Performance Meter

[BudW]

So . . . you are planning on making several changes to a vehicle – but wants to know how each change actually does affect the vehicle? (Slant6billy comes to mind).
Well, in this case, I want to know the exact details – for the “seat of your paints” method is not good enough for me.

What I want, is to get this:

GTech Pro RR GTech-Pro RR Fanatic ($300 US), but that is too much for me to spend for what I will be getting out of it.

What I did find was this (an older version) for about $80 (US) on eBay.

GTech Pro Competition Performance Meter

It plugs into cigar lighter and sticks onto the windshield. No OBD2 port required.

I hadn’t plugged it in yet (my cigar lighter needs a bit of work first, on both cars), but will be posting results soon.

For the HP and torque readings to be correct, it wants to know the exact weight of car.
Getting the vehicle weight(s) are on my “to do” list, but I guess I need to bump it up higher on my list, now.
Now, where to go for scales (yes, I know . . . )

 

[Justwondering]

Well, i'd drive down to the Farmer's co-op and have them weigh the car. Normally they weigh trailers and grain, etc. But they'll weigh anything-- great guys.

How does it work if there isn't a dataport?

 

[kkritsilas]

Inertial readings ( a small steel ball moves around inside the unit, and it measures how far how fast the ball moved around, basically). The faster it moves indicates acceleration, longer it moves indicates speed. Horsepower/torque are calculated form the weight of the car. Just a general idea, there's a bunch of math involved, which given how cheap microprocessors have become, is not a big deal.

Not totally accurate, as tire slippage can cause errors. Newer units are probably using GPS signals as well. This one may be as well, I don't know the unit.

 

[BudW]

The box says it uses GPS as well has “multiple inertial sensors”.
I have no idea how it works, other than it just does it.

I agree, it is not totally accurate – but in my case, I can perform tests (solo) in the same manor and location – so it will give me comparison results accurate enough for me – with the exception of temperature and/or wind differences.

Tire slippage? My ’86 5th Ave won’t hardly slip the tires if driving uphill on watered down ice (. . . for now, anyway).

You can have 20 different vehicles saved, each one with its own data saved (weight, shift points, tach calibration, etc.).

Odd thing is you have to pre-set the tach red line, then run engine at 2000 RPM and at 4000 RPM for unit to calibrate its sensors to engine speed. Well, I don’t know of any M-bodes with a tach, so how is a person to know what RPM’s are to calibrate meter with.

That said, I went down to parts store to look for tools with Tachometer built into them - but were not present, except for a timing light. I didn’t want to purchase another high end timing light – so I started to look at aftermarket dash mounted tachometers. They had one on clearance for $28.00.

I’m going to get a length of wire with alligator clips on it, so it can be transferred from vehicle to vehicle (like the Performance Meter can be).


Hehe, I may have to give the first person to answer correctly a drink, if they can tell me how to check the RPM’s on my diesel pickup (I know how - but something to think about).
It has no electrical ignition system and a mechanical (not electric) fuel injection pump.

BudW

 

[7T8 Custom]

TISS sensor will give you RPM.

 

[BudW]

TISS sensor will give you RPM.

The Transmission Input Speed Sensor (TISS) - a very good guess and a correct one - but not in this case.
The only sensor on (or around) my NV4500 transmission (5 speed manual) is the Transmission Output Speed Sensor (TOSS) - which (only) drives the speedometer.

 

[80mirada]

Pressure impulse sensor on cylinder number one's fuel injection line.

I can think of a few other ways I have seen

 

[Cordoba1]

Hey Bud -- Another option for you: Any chance you have an Android or I-Phone? There are apps that can be dowloaded that perform many of the same functions as a performance meter. Androids and I-Phones have both GPS and gyros built in, so they have the hardware necessary.

 

[BudW]

Pressure impulse sensor on cylinder number one's fuel injection line.
I can think of a few other ways I have seen

Another good guess, but is not the case on my stock '97 Dodge pickup diesel.
There is no sensors needed for the mechanical fuel injection nor for the manual transmission.

It does need a computer (PCM/ECM) if it had a gasoline engine and/or if it had an automatic transmission (Throttle Position Sensor - TPS).

 

[BudW]

Hey Bud -- Another option for you: Any chance you have an Android or I-Phone? There are apps that can be dowloaded that perform many of the same functions as a performance meter. Androids and I-Phones have both GPS and gyros built in, so they have the hardware necessary.

I've tried out a friends phone app, and wasn't impressed.

the bigger problem I have is I have 9 year old twins, who seam to suck the battery life out of any electronic handheld device within a room of them.

 

[Cordoba1]

Maybe "Test and Tune" night at your local drag strip?

 

[BudW]

Ok. I have my first test results in.
This is on a stock ‘86 5th Ave 318 2-bbl with 74k miles, which I suspect has stopped up catalytic converter(s) (untested - so only a guess).

The car feels like I could get out and wash windows, for how slow it takes off.

Yahoo!
0 to 60 in less than 10 seconds (barley)!

 

[Cordoba1]

Oh, cool! I didn't see that you already had the meter.... And those results probably aren't that far off from what they were right off the assembly line. They were never fast.

 

[BudW]

Once I get the cigar lighter working on my wagon, I’ll hook it up.
It ”feels” like it will run circles around the 5th.

The wagon came with a lighter assembly and a used ashtray - but no signs of wiring going to it, anywhere in the vicinity.

 

[kkritsilas]

For the question regarding reading RPM on the 5th Ave., look for an old dwell/tach type meter. They can be simple or complex. Some are just pointer based, some of the later fancier units can actually have an LCD readout. I have a big Craftsmen unit that has an LCD readout (only a few digits) and a pointer that I got at a garage sale for $20 a couple of years back (along with a Sears Penske timing light). Has all of the cables and the manual with it. Almost new, but nobody uses them any more. Looks like this:

 

[slant6billy]

I have one of those G techs in my 97 Ram truck. What I found, is you should run a baseline for a reference and document it. I ran my truck bone stock at the track on a summer test and tune night in 97 w/o the G tech. Flat 16 second run. So in the past 19 years, that baseline run I know which direction to go. The Volare' is more anarchy I get putting some improvements to advance performance, only to lose in one realm where gains in an other don't make up for it. Get a small copybook or somehow document your changes and results. I've been able to go back to a point where the gains were or find where certain things like engine timing or trans adjustments made the eureka moment.

Plus, I have run my car side by side against my truck and a few stangs. However, that is where anarchy puts the rubber to the road. A trip to the Dyno shop is in order.

 

[BudW]

Get a small copybook or somehow document your changes and results. I've been able to go back to a point where the gains were or find where certain things like engine timing or trans adjustments made the eureka moment.

That is the plan.
I learn a ton off of other people - so I see no reason to not post what I've learned, for others.

I have a feeling your ‘97 Ram is in a different class than my '97 is.
'97 Dodge ¾ ton 5.9L Cummins diesel, 5 speed, 2*4, Dana 80, long bed and crew cab. 245k miles and it gets me 23-24 MPH on highway.
It weighs in at 8,950 pounds (with me in it) – 90% of which is over the front tires.

The only modification I know about is the previous owner removed the 30 gallon muffler and replaced it with a piece of 3” (or larger) straight pipe.

Get into anything slightly muddy, sandy or icy, and you ain’t going anywhere.

 

[slant6billy]

That is the plan.
I learn a ton off of other people - so I see no reason to not post what I've learned, for others.

I have a feeling your ‘97 Ram is in a different class than my '97 is.
'97 Dodge ¾ ton 5.9L Cummins diesel, 5 speed, 2*4, Dana 80, long bed and crew cab. 245k miles and it gets me 23-24 MPH on highway.
It weighs in at 8,950 pounds (with me in it) – 90% of which is over the front tires.

The only modification I know about is the previous owner removed the 30 gallon muffler and replaced it with a piece of 3” (or larger) straight pipe.

Get into anything slightly muddy, sandy or icy, and you ain’t going anywhere.

Man, that is the truck I should have bought. This is mine:

 

[BudW]

Your truck definitely wins in the looks department. Mine is just plain ole white.

I think the two trucks might be fairly matched up in the ¼ mile – after you add about 4,000 pounds in the bed, first.

 

[Jack Meoff]

I have one of those older G Tech's.....
Never have played with it yet.