Progress, 1 step forward is 2 steps back.

[MY3033]

This thread will be for me to document progress I make at putting my Aspen back on the road after sitting since 1994.

For those of you who didn’t see my Aspen when I joined the board let me catch you up to speed. 76 Aspen Custom Coupe. Power steering, power brake, cruise, ac, fender turn signals, fold down rear seat, light package, and CA emissions. All that on top of being an early build (11/75). Parked in 94 after being “messed with” due to being part of a marital affair, reference my welcome wagon thread for that story.
Anyway, finally got some work done on it. Full ignition system tune up, rebuilt the BBD carb, fresh fluids, and messed with the brakes.
I put new shoes and hardware in the rear along with new wheel cylinders. The old shoes were paper thin, probably original from 76. The front brakes actually seemed to be in great shape. I bought new pads and calipers in case, but the old pads have MORE material than the brand new ones, so I left them alone.
Replaced the master cylinder as is was seized up. Bench bled and installed. I fought the bleeding process all day, but didn’t really get anywhere. I have good pedal feel, but only get fluid to the driver front. All three other are dry. Am I missing something? I’m not even getting any fluid to the others. Is it something with that junction right below the master? I’ve never had just one wheel be able to get bled. I put all new rubber hoses on as well. There was brake fluid at both rears when I removed the old wheel cylinders, so am i maybe fighting clogged steel lines? I’m a wits end with that debacle…

Anyway, I was able to confirm all the electrical seems to work, interior and exterior! I also decided to hand buff and was the paint (or what’s left of it), and it actually shines pretty good. I even go into the trunk and found all the original jack and tools, as well as the owners manual and the original plastic battery cover (never seen on that was still in one piece until today!)
Also figured i should mention how SOLID this car is underneath, frame rails look new and there is still lots of undercoating left and no soft areas. I’m really starting to like this car, now if i could only get it running long enough to drive it. I probably won’t drive it this year or even until next summer. Winter is showing its teeth now, and I don’t want to work outside.
Things I noticed: this thing had good maintenance in until it got parked. The carb definitely had been rebuilt soon before it got parked, hell it looked new inside. Even the accelerator pump was good. Front brakes were also done right before, as well as it had fresh oil in it. I found the mileage written on the old filter, only about 40 miles before it got parked, and with how clean the oil was, I believe it. Air filter had the same mileage, but didn’t fare well over 30 years. It also appears all the steel fuel lines were done prior to being parked. That guy took good care of this Aspen, and I will too. Not many of us young guns that appreciate stuff like this.

 

[AMC Diplomat]

This thread will be for me to document progress I make at putting my Aspen back on the road after sitting since 1994.

For those of you who didn’t see my Aspen when I joined the board let me catch you up to speed. 76 Aspen Custom Coupe. Power steering, power brake, cruise, ac, fender turn signals, fold down rear seat, light package, and CA emissions. All that on top of being an early build (11/75). Parked in 94 after being “messed with” due to being part of a marital affair, reference my welcome wagon thread for that story.
Anyway, finally got some work done on it. Full ignition system tune up, rebuilt the BBD carb, fresh fluids, and messed with the brakes.
I put new shoes and hardware in the rear along with new wheel cylinders. The old shoes were paper thin, probably original from 76. The front brakes actually seemed to be in great shape. I bought new pads and calipers in case, but the old pads have MORE material than the brand new ones, so I left them alone.
Replaced the master cylinder as is was seized up. Bench bled and installed. I fought the bleeding process all day, but didn’t really get anywhere. I have good pedal feel, but only get fluid to the driver front. All three other are dry. Am I missing something? I’m not even getting any fluid to the others. Is it something with that junction right below the master? I’ve never had just one wheel be able to get bled. I put all new rubber hoses on as well. There was brake fluid at both rears when I removed the old wheel cylinders, so am i maybe fighting clogged steel lines? I’m a wits end with that debacle…

Anyway, I was able to confirm all the electrical seems to work, interior and exterior! I also decided to hand buff and was the paint (or what’s left of it), and it actually shines pretty good. I even go into the trunk and found all the original jack and tools, as well as the owners manual and the original plastic battery cover (never seen on that was still in one piece until today!)
Also figured i should mention how SOLID this car is underneath, frame rails look new and there is still lots of undercoating left and no soft areas. I’m really starting to like this car, now if i could only get it running long enough to drive it. I probably won’t drive it this year or even until next summer. Winter is showing its teeth now, and I don’t want to work outside.
Things I noticed: this thing had good maintenance in until it got parked. The carb definitely had been rebuilt soon before it got parked, hell it looked new inside. Even the accelerator pump was good. Front brakes were also done right before, as well as it had fresh oil in it. I found the mileage written on the old filter, only about 40 miles before it got parked, and with how clean the oil was, I believe it. Air filter had the same mileage, but didn’t fare well over 30 years. It also appears all the steel fuel lines were done prior to being parked. That guy took good care of this Aspen, and I will too. Not many of us young guns that appreciate stuff like this.View attachment 51444View attachment 51445View attachment 51446View attachment 51447View attachment 51448View attachment 51449View attachment 51450View attachment 51451View attachment 51452

The block below the master cylinder is a proportioning valve

They can clog up pretty bad. I've had limited success cleaning them out.

 

[MY3033]

The block below the master cylinder is a proportioning valve

They can clog up pretty bad. I've had limited success cleaning them out.

Guess I better start looking for a new one. Hopefully all the lines come loose from it easily, I had good luck with all the other lines. But I have a feeling I’ll get to the last one and my luck will run out.

 

[M_Body_Coupe]

For what it's worth, take a look at this Proportioning Valve Assembly diagram, source is a 1980 FSM.

You could tell if that's stuck by checking the pressure at each output port...but that would require you to disconnect the lines and actually attach the pressure tester...or you could just hook that up at the caliper I suppose?

Anyways, sounds like something in there may be stuck...

 

[MY3033]

So what is that “valve stem” for? The rest of it makes sense, but that one part doesn’t.

 

[AMC Diplomat]

So what is that “valve stem” for? The rest of it makes sense, but that one part doesn’t.

it's a plunger that if you have someone pull on it while you work the brake pedal, you might get the brake warning light to go off

You can try and see if pulling on it while someone stomps on the brakes gets it freed up. Probably won't though so don't get your hopes up

 

[AMC Diplomat]

Went through my parts books, looks like the M bodies used one kind of valve and there were multiple options for F bodies. Someone more knowledgeable than me would know if they're all interchangeable

83

1980

1988

Arizona parts actually has one for police:
Parts

Someone else here would know if you can use that one

 

[MY3033]

Went through my parts books, looks like the M bodies used one kind of valve and there were multiple options for F bodies. Someone more knowledgeable than me would know if they're all interchangeable

83
View attachment 51473
1980
View attachment 51470View attachment 51471
1988
View attachment 51472
Arizona parts actually has one for police:
Parts

Someone else here would know if you can use that one

Would saying its front disc, rear drum help narrow it down? It has the 10” drums.

 

[AMC Diplomat]

Would saying its front disc, rear drum help narrow it down? It has the 10” drums.

They're all front disc, rear drum
The question is are they all interchangeable or could you use the police one?

Or if there's a generic aftermarket option out there?

That's all beyond me. I don't know. I'm still learning the whole mopar thing

Calling @Aspen500 @Mikes5thAve @volare 1977

 

[M_Body_Coupe]

...The question is are they all interchangeable or could you use the police one?...

So I was under the impression that all fleet vehicles came equipped with the larger 11" drums, therefore, the proportioning valve was also different. After all, the larger drums would require different pressure (less I think) to activate them and generate an equivalent amount of stopping force as the smaller 10" drum would.

I do recall reading here and there that under extreme braking conditions the large 11" drums, when used with civilian prop valve, would lock up sooner than the fronts, which could create an unsafe condition.

 

[Mikes5thAve]

I would guess the difference is from brake size. But there are people who've changed to the 11" brakes and never had a problem.

 

[volare 1977]

76-79 volare should be 4094131 the 4026609 is wagon and another number for taxi Pretty sure the 76 was brass and the later ones were cast but I have been wrong before

 

[AMC Diplomat]

For the ultimate in Chinesium
https://www.ebay.com/itm/145235448354?

 

[MY3033]

For the ultimate in Chinesium
https://www.ebay.com/itm/145235448354?

That valve looks like it would disintegrate almost immediately. Hopefully I can clean up my old one.

 

[Remow2112]

Don't get the aluminum one! We did a 70 Dart for a buddy of mine and tried 3. The rear brake port has the threads cut at an angle and the brake line will not seal properly. 2 were new production and the last one was over 15 years old and bought for a different project. Try the brass one!

 

[80mirada]

Amen, I got a brass one for a Chevelle

 

[MY3033]

Notes taken: buy the brass one.
Also, I found this key chain at a second hand store. Was worth the dollar.

 

[MY3033]

I’ve been away from my classic mopars for a while, sometimes life gets busy. I finally rigged up a fuel system to the car, I wanted to hear it run. Keep in mind I had only briefly heard it fire off once or twice.
It started right up. I got to stick it into gear and see that the transmission has some life! I also figured out my brake system issues!
Called it a day. Next morning I started it, it ran for about 5 seconds and something inside decided to exit the oil pan stage left.. I have blown up a few small blocks over the years, but I’m at a loss of what happened. It had oil pressure, wasn’t hot, had fresh oil, and was at idle. It was a great running 318, not sure what happened. But regardless there is a sizable hole in the oil pan, I didn’t find any parts that came out. And until I pull the engine I can’t get a good enough look into the hole due to it location. Hopefully the block is fine and I can use it later down the road.
Don’t worry, I’m not going to give up. I’ll swap in a magnum engine or possibly grab one of my 318 cores and built a street friendly 340. And I will make sure to include pictures of the engine autopsy.

And to add to it my 360 magnum in my 3rd gen had the water pump seize 100 miles from home today. (Thank god for having great friends who came with a trailer to rescue me!) And I managed to snap the last bolt off inside the timing cover, so got to take it apart further. and my 03 suburban had the fuel pump go out on Friday. If I didn’t have bad luck, I would not have any luck. So my last running vehicle is my 83 d150. The old slant six fired right up after nearly a year of hibernation, and is going back to daily driver status.
Anyways folks sorry for the long post. Keep the wheels down and your head up.

 

[kmccabe56]

The block below the master cylinder is a proportioning valve

They can clog up pretty bad. I've had limited success cleaning them out.

If you can get it off, brake cleaner will work. At some point the valve has moved inside and it thinks you have a leak to the back brakes which explains why there's no fluid to the rear wheels. Not sure why you don't have fluid to the right front.

 

[kmccabe56]

So I was under the impression that all fleet vehicles came equipped with the larger 11" drums, therefore, the proportioning valve was also different. After all, the larger drums would require different pressure (less I think) to activate them and generate an equivalent amount of stopping force as the smaller 10" drum would.

I do recall reading here and there that under extreme braking conditions the large 11" drums, when used with civilian prop valve, would lock up sooner than the fronts, which could create an unsafe condition.

That's QUITE correct. Ask me how I know.......