New to this forum & get rid of Lean Burn?

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Hi Everyone,
I'm new to this forum but I have been a member of E Bodies only for a while. I just obtained a 1985 Fifth Ave. from an estate. The car was last registered five years ago but had had limited driving up to about a year and a half ago; since then it had sat. When I went to pick it up, I pumped up the tires, checked the fluids (except the Trans. - since it was not warmed up) and swapped out the battery. Got it started and drove it home - about a 30 mile trip and intensionally did not go over 45 mph.
During that drive it stalled out several times at a stop; I guess I need to adjust the idle on the carb. It also shifted sluggishly, so I will check the transmission fluid and maybe drain it and put in a new filter.
Other than the above items what are some other things or areas to inspect on this car?
Also, what are the necessary parts to add and steps tob taken in getting rid of the Lean burn/computer module assembly? I do have a distributor off of a 1974 Dodge Polara that had a 360 motor, and I have the air cleaner from that same car.

Thanks in advance for your advice,
Bruce
 
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bremereric

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You can either do the Mopar Perfomance ECU and distributor deal. Revert it back to a 70's ignition system or buy a Ready to run distributor from MSD. That's what I did for my M body.
 

Jack Meoff

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Good call from bremer. I have an 87 and it was stalling too when I got it. Did the plugs, wires started running 91 octane and advanced the distributor till she JUST started to knock. Backed it off a squeak and voila! Runs like a champ. (well... a lean burn champ anyway). When I get some extra dough, gonna swap it all out for the MOPAR ignition setup bremer was talking about. Think it's just under $300 from Summit.
 
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Thanks Bremereric, and Captain Caravelle! I will check on advancing the timing just a bit. And check the plugs. Do either of you have a preference of plug brand? I think it has Champions in it now.
Thanks,
Bruce
 

ramenth

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Eric's right on the distributor. Good call would be to upgrade to the ECU.

Good source, along with a wiring diagram if you can score some junkyard parts:

http://www.oldengine.org/unfaq/leadfoot/leanburn.htm

Area's of suspect? Since you're in Florida I doubt if you'll be seeing the rust we in the north, do, but take a look at the top of the right side front frame rail behind the tire. These cars have a shield that goes over the lines in that area. Held on with just sheetmetal screws. Take it off and check your lines. Even in cleaner southern climes this can gather road debris and general crap and get trapped.

Filter change and fluid swap aren't a bad idea on a trans that's been sitting, just like an oil change for the engine. What I do is unhook the pressure line from the trans cooler into a bucket and crank the car for just a second or two (ten at the most) and let the pump push all the fluid out. Fill with clean oil and repeat. Then drop the pan, do my band adjustments, change the filter, and fill. Ready to go. This cleans out the fluid in the converter, too, and gets all new oil in there, instead of leaving the old oil in the converter to be topped off with new when you refill.
 

ramenth

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Thanks Bremereric, and Captain Caravelle! I will check on advancing the timing just a bit. And check the plugs. Do either of you have a preference of plug brand? I think it has Champions in it now.
Thanks,
Bruce

I'd go with the plug that you've had success with. I use Champs in my Mopars, but have had success with NGK's, too.
 
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Thanks Robert, I'll check that area on the frame rail. Where do you undo the transmission pressure line? At the radiator?
Also, I don't have the dough for a new Mopar Performance Distributor & Ecu Kit just now, so I'll wait or use my 74 distributor and search the junk yards for the rest.

Thanks,
Bruce
 
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Dr Lebaron

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Here ya go

Ign.gif
 
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ramenth

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Thanks Robert, I'll check that area on the frame rail. Where do you undo the transmission pressure line? At the radiator?
Also, I don't have the dough for a new Mopar Performance Distributor & Ecu Kit just now, so I'll wait or use my 74 distributor and search the junk yards for the rest.

Thanks,
Bruce

Yup. Unhook it from the radiator.
 

Erics5th

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HEI ignition is also a good option. Gets rid of the ballast resister and you don't have to use the over-rated, unreliable orange box from Mopar. Hotter spark too. Super easy to wire up also....as in only one wire to tap into. Have used this system on my 5th since I bought the car in 5/09 and have never had an issue in 30K+ miles.
 
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Thanks Erics5th, it's good to know all the options. By the way, what brand did you buy? Was it MSD? Were the installation instructions easy to follow?

Thanks again,
Bruce
 
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Thanks Eric5th,
It's good to know all the options. By the way, what brand did you get, was it MSD? Were the installation instructions easy to follow?

Thanks again,
Bruce
 

Erics5th

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Sorry Cap'n. May have one on my face book.... After I bought her I put the aluminum caps on that my Satellite came with. Then I put the police rims on with the caps and rings that where on the Satellite. A year later I put the cop rims back on the Satellite when I sold it (big mistake) and the standard rims back on. Kept the stainless cop caps. I've had them suckers for over 20 years!
 

Jonnyuma

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I went from LeanBurn to conventional electronic ignition to full-on HEI. Besides getting rid of my manual-choke 4150 it was the best upgrade I've made. It pisses off the purists no end, but I consider that a bonus too, no extra charge.
 
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