Rear axle/suspension rebuild

[brotherGood]

Alright fellas..need some guiding here. Just picked up another 8.25, and will be putting that SG into my open 8.25 with 2.9 gears. That'll be going to a shop to have done, as will the suspension rebuild. What all do I need for that suspension? I've got the cop set-up already, just wanna rebuild it and go full poly. Also, where can I get new hangers and shackles?

Thanks

 

[Aspen500]

You can get the shackles pretty much anywhere like NAPA, CARQUEST, Dodge dealer, etc..... If you mean front spring hangers, all I ever see are the extended ones for using SS springs. If you need nice used ones, check with Jim for rust free desert pieces.

 

[Jack Meoff]

X2 for Jim.

 

[Aspen500]

Figured I should clarify. The ones from NAPA (and other places) look EXACTLY the same as ones right from the dealer, if you're worried about having it look original. My guess is, they all come from the same vendor.

If you have oval spring eyes, finding poly might be a problem. I've got round on my car with rubber bushings but did install poly spring isolators. Don't recall off hand where I got them from. Just know they're available.

 

[brotherGood]

How do I know if I've got oval or round? Was it dependant on certain years/leaf packs?

I'm just assuming new hangers/shackles would be advised. A lot of the rust under the car is surface flaking..nothing seems to be rusting through or anything like that. And even then, it's not like that everywhere. I'd just hate to have all this money spent on a rebuilt rear axle, all new poly bushings back there, and everything all cleaned up and painted, get the body and paint done, and first part of the year next year something rusts out and tears the car up, and possibly myself.

 

[MiradaMegacab]

The stock hangers will not need to be replaced.
The stock front leaf spring bushing is always oval.
Now would be a good time to replace your leaf springs, espo springs and things have them.
I would recommend replacing the bottom shock mount U plate, with one from www.autorust.com
Or better yet, eliminate the axle pads and convert to a late 60's shock plate.

 

[brotherGood]

I was back and forth about ditching the iso setup, but at this point, it'll cost more to do so. Plus, I'm not sure how I'd keep the sway bar. Were planning on rearching the leafs..probably should look into that bottom shock plate. Didn't even think about that.

 

[Aspen500]

For information only. I kept the iso-spring setup on my car but with poly isolator pads. New springs came with round front eyes and rubber bushings installed already so kept those also. Anyways, even with the 500" stroker I haven't noticed any problems at all.

What I mean is, there's nothing wrong with the iso-spring design other than possibly the oval spring eye.

 

[brotherGood]

Maybe I thought I was in better shape

 

[Aspen500]

Looking at the pics, I learned something new. Well, looked it up in my '79 parts catalog. At first thought your shackles were bent. I never knew FMJ had different shackles and rear hangers if they had a rear sway bar. They're wider at the top than non sway bar ones. Did a little searching and found only standard shackles that are straight (top and bottom of shackle the same distance apart) and not offset like yours. The upper bushings will also be different for the extra width so I take back my previous statement about shackles being available everywhere.

 

[Aspen500]

From the "who'd a thunk it" dept. Got curious and did a little research. Turns out the rear shackles (w/sway bar) for '76-89 FMJ are the same as the rear shackles of '92-'95 Chrysler T&C and Grand Caravan (p/n 4094060) and the oval front spring eye bushings are also the same number.

Doesn't really help you much as the number is NS1 from Mopar and I didn't see any aftermarket either but thought it was an interesting parts interchange.

 

[brotherGood]

That's strange that they shared with the vans. Rattle trap said he'd only seen em on super coupes and kit cars. Here's a better pic.

 

[brotherGood]

Here's a couple more

Excuse the brake line..gotta redo it anyway since it never got hung up. Thought it did until I got under there..that'd explain the leak.

 

[Aspen500]

It would appear that cars rust in Ohio as bad as they do here in Wisconsin. I don't envy your task.

Worst case is you could get the standard rear spring hangers and then could use the available replacement shackles. In reality, the only difference between the 2 hangers is the length of the tube. Could always be cut down to fit standard shackles if needed.

 

[brotherGood]

Yeah, idk what I was thinking..but I didn't think they were that bad. While it's another excuse for a parts car..who's to say I won't hit the same issue there. I'll go ahead and at least get the axle addressed..adding sure grip. Just really surprised.

 

[Aspen500]

Been mentioned before I know, get in touch with Jim. He may have some nice, 99% rust free parts at a darn reasonable price!

To me, it looks like you will need a torch (and not propane) to heat every nut and bolt. Better yet is one of those magnetic induction heaters. We've got one at work and it's the cat's ass but they aren't cheap ($425+).

Another tool that comes in REAL handy when dealing with rusty fasteners are "turbo" sockets. These things:

 

[brotherGood]

http://thesuspensionking.com/catalog/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=17&products_id=516

Waddya think..these look right?

 

[Aspen500]

They don't look right. The upper end has larger dia bushings and the upper part of the shackle is also larger. Those are for a full size Dodge van, not mini-van. You need ones that fit '92-'95 Caravan/Voyager/T&C. Might go back before '92 also but not sure.

 

[brotherGood]

I'm not finding anything for the vans via rockauto or the zone, however the zone does have under "rare parts" shackles that fit a 78 aspen with the 360-4bbl HP engine...as close to maybe an A38/Kit Car that I can find. However, it also fits a standard civilian model diplomat.

 

[Aspen500]

All the ones I could find say "Not with rear sway bar".