Oil pan gasket

Duke5A

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We used RTV ultra black and an impact..if it leaks, I'll swap engines so I can make sure it's on there better..haha

Get ready for leaks. NEVER use an impact reassembling an engine! You probably just deformed the shit out of the pan rails.
 

BudW

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Get ready for leaks. NEVER use an impact reassembling an engine! You probably just deformed the shit out of the pan rails.
I would agree with that - unless he used a large quantity of RTV – which results in squeeze-out.
Squeeze-out on outside is not a big concern. Inside of the engine, the squeeze-out will break off and end up in the oil pickup screen - which makes for a different oil related problem.
 

Duke5A

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I would agree with that - unless he used a large quantity of RTV – which results in squeeze-out.
Squeeze-out on outside is not a big concern. Inside of the engine, the squeeze-out will break off and end up in the oil pickup screen - which makes for a different oil related problem.

So make up for a bad idea with an even worse idea? o_O:eek::)

I would have used Hylomar on both sides of the cork gasket and applied just enough to coat it. Splooge a fair amount of it where the cork gaskets meet the rubber in the corners. Use hand tools to tighten the pan bolts in increments crisscrossing as you go. If the bolts don't have a washer cast into them, use the largest you can find that will still fit within the pan rail to distribute clamping - maybe add a lock washer to the top of it. If you dimple the pan rail it's all over.

Might even have been a good idea to make studs out of bolts to aid you in putting the gasket in place. I did this for my valve covers the last time I took it apart to reseal when I blew that head gasket.
 

MBDale

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Great thread! These are a pain to change. Mine was a few drips, I took it out to change it and over a year later stuff is still apart. But then I decided on a new pan.


Good luck brother!!

61741AFC-0020-4981-A91C-16522705AD8A.jpeg
 

BudW

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One nice thing I like about big blocks is the (mostly) flat oil pan rail on the block. The timing cover and rear main seal plate kinda interfere with that flatness sometimes – but at least it is not as multi-piece and complex as small blocks are.

This is a typical big block oil pan gasket:
BB OPG.jpg


If you have an windage tray, then double that gasket (one for each side of the tray). Note: windage trays are free horsepower. I won't run a small or big block without one – even a 318 2-bbl.
Mr Gasket came out with a wonderful oil pan gasket for big blocks not long ago:
Mr G OPG 61100g.jpg

It combines both oil pan gaskets and windage tray in one part. It also uses more modern gasket materials and bolt torque limiters which is a plus:
Mr G OPG 61100g b.jpg


This, however, is not useful for those with a small block.
BudW
 

Oldiron440

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Clean up the block and wipe it dry, I would glue the gaskets to the block at this piont. Next is getting the pan in place after your sure the gaskets are not going to move around. Sealants can be used, I like High Tack and Permatex products but I'm stingy with the silicone materials for all the reasons discussed earlier.

Note: I have lost a crankshaft and rods to orange RTV in a low mileage 440, 500 miles after I bought it. The previous owner had replaced the valve cover gaskets with RTV and it stuck the oil pump relief valve open.

Keep it clean and be careful putting the pan on, getting a good pan seal isn't always easy and in the vehicle makes it more of a challenge.
 

brotherGood

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Impact wasnt first choice, but it was kind of a necessity considering the position (especially the front 2 bolts. We did get everything started then came back and torqued in order.

Needless to say, this will not be a job done in the car again. Hopefully, I won't need to do it again at all..but time will tell.
 
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