M-body "wish" list

[Monkeyed]

I jammed some pioneer 4way 4x6s in my rear deck last night, just an fyi they will not fit without some hogging out of the openings. I just used my die grinder and basically friction melted about a quarter of an inch from one side and drilled some new holes for the mounting screws

I meant 6x8s.. magnets are smaller than stock, so not a ton of bass. I plan on running subs eventually anyway, so that doesn't even matter. Mids and highs don't even compare. So much clearer.

On another note (see what I did there?), I got my EL strips in the mail finally! I picked them up from the ebay source posted in a different thread. I'll put the link in if I can find it. I have a long weekend coming up for the holiday, should be able to get some time to put them in. I'll be following the instructions from that other thread if I can find it, or going by memory. Either way I plan on taking and posting pics along the way.

 

[Jack Meoff]

Here's that thread....

http://www.forfmjbodiesonly.com/cla...-EL-strip-replacement-procedures-1988-5th-Ave

 

[Monkeyed]

Ok, so the installation was pretty straight forward. A couple minor things to look out for, but other than that went very smoothly.

I just popped this out to use for splice into with the new kit wiring.

I like to put the fasteners in the ashtray. keeps them in one easy to find place, and I can keep each side's separated from each other.

Have to be careful removing the clear plastic cover. It looks like they were either joined with heat, or some kind of chemical process, either way they're melted together. That and mine were a bit brittle with age.

Test fitting, the replacement strip isn't as wide as the original, so it's important that it's centered in the housing. As you can see, I bought the cut to fit piece, and planned to run the wire out the bottom (more on that later).

I just trimmed the end off to fit with a pair of scissors, and used the 3M mounting tape to secure it in place.

I used RTV Black around the edges, because it's tough, rubbery, will form a nice watertight seal, and unlike silicone will also be resistant to heat and temperature changes for many years to come. just a little cheap insurance. Again I had to be careful with how tight I clamped these since they're becoming brittle with age, and exposure..

This is the other side, as you can see I just cut thin strips of the mounting tape and set them in a row.

This is the problem I ran into with trying to run the wire out of the bottom, easy enough fix..

I just flipped it and have the wire running from the top, I doubt anyone would ever know the difference.

 

[Monkeyed]

Test fitting, you can kind of see where I drilled the hole for the wire on the top of the one in the background.

I decided to just mount the new inverter next to the old heat sink. Another important point, if you're going to splice into the old connector, (and why wouldn't you?) black is positive, and white is ground for some reason.

Neatened up a bit, I put more RTV on the connectors that are between the electrical tapes, only because it's likely to be exposed to water, and I don't want that corroding.

All buttoned back up, and working like a charm!

Trashy, but Classy!

 

[Jack Meoff]

Very cool!
I'm going to tag this thread to the other one.
Thanks for posting!
Pics are always very helpful!

 

[Monkeyed]

Decided on a steering wheel. Have to measure, but I think this is about an inch or so smaller than the stock one, give me some room for my legs in there.

Looks cool, not too pricey, just have to wait until after Valentine's day to get it. Taking the wifee to Chicago, trip's going to cost me more than the car did :angry2: oh well, gives her something to brag about to her friends.

Still debating if I should try a new ECU first or not. Drove it Monday, and it ran like a dream for the 15 minutes to where we were. Sat for a couple hours and it was back to just ok for the drive back. Seems to run better when it's cold.

 

[greymouser7]

the gas tanks are still 20 bucks on ebay, I saw one two weeks ago

I listed the windshield part number and cost on my build thread, heavy metal hell raiser -cost me $250, but can cost you as little as $50

mirrors are on ebay, and if you can accept driver quality can be had for less than 50 bucks INCLUDING THE PASSENGER SIDE SPORT MIRROR!!!

you have a fine navy day and stuff!

 

[Monkeyed]

the gas tanks are still 20 bucks on ebay, I saw one two weeks ago

I listed the windshield part number and cost on my build thread, heavy metal hell raiser -cost me $250, but can cost you as little as $50

mirrors are on ebay, and if you can accept driver quality can be had for less than 50 bucks INCLUDING THE PASSENGER SIDE SPORT MIRROR!!!

you have a fine navy day and stuff!

I don't mind paying exxtra for some things, as long as they're worth the extra expense. I hate paying a premium for junk, not willing, or able to pay top dollar for things. I havve more time than money, so I take the slow boat to china effect. or the slow build to china as the case may be lol I don't do credit, and the business is still struggling to recover from the great stock market crash of '09.

Mostly I've found that the more methodical I can be, the more impressive the results are. I don't mind reaching a 'desicion gate" and tabling it for months while I mull it over. inspiration comes with time. I just need to step back, and let the image of what I want to accomplish with it form in my mind. seeing the end result,and working out all the steps, and expenses needed to arrive there.

 

[Monkeyed]

the builds on here are awe-inspiring, I don't have the ways, or means to make something like that happen. especially not working in that field, I don't get that sweet employee discount anymore, and if I do have a chance to pay those kind of prices, its generally for a reason. I'll get to where it needs to be, at it's own pace.

 

[Jack Meoff]

the builds on here are awe-inspiring, I don't have the ways, or means to make something like that happen. especially not working in that field, I don't get that sweet employee discount anymore, and if I do have a chance to pay those kind of prices, its generally for a reason. I'll get to where it needs to be, at it's own pace.

That's my plan too.
I wish I had the chops and resources that some of these maniacs do.....but I don't so it's slow and steady as she goes.

 

[Monkeyed]

That's my plan too.
I wish I had the chops and resources that some of these maniacs do.....but I don't so it's slow and steady as she goes.

It's amazing how fast the money can start to add up if you're not careful.:tongue8: And how easy it is to get yourself in over your head.. :tongue7:

Seems like the "easiest" route for the short term would be to pull the 318 out to get worked over, bored, maybe a 360 crank added, cammed, headed and headered.. but then comes the potential pain of keeping the carb happy, and the yanking of the wallet strings every time I go to fill it up.. I'm sure it'd be a hoot and a holler and all, but maybe overkill.

I still dream of retrofitting a stock magnum and the overdrive tranny, computer and all. I found a 94 trans out of a Ram that needs rebuilt for $75 on cl, tempting, also saw a 'ran great when pulled' 360 out of a '98 for $300. don't know if it comes with the acc. or wiring harnesses, or ecu tho..

For now, since it's running well enough to be bearable, and getting better mileage than when I got it, I'll probably not mess with it for now, and focus on the smaller details. She needs sway bar end bushings, and some load assist shocks in the back would help hold up sub box nicely I think, and make cornering less sloshy until then..

 

[Jack Meoff]

Yep....doesn't take long at all.
I used to have a long list for my Fifth but now it's all upkeep stuff. This spring is double roller timing chain upgrade with the MP tensioner and of course since I'm already in there a new HD water pump. Then there's bodywork and paint on the Volare and realistically the same timing chain and water pump scenario should probably happen sooner than later on both that and my Caravelle.

I've got more than enough wallet draining goodies on the burner even before I think about any performance mods...

 

[Monkeyed]

do you know what the stock sway bar diameter is? I see there's a 1 1/8" one, and one that isn't. I'm assuming the 1 1/8" is the police package one?

 

[Monkeyed]

do you know what the stock sway bar diameter is? I see there's a 1 1/8" one, and one that isn't. I'm assuming the 1 1/8" is the police package one?

To answer my own question, it is the 1 1/8"..

Moving on..

This is my latest foray, I've gone through multiple cans of rust converter, the stuff sprays on clear then turns the rust black. Works best on surface rust, but the rust can't be too thin either or the converter doesn't have enough molecules to adhere to the metal. I'll take a few pics of areas I haven't sprayed over with the white yet.

Which brings me to, I didn't want to just put a coat of lacquer on, I wanted something tougher to try and keep the rust from reforming. I was looking for a white epoxy paint when I found this ceramic based engine paint. It goes on kind of rough, but it seems hard as a rock. It's kind of a flat white, but it's certainly an improvement over the rust. I'm pretty sure I could eventually sand and paint over it, but for now I'm debating covering the whole car in it and seeking how well it holds up..