Rear end question

BudW

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I think your attachment is a photo instead of a video (or link to video) - unless there is something up with my computer...
After searching, I did find it - but there was a lot of missing details about the install (like where mounts were purchased, how much were springs moved forward (or rearward) and location of rear spring shackles.

In case you weren't aware, Chrysler did a lot of research on the cars with the '62-64 Max Wedge/early race Hemi cars, and the Super Stock springs were what worked best for these cars. Now for today, it is possible Caltracs or other setups might be better - but that is not where I'm trying to go (a discussion best left in another topic). Also, at the time, the SS spring fit most of the cars that were racing at the time (then).


Screenshot 2022-02-03 214959.png

To make the SS spring to fit '62-63 cars, you need a 1 inch shorter front spring mount - which was available from Direct Connection/Mopar Performance for a long time. To get SS to fit the '64 cars, they used an odd shaped rear spring mount so geometry would still work and a 1 inch longer front spring mount.
I've not looked into how they got SS's into other body styles. I've always liked the '66-70 440 HP/Hemi springs and had '66-70 B-bodies to put 'em in so didn't really look further.


On the rear spring shackle - when car is normally loaded and on the ground the shackle upright (or straps, or what ever term you want to use) should be (more or less) straight up/down. This allows spring travel when that corner is unloaded (going over train tracks, for example) or under heavy load (rebounding from the trip over train tracks). The leaf spring can not shorten or lengthen per se which is reason the shackle location is important.
With the last sentence said, the overall spring length does change (from front mount hole to rear mount hole) when spring is compressed or relaxed.
This talks more about ride harshness in pickups (which is true) but the shackle position still matters
leaf-spring-shackle-angle.jpg


Here are some bad examples of spring shackle angles:
Rear Spring shackle.jpg

This is a pickup with the bed removed - so normal ride height hasn't been met yet. Once you load the pickup, it will push the bottom of shackle more rearward and then the spring has nowhere to go over bumps.
Note: having the shackle the other direction can cause problems as well. Under an unload condition, the front part of shackle will go forward enough that will cause the leaf spring to contact the frame (and become stuck there).

Rear Spring shackle b.jpg

This won't work for an FMJ, but the upper shackle mount has several adjustment holes to work with. Like it currently is, the shackle will contact the spring under a high load condition (hitting ground after jumping train tracks) and might even lead to something breaking.
BudW
 
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So I have an 8.25 suregrip and I would prefer the 8.75 rear end. The measurements between the two for spring perches are as follows j body 44.46" and the 62-70 b body is 44". So my question is is the .46 going to make a difference when bolting up or will they have to be cut off and rewelded to 44.46. I'm new at this so bare with me, thanks for any help!

View attachment 46193
Make sure who ever does it knows their stuff I paid $450 to have mine shortened by a welding shop and now I have a messed up 8 3/4 that is going to go through bearings like crazy
 

Duke5A

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Make sure who ever does it knows their stuff I paid $450 to have mine shortened by a welding shop and now I have a messed up 8 3/4 that is going to go through bearings like crazy
I keep forgetting just how spoiled I have it here in Detroit. There are three competent axle shops within 30m of my house. Lots of people don't have options like this.
 

Aspen500

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Make sure whoever does it has the correct housing alignment tools. Without that, it'll never be straight. Knowing how to use the tool is important also.
 
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