Parts Wanted List

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Bryan M.

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Got plans, so let me know if you have any of this available. J-car preferred, but if you have F or M stuff that might work I'm interested.

Floor shift system with console
Bucket seats
Steering column for a non-column shift car
Manual transmission pedal assembly
Imperial top dash plate, color does not matter (between windshield and dash cap)
Tuff Wheel or Sport Wheel (the four-spoke found in Ramcharger/Daytona/Omni)
Imperial outer emblems (x2 fender and x1 trunk)
Imperial fuel tank. Must be useable, with good fuel sender.
 
All from a J Body - I've got a red factory console (no shifter) with red pad for $90 & white leather bucket seats and back seat set but they will need recovering...buckets are $50 each and the rear seat set is $65...the seats have a few hard places, a few cracks and are stained...I can get you photos tomorrow if you will IM me with your cell # so that I can text them to you. I'm in Knoxville and could possibly meet you if you are in the east side of KY.
 
I already tried the column/pedals on Moparts, they sold fast. The fuel tank must be Imperial...the problem I have is that the Mirada tank I put into the car does not have the correct sender for the Imperial's fuel gauge. Instead of falling numbers, I have "FULL" and "14", which means I'm about four miles from fuel starvation.
 
Bryan, does the Imperial sender not work in the Mirada tank? I'm not getting rid of my fuel tank, but the fuel level gauge I'll be using is programmable so I can run any sender I want. I'd be willing to part with the sender (if you're not in a huge hurry), but I need to keep the tank for its separate fuel pump opening.
 
The Imperial tank had two ports, one a sender, one I'm not sure (pump for EFI?). The Mirada had one port. If it's a converted Imperial, it might, but I'm not sure. I'm not in a hurry, it's just something I need to address sooner or later. Hate it when the gauge suddenly goes to "14" and I go "Oh, crap"...
 
I just talked with a friend of mine who's parting an '81 if memory serves. I can get the dash plate out of it, and probably the tank and sender. The second port is for a lift pump for the EFI, which is why I need the tank that's in my own car. The electric pump was very similar to the later in-tank pumps used with MPFI, so I'm going to try and modify the carrier for my 450LPH EFI pump.

Obviously, like all Imperials, the one being parted is a column automatic so that's out. As far as the Tuff wheel goes, I have one but it's not great. It's an original '70-'74 style. My thought was to use a lace-up leather steering wheel cover if I can find one, but I have a nice four-spoke leather sport wheel I'm going to use, and I'm putting a rim-blow in my Challenger. I'd send you pics of it but my camera bit the dust last week and my phone will neither transmit pictures nor allow them to be downloaded to my PC anymore... I have a new camera on the way, though. I'm undecided as to whether I'm going to use my console right now, to be honest. It'd have to be pretty heavily modified to work with a stick, as would the shifter handle itself (I'm using a '71-'74 B-body bench-seat Pistol Grip).
 
"Parts Wanted List
Got plans, so let me know if you have any of this available. J-car preferred, but if you have F or M stuff that might work I'm interested.


Floor shift system with console"
Manual transmission pedal assembly
-make a reasonable offer
 
greymouser7 said:
"Parts Wanted List
Got plans, so let me know if you have any of this available. J-car preferred, but if you have F or M stuff that might work I'm interested.


Floor shift system with console"
Manual transmission pedal assembly
-make a reasonable offer
Click to expand...

Mouser, I was able to find the console. If you've got pedals, though, I'm certainly looking. Can anyone give me a reasonable offer for them? I wouldn't know where to start.
 
they run 250 on ebay-which is kind of expensive, but everything for these cars seems to be going up-heck, grilles have shot from 200+ thru 1200-ridiculous

people want silver and gold prices for choice equipment

it's more than just pedals though, nocar340 could probably tell you better than me: bell housing, Z-bar, Z-bar grommets?, pivot shaft, clutch fork, shifter linkage, pilot bushing, machined crankshaft, transmission, correct length tailshaft (i believe a or fmj body), I might not be using the correct terminology and am leaving out something

it takes time but if you can purchase bundles or parts -it would be cheaper than the 4 thousand brewers' or passon might charge you

I have been buying stuff for years when money AND deals aligned like the stars

if you look at FABO in the mechanical for sale forum thread-you will see a combo bundle of almost everything which runs over a thousand bucks
 
greymouser7 said:
they run 250 on ebay-which is kind of expensive, but everything for these cars seems to be going up-heck, grilles have shot from 200+ thru 1200-ridiculous

people want silver and gold prices for choice equipment

it's more than just pedals though, nocar340 could probably tell you better than me: bell housing, Z-bar, Z-bar grommets?, pivot shaft, clutch fork, shifter linkage, pilot bushing, machined crankshaft, transmission, correct length tailshaft (i believe a or fmj body), I might not be using the correct terminology and am leaving out something

it takes time but if you can purchase bundles or parts -it would be cheaper than the 4 thousand brewers' or passon might charge you

I have been buying stuff for years when money AND deals aligned like the stars

if you look at FABO in the mechanical for sale forum thread-you will see a combo bundle of almost everything which runs over a thousand bucks
Click to expand...

OUCH. While I agree it's complete, if a thousand is a reasonable offer, I've got to decline, it's too rich for my wallet right now.
 
-something to consider, MANY people run out of patience and steam on their dream project, to get it running, driving, legal & stopping- is TREMENDOUS motivation to pushing ahead on your project, a large appetite of champaigne on a beer budget becomes a long term dream that is realized once in a blue moon

it's usually better to enjoy yourself now and figure out a economical budget & fast timeline to get finished vice saving for that twin-turbo_600ci"_Hemispherical_shevy/mustang_crushing_sleeper that we all wouldn't mind driving

personally, i have traded time for money and then have still been betrayed by friends in the Mopar community-losing $700 or $7000 between a buddy's shop or a professional shop (my schedule is a hinderance) <- so small steps might be best, like a running used transmission while saving for the stick combo

always shop for a deal on a good clutch-that's a shelf item, but good ones might start at $300-thru $1000 ( I think a LUK clutch is under 500, along with mcloud? & one other typical hi-po make) used-still in box (NOS) would be a term to remember when searching/shopping

i like your choice though, everything in my driveway, to include the wife's vehicle, is a manual transmission vehicle
 
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greymouser7 said:
always shop for a deal on a good clutch-that's a shelf item, but good ones might start at $300-thru $1000 ( I think a LUK clutch is under 500, along with mcloud? & one other typical hi-po make) used-still in box (NOS) would be a term to remember when searching/shopping
Click to expand...

clutches are 96-130 on rock auto
 
All the clutches on RockAuto are diaphragm, with the exception of the ACDelco 3-finger (Bog & Beck style) listed for some applications. Diaphragm pressure plates were designed for lighter pedal pressure--to make the clutch easier on the left leg--and do not have the holding power of a Borg & Beck or Long design. This usually isn't an issue with a stone-stock application unless you're doing a lot of towing. However, as you get into higher horsepower it does become more likely to slip. In a lot of cases, it's a personal choice. Diaphragms are spongy and undefined; with a B&B, and moreso a Long, you can feel the clutch's internal leverage working. If you're looking for performance use the only diaphragm worth knowing is a Centerforce due to its centrifugal weights. They increase plate loading with RPM (and increase clutch effort as they do). It's a good compromise. One thing to remember if you choose to use a diaphragm pressure plate: You must remove the over-center spring from the clutch pedal. Even the Centerforce will hang on the floor in "good-time party shifting" if you leave the spring in place. They just don't push back hard enough to overcome that spring. Centerforce tells you this; LUK and others do not. Now, for your consideration: That spring does a lot of the work for you when pushing the clutch pedal, so you may find that removing it and using a weaker diaphragm clutch results in similar pedal effort to running a stock-type Borg & Beck pressure plate with it.

For anyone considering using hydraulics to operate the clutch, check either the original application's clutch design (OE parts) or get hard numbers from the manufacturer (race stuff) to make sure your master & slave cylinder can handle the type of clutch you'll be using. The hydraulics on a Dakota, for instance, will not last with a 3-finger pressure plate of any significant plate load. The old iron stuff from '60s Dodge trucks would probably push through a brick wall, on the other hand. :icon_biggrin:

If you're using clutch linkage, forego the factory passenger-car arrangement at the fork adjuster rod and use the metal ball & associated pieces from a Dodge truck. PGClassics in Canada sells their fork adjuster setup for the muscle-era stuff with the good stuff already on it, and the price is downright bargain basement ($16+shipping). It works on our cars too. If you're not interested in concourse restoration, a lot of the restoration stuff such as brackets, boots, z-bars, and pushrods can be modified from other applications and can be had pretty inexpensively. PG sells reproduction Z-bars for under $50; cut one arm off and reposition it correctly, possibly trim the tube, and install. Better than paying top-shelf price for a rusty original if you ask me.

The A & F-body cars have the shorter tailshaft needed for the swap, but if you can get it with the shift linkage in place, or make sure the seller knows what he's got when you're shopping. A-bodies were available with both close-ratio and OD transmissions in '75-'76; all F-cars were OD. Simply put, the close-ratio 3-4 linkage rod from an A-body will not work without modification on an A/F-body OD transmission and vice-versa. The other linkage rods can be made to work. Replace the crappy Inland shifter used on OD transmissions with a Hurst Competition Plus piece from just about any Mopar application. Optimally, you'd get your hands on a set of rare Hurst Comp Plus rods for the overdrive transmission... but don't hold your breath.
 
greymouser7 said:
i like your choice though, everything in my driveway, to include the wife's vehicle, is a manual transmission vehicle
Click to expand...

There's a historical reason for that choice.

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Dip Insurance Pics 008.jpg


raceday 004.jpg


Dip Insurance Pics 008.jpg
 
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