Bruce, I'd be happy to do that.
Just need to find how much postage would be.
The seal kit is several O-rings and a seal, which is a bit bigger than your thumb - so an envelope with a piece of paper wrapped around the seals should work fine.
For some odd reason, it is cheaper to purchase a pump seal kit, than it is just for the shaft seal (which comes in the kit). The seal doesn’t leak as often as the seals do, anyway.
The O-rings get hard and shrink - if not break apart. Most of the ones I work on that are 20+ years old, I have to use a small screwdriver, or a pick, to get all of the can O-ring pieces out, with.
Note: I use a 90 degree angle pick to remove old O-rings with. I also put a bit of new fluid (whatever fluid that system uses) in a small metal dish. I then either dip the entire or part of O-ring and then take my fingers to make sure O-ring is quite lubricated (I think is a key to a good O-ring install). Roll O-ring into its place. Then take a fingertip and add more fluid onto the O-ring again before pushing the two parts together. If it doesn’t push together smoothly and easily – then stop. Take apart and re-examine everything.
I have had way too many O-rings damaged or cut upon install, in my lifetime. A bit of patience, and if it doesn’t go smoothly, then something will be tore up – and stop before going any father!
If pump is off and on the bench. I can change out the can out and reseal it, in about 5-10 minutes. That is if I leave the front shaft seal alone. There will be evidence and a good size fresh oil trail from the shaft seal – if that item is leaking (which is not likely).
The shaft seal takes special tools and takes about another 30 minutes to change, roughly.
The can removal will be an oily/greasy job.
I recommend getting a couple blocks of wood and some scrap cardboard.
Set pump on top of cardboard with lid upright.
Remove rear bracket nuts (if applicable).
Loosen the fitting and remove carefully.
Tilt pump backwards (tilting pulley side up) watching for any small shims and/or a ball bearing to fall out of the fitting hole.
Remove the two studs and make note on which direction they go into pump.
Place pump pulley on two blocks of wood, pulley side down.
Gently tap the can upwards.
There might be a small amount of residual fluid inside the can, possibly, that might pour out.
Replace the large O-ring and two O-rings/seals for studs – using plenty of P/S fluid for lube.
Place can back on top of pump but don’t push on, yet.
Thread both studs and fitting (with new O-ring/seal) in place by a thread, or two (include any shim(s) and ball bearing – present).
Gently push can downwards.
If it takes more than a gentle and smooth push, take can back off and make sure can O-ring is on correctly. It should pop right in place.
Finger tighten the two studs and fitting.
Place pump back in an upright position and remove wood blocks.
Tighten studs and fitting.
Reattach rear bracket(s), if applicable.
Your existing P/S pump will have two rear brackets (one might stay on engine). The Magnum pump might not have or use a rear bracket.
The front bracket(s) and pulley can remain in place – unless you are changing the shaft seal.
Again, I would use the fitting and can from existing pump and transfer to Magnum pump – because the return hose inlet will be in different direction (clock position) – and to replace those can seals to reduce a very possible pump leak.
That pump is a good design – but after 20 years or so, those O-rings just give out.
BudW
