Power window "slipping"
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- Start date
LSM360
Well-Known Member
I still haven't pulled my door panel yet. Before I do, anyone remember how long of a stick I need to hold window in up position? I'd like to be prepared before I start. I don't have an adjustable tool for the job. I usually find a stick around the garage or cut something to size and haven't done this job in awhile and have forgotten. Thanks.
Mikes5thAve
Well-Known Member
I always jamb something thru one of the holes in the door to hold it up.
LSM360
Well-Known Member
Okay thanks. I can probably be ready to cut something. Just thought it would be extra nice to already have it sized so I could get job done even quicker. Thanks again.
Aspen500
Well-Known Member
At work we use the green 3M masking tape. Stick a couple strips to the inside, wrap over the frame and then to the outside of the glass to hold the window shut while working on window regulators. Do not use duct tape however. It will work of course, but then you need to spend all sorts of time getting the glue off. No, I've never done it, 
customers have at home before they bring it in to be repaired.
customers have at home before they bring it in to be repaired.
LSM360
Well-Known Member
I might use that thanks! Btw, goo gone or WD40 usually will take that residue from duct tape off in a snapAt work we use the green 3M masking tape. Stick a couple strips to the inside, wrap over the frame and then to the outside of the glass to hold the window shut while working on window regulators. Do not use duct tape however. It will work of course, but then you need to spend all sorts of time getting the glue off. No, I've never done it,
Had to get back to the sucker.
Lately (in May), the power window missed the last inch up. Only with "helping" hand the window'll go all up (driver side).
First things first - test the power window switch - it's allright, does what it should. Good.
Applying power directly to the motor - only works, if you kindly hammer on the motor or if you push/pull the window by hand. So, it is likely that its an issue with the contacts inside the motor. Phew...
Again, door apart, motor removed. Wow, it's an "American Bosch" with date code "8 10 78".
Pulled that motor apart - aside of some rusty rubbish on one contact and of course lots of remains of the contacts, looked good. But one of the two contacts was not really up to the job "push to rotor for contact".
Getting the rotor off to see that one of the springs behind the contacts was rusted away halfway... Oh my...
But easy solution: take the spring of an oldschool ballpen, cut in half - and there you have your two new springs for the contacts.
Cleaned it all up a little, put it back together, don't forget to put a good drop of grease in the the lower "bearing" [which is no bearing, but better have it greased], add some more grease to the old gaskets (if you have no new) because the motor is on the water side of the door), and the motor runs again as new.
A little bit too fast too clean - remains of the original "American Bosch" "8 10 78"
Mostly cleaned already. Down in the dark hole in the middle a little grease goes.
Good to see the protection unit.
The longer spring was fine and ok. The shorter spring was the remains of the other one. Disintegrated to nasty rusty rubbish inside. So, no good contact possible anymore.
Rotor with contacts, also mostly cleaned already. But what should go wrong with this sturdy motor rotor.
Original spring below, half ballpen-spring above. I put it in that the upper end of the ballpen-spring is pointing to the contact. This way I avoid the sharp tip (cut) to work its way into the contact...
Back together. Easy to work on if everything is open. Whoever has reman'd a starter motor knows, that you'll need a special tool to get rotor and contacts back together (did that years ago with my Charger's starter). Here, no special tools necessary (aside the usual patience and a small screwdriver).
Lately (in May), the power window missed the last inch up. Only with "helping" hand the window'll go all up (driver side).
First things first - test the power window switch - it's allright, does what it should. Good.
Applying power directly to the motor - only works, if you kindly hammer on the motor or if you push/pull the window by hand. So, it is likely that its an issue with the contacts inside the motor. Phew...
Again, door apart, motor removed. Wow, it's an "American Bosch" with date code "8 10 78"
.Pulled that motor apart - aside of some rusty rubbish on one contact and of course lots of remains of the contacts, looked good. But one of the two contacts was not really up to the job "push to rotor for contact".
Getting the rotor off to see that one of the springs behind the contacts was rusted away halfway... Oh my...
But easy solution: take the spring of an oldschool ballpen, cut in half - and there you have your two new springs for the contacts.
Cleaned it all up a little, put it back together, don't forget to put a good drop of grease in the the lower "bearing" [which is no bearing, but better have it greased], add some more grease to the old gaskets (if you have no new) because the motor is on the water side of the door), and the motor runs again as new.
A little bit too fast too clean - remains of the original "American Bosch" "8 10 78"
Mostly cleaned already. Down in the dark hole in the middle a little grease goes.
Good to see the protection unit.
The longer spring was fine and ok. The shorter spring was the remains of the other one. Disintegrated to nasty rusty rubbish inside. So, no good contact possible anymore.
Rotor with contacts, also mostly cleaned already. But what should go wrong with this sturdy motor rotor.
Original spring below, half ballpen-spring above. I put it in that the upper end of the ballpen-spring is pointing to the contact. This way I avoid the sharp tip (cut) to work its way into the contact...
Back together. Easy to work on if everything is open. Whoever has reman'd a starter motor knows, that you'll need a special tool to get rotor and contacts back together (did that years ago with my Charger's starter). Here, no special tools necessary (aside the usual patience and a small screwdriver).
