Rear leaf spring "tensioner"??

[prowler]

These factory brackets are for the leaf springs. They have the leaf's top shackle bolt go through them. Without them, there would be nothing to attach the top of the shackle to. Under normal load, the small bar rides across the top portion of the shackles on both sides. It looks to me like the idea of this was to limit shackle movement, forcing more control on the leaf's themselves making for a smother ride.
My next problem is replacing the oval bushings. I thought I was going to be able to tap the old out with punch and hammer. NOPE,..they're in there !! There's a special factory tool (of course) used for install and removal. I looking at making something that'll hopefully work.

 

[Mikes5thAve]

It sounds like you're talking about the normal bracket with the pin through it? Otherwise again we need pics!

When the bushings don't easily slide out they need to be pressed out, cut or burnt. A ball joint type puller should work or maybe being creative with a nut and bolt and socket and a couple big washers.

 

[AMC Diplomat]

It sounds like you're talking about the normal bracket with the pin through it

Beat me to it, I was typing the same thing

 

[prowler]

It sounds like you're talking about the normal bracket with the pin through it? Otherwise again we need pics!

When the bushings don't easily slide out they need to be pressed out, cut or burnt. A ball joint type puller should work or maybe being creative with a nut and bolt and socket and a couple big washers.

Yes,....the problem is, is that these are oval shape. I'm trying to come up with some kind of a donut of sorts, that will ride on
the edge of the bushing. That along with my puller kit may work. I was surprised that I couldn't budge them with a punch and hammer. I wasn't trying to "pound" on them as well.

 

[Camtron]

Threaded rod, fender washers or cut pieces of plate to shape, nuts, piece of pipe and press them out with a wrench and impact driver

 

[Mikes5thAve]

Yes,....the problem is, is that these are oval shape. I'm trying to come up with some kind of a donut of sorts, that will ride on
the edge of the bushing. That along with my puller kit may work. I was surprised that I couldn't budge them with a punch and hammer. I wasn't trying to "pound" on them as well.

Something round still covers enough of those bushings to press or pull them out.
I've never had luck with a hammer. They either come out easily or the rubber absorbs any of the blow. I had one set on mine I forget what hanger it was now but I couldn't get on there to burn it out and pressing it out started destroying the hanger.

 

[80mirada]

I must have used a shop press to get my front bushings out. I don't even remember removing them..... The rear mount has an over travel stop for the shackles, I think they called them tensioners because Chrysler liked to use there own terms

 

[Oldiron440]

Without photos it doesn’t exist, it’s just BS…
You can get pictures or screenshots of anything and post them here so after being asked for several times and no pictures,

I say it’s Bull Shit.

 

[volare 1977]

think he is talking about the metal travel limiting pin in the rear spring hanger mount. I wouldn`t call it a tensioner though

 

[DCAspen]

Mid seventies C bodies had this setup

 

[prowler]

think he is talking about the metal travel limiting pin in the rear spring hanger mount. I wouldn`t call it a tensioner though

Yes I was! They do put "tension" on both sides of the upper shackles when the car is on the ground. It would appear that the factory tool is necessary if you're working on one side opposed to dropping the entire diff.

But here's a real bonus regarding replacing the front oval bushings. No fancy tool(s) necessary. All you need in a large chisel or a pry bar. I used a chisel as follows: The formed oval bushing hole in the leaf is factory curled by a machine that make the oval hole and the correct bushing size as well . The the end of the formed leaf bushing hole leaves a space between the end of the flat bottom of the leaf and the curled hole. I taped the chisel into the space and it slightly spread the bushing hole open slightly enough to allow a couple of blows with ta hammer and out it came !!! Cleaned up the bushing hole (chisel still in place) and with a large rubber mallet tapped in the new oval bushing, tapped out the chisel and all done !!

 

[Mikes5thAve]

They seem to be to stop travel more then anything else. One side or both the springs are removed the same way no special tools necessary.
Oddly the weak link is the oval. Every one I've owned has had them stretch or break. Always the passenger side more then the other.

 

[Oldiron440]

Why is there no photos, I’m truly interested in what the your talking about but I’m having trouble visualizing what you are talking about.
Having worked on a scraped far too many A B C and F/M body mopars and haven’t seen anything like what you are describing.
Post a damn picture.

 

[prowler]

Sorry for no pics. I'm not really up to speed being able to post pics.

Entire assembly back under car. All parking brake cables interchanged between the 7.25 and 8.25. My next needed item
will be the drive shaft. Other than that part wise,.... it's just about a wrap !!

 

[M_Body_Coupe]

For what it's worth, may I suggest it is all about this ROD in the picture...

 

[80mirada]

If I remember right, the whole thing is referred to as the tensioner, in earlier manuals

 

[Oldiron440]

I’ve seen those before just never gave them any thought, how would they be a tensioner?

 

[prowler]

For what it's worth, may I suggest it is all about this ROD in the picture...

View attachment 56149

YES !!!! that is it. That rod contacts the back of each side of the shackle. Rubber bushings insert through the "tube" above the rod as well. The pic is upside down in regards to how it's actually bolted to the upper rail. Thanks for pic !!

 

[M_Body_Coupe]

YES !!!! that is it. That rod contacts the back of each side of the shackle. Rubber bushings insert through the "tube" above the rod as well. The pic is upside down in regards to how it's actually bolted to the upper rail. Thanks for pic !!

So the weird part to me - which is what I have been thinking all along in this thread - is that I have never actually seen a set of F/J/M-body leaf springs that actually extend the shackle back so far that is hits the dead-stop bar!

That would just seem like the leaf spring is too long actually...no?...or perhaps it's lost it's arch so much that when nearly flat it is actually extended that far.

EDIT
====
SCRATCH all of the above, I had my frame mount visually flipped (in my mind)....the rod blocks the rear spring eye from flipping in FRONT of the mount when the suspension is completely unloaded!!! Kind of a 'safety-stop' I would think.