justwondering]

So this is the body to the frame sort of like the motor mounts are for the engine to the frame.

 

[Aspen500]

So this is the body to the frame sort of like the motor mounts are for the engine to the frame.

Yes, pretty much similar thing.
I previously has some old Direct Connection cast steel mounts I put in back around 1988 or so, and switched to poly mounts now for a little bit of NVH isolation. Why? Must be one of those getting older things, lol.

 

[lowbudget]

It drives so much better! No more wishy washy road boat feeling. I'm ordering another set for the Aspen....before I forget how to do it quickly......

 

[Bruceynz]

Just done mine with FF solid ones, to be honest its a prick of a job to do the back ones!

 

[jasperjacko]

Is there a reason other than the steering shaft that you couldn't just bolt the k directly to the sub frame? I just looked and answered my own question. Fan would hit shroud, air cleaner to hood clearance, bell housing to tunnel clearance, just to name a few.

 

[BudW]

Justwondering,
Your front K-frame mounts in four points to frame (picture is L/F corner looking towards the R/F wheel).

Most users, the original rubber mounts are fine. Many enthusiasts prefer solid (or harder rubber) because they handle better. Think of it this way, on a hard turn, these four bushings “give” before car begins to turn. Yes, they do reduce NVR but at the expense of other functions.

I have a set from Firm Feel, but need two more sets.

Note: I will wait until doing two or more major things on car, before changing them.

BudW

 

[Justwondering]

BudW
Since this car is approaching 30, is there a checklist of these 'not your usual maintenance' items I should be concerned about?

My plan is to get the mechanical and electrical issues addressed this year.
Then next year, have the paint done and get the brightwork back in shape.

I'm thinking it would be better if I identify any concerns before the paint job, so I could go ahead and have the deeper internals addressed as needed.

Isolators .. k frame mounts - I better understand what that are and why they are important from this thread but it does make me wonder what else I'm ignorant of that I don't know to ask about. (Not stupid, but ignorant - not knowledgeable of).