Power window "slipping"

[69-]

My 79 LeBaron yesterday showed some problem with the power window.

While smoking (yeah-yeah, just yank about it ), I always open it a little bit to keep smoke out. Works fine so far. Yesterday, the window did not close properly while driving. After returning home, I checked the situation:
* it closes to proper up position, if the door is open, BUT
* I could hear the motor turning even after reaching the up position and
* current draw by the window motor did not "dim" the lights (while engine off) as it does if the motor is "blocked" after reaching the up position.

SO, I suspect the motor to be just fine, but the gear (that plastic-metal thing) might not be properly fit/broke/slip.

Before removing the door panel and all, I'd just like to confirm my thoughts so I can order the right replacement part
More Information for ACI 87433, which I consider quite cheap (even considering shipping and duties) to keep smpking while driving.

 

[Aspen500]

Chances are, you are on the right track. The plastic gear is most likely stripped enough that it slips.

 

[MiradaMegacab]

Might just be the clutch.

How to rebuild Chrysler Power Window motor clutch assembly

 

[Aspen500]

I think that's what the kit is with the plastic/metal gear. From the photo's on Rock Auto, it looks like the gear and the metal part under the gear with the "pucks", and a new clutch cover are included..

 

[69-]

Yeah, the link for the other thread was a real good one, thanks for that. Did not find that while searching.

 

[Ele115]

Back when I was doing those constantly in multiple makes, I had a stick of 9/16" nylon rod that I cut the round cylindrical pieces for. It cost only labor to do these. Ford used these and some GM too. A 6 foot stick last a long time. You just cut them a little shorter than 3/4" and you need 3 for each window motor and some grease. Sometimes you find it easier to use a rubber band to hold them to onto the center for assembly so they don't pop off.

 

[Mikes5thAve]

It's almost akeays those round things that break up and everything else is fine. But it's usually dried up grease on the track parts that makes the window harder to move that causes them to break to begin with. But that's their job to take the damage instead of wrecking the motor or gears.

 

[LSM360]

Chances are, you are on the right track. The plastic gear is most likely stripped enough that it slips.

View attachment 45783

Yes, this package and hopefully the bushings come with the package. I don't see them but probably included. What you described sounds like the gear, and the bushings should be replaced too and tracks cleaned and regreased as suggested while you are already in there.

 

[LSM360]

You can see bushings in this pic (hopefully)

 

[69-]

So, today I had the opportunity to fix it. It was as expected, the nylon bushings were "gone". Cleaned it all up, new gear (said set) plus all and a lot of grease, works fine. *thumbs up* for your help and the links.
I had to remove a couple more parts to get the door panel off (light, upper trim) and there was a rubber piece along the lower end of the door - is that original? Have no pic at the moment. The shield between door and panel -> of course put in place again.
Had no butyl line available, so fixed the splash shield with some tape for now; will open the door again when it's warmer outside and then do the passenger side as well.

 

[Aspen500]

Yes, the rubber "flap" is original. My Aspen door panels have it also. The original base Sunrise interior didn't have them, the deluxe (Premier?) interior in there now, does.

 

[69-]

Thanks, Aspen500, good to know. Will clean it up over winter, open up the lower part to put it in again. Should not be a big deal. Any particular order with all those shield, flap, panel? I'd think door-shield-flap-panel, right?

Just found it in the parts book: secondary sound seal. It doesn't state about "between what else"...

Will fix it, when warm outside again (the snow will dampen any outside sound anyway).

 

[LSM360]

You jinxed me. My driver's window gear started slipping this morning. I can tell missing teeth in gear. Fortunately I have spare kit at home with bushings and all. My AHB has those lower rubberish strips along the bottom too btw.

 

[69-]

I am so sorry that my real-remote witchcraft still had that power to break teeth.
Although, I just tried to whish everone a merry christmas...

 

[LSM360]

I am so sorry that my real-remote witchcraft still had that power to break teeth.
Although, I just tried to whish everone a merry christmas...

LOL

 

[Aspen500]

Assuming the sound seal attaches the same on F and M body, it goes between the door panel and water shield. Hooks over the retaining clips on the panel. I had a fit getting the door panel on while keeping the seal in place, so I used a few spots of adhesive as an assembly aid. Long way of saying yes, water shield-flap-panel.

Doesn't look like much but, it's amazing what a difference that strip of rubber makes.

 

[Mikes5thAve]

Usually it fits tight enough over the door panel clips that only the ends come loose. Some GM's had those rubber strips too at the time.

 

[69-]

Global Warming coming with approx. 60°F today (but locally, we're very close to 30-year averages in 2021).

Anyway. Re-did the splash-shield with a butyl-line and fixed cracks in the plastic. Also corrected the routing of the wires through the correct hole. And I put the secondary sound seal in place (the rubberish part at the lower door end) - what a difference in "street sound"! Amazing.
The brownish glibberish on the splash shield is conserving stuff put into the door. That one will not rust.

And on a side note, I'm working on a '88 LTD Crown Vic (for my niece) - the rear door window motors had the exact same problem: window not moving, but motor turning. Turns out, that it's exactly the same thing inside that motor. Didn't compare both parts, but it looks interchangeable (second pic)
Only difference: The ford part on the rear passenger window was only 33yrs old, while the LeBaron driver side held up 42 years. And the LeBaron is w/o AC while the LTD ran in Arizona and had AC. Assuming that the driver side in the LeBaron was used much more than the LTD's rear window. Further, the door panel of the LTD has to be drilled in three locations to remove the window motor, while the LeBaron has no need for metal works....

Ford LTD CV's window gear...

 

[Aspen500]

At least they put dimples where the holes need to be drilled on the Ford so you don't have to guess. With plastic window parts, it's not so much the amount of use, just the age and, Arizona will deteriorate plastic a lot faster than "up north", even parts that never see sunlight. Of course, seldom or never used is worse than used frequently sometimes.

You're right about the rubber flap. Almost doesn't seem like it would do anything for sound, but it makes a big difference.

 

[Mr C]

From my experience the Ford pucks are longer and not a drop in replacement for the Mopar...they'd need to be ground down.