Rear suspension work

Chassis, Suspension and wheels

  1. SixBanger

    SixBanger Well-Known Member

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    I notice that the rear suspension does not offer much more resilience. Rear of the car is somewhat low compared to the front. Even though I have increased the pre-load of the front torsion bars somewhat.
    Not really problems with normal driving.
    But I recently noticed that the original clips on the leaf springs were loose with a stuffed trunk.

    Is it possible to mount an extra set of clamps on the original leaf springs? As being two steel plates clamped by a pair of bolts with double nuts?
    And thinking to do an ISO delete. I have some 4 mm steel plates and long u-bolts.

    Thanks!
     
  2. SixBanger

    SixBanger Well-Known Member

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    Made some drawing of the iso delete setup.

    Knipsel.PNG

    Knipsel 2.PNG
     
  3. Oldiron440

    Oldiron440 Well-Known Member

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    You cant forget the hole for the center bolt in the spring pack, it centers the axle and lower bracket. The lower bracket has the shock mount also. But all these parts could be easily be made.
     
  4. SixBanger

    SixBanger Well-Known Member

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    Thanks Oldiron440. Indeed that still needs to be adjusted. Good point.
     
    Last edited: Jan 26, 2019
  5. 89.Fifth

    89.Fifth Well-Known Member

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    Perhaps consider and adjustable mount for the dampers so that you can use different types or lengths. Manufacturers will publish the length range so that opens up the ability to try different setups.
     
  6. SixBanger

    SixBanger Well-Known Member

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    Interesting option. With different lengths do you mean different dampers? Or that the attachment of a damper can be adjusted and thus the distance traveled by the operation of my current silencer?
     
  7. 89.Fifth

    89.Fifth Well-Known Member

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    Yes to both. Our selection of dampers is limited but other cars have a greater selection available. There are many options in a similar but not exact length range that could work if there was an adjustable lower mounting point. The idea is to use a damper with a different, but compatible operating range and to make up the difference with a mount that can be changed or adjusted.

    Edit: I should say that I have been exploring the idea of building this myself but haven't had the time to do the engineering required.
     
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  8. Duke5A

    Duke5A Well-Known Member

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    Seems like a lot of work when you can just get a pair of factory B body shock plates. I wouldn't be surprised if someone here has a set. As for the springs themselves, just have them re-arched at a spring shop with an additional leaf in the pack.
     
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  9. Aspen500

    Aspen500 Well-Known Member

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    Sixbanger may have a harder time than we do here in North America finding parts, being in The Netherlands. Not being familiar with the country, I could be wrong on that though. Besides, it's always fun to engineer and build things if you have the ability and equipment.
     
  10. Duke5A

    Duke5A Well-Known Member

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    I've shipped to the Netherlands before. A guy on Farley's needed rear quarter glass for a 78 Dippy and I found one in a local yard here while I was window shopping. The yard didn't charge me for it and I sent it out to him for the cost of shipping - I think it came out to $15 USD. That's why I said if there is someone here with the parts it won't be hard to get them. But yeah, forget about salvage yards over there.
     
  11. Oldiron440

    Oldiron440 Well-Known Member

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  12. SixBanger

    SixBanger Well-Known Member

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    Thanks guys. Through my work I have been able to arrange a piece of sheet steel and a number of bolts. And indeed I find it fun to customize or fabricate some parts yourself! But thanks for the link from the Sock plate. Last summer I have already replaced the rear shock absorbers. And have decided to keep them.

    The parts I order mainly directly from USA. There are stores here, but they also order it from the United States. However, I only know a number of sites for parts. And is it searching if I can find the right components. For some parts, the costs are the same or more as the shipping costs. For as ordinary stuff I get to an old employer.
     
  13. SixBanger

    SixBanger Well-Known Member

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    I was thinking I want to make the springs happy again. Is it correct if I can clip the original leaf springs (see blue in the picture)? This with the help of a two plates tightened by a set of bolts?
    At the moment the original clamps are relatively loose and the leaf spring package could move along each other. I wonder if this is correct.

    In addition, I want to apply a thin layer of rubber mat between the plates (show green in the image).

    tractionbar01.jpg
     
  14. Aspen500

    Aspen500 Well-Known Member

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    The clamps are mainly to keep the leaves aligned and prevent excessive spread between them. They should be snug at any rate. What I mean is, clamping the leaves together won't raise the car.
    One of the easiest and least expensive ways to prevent spring wrap and wheel hop on a Mopar is the pinion snubber on top of the differential. You can extend the stock one or buy (or build) an adjustable one. It works like slapper bars but doesn't look obtuse like they do.

    The second illustration is what my original springs looked like before I replaced them with new ones. They were shaped like an "S" permanently.:eek:

    Some examples: Search Results for adjustable pinion snubber
     
    Last edited: Jan 28, 2019
  15. Oldiron440

    Oldiron440 Well-Known Member

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    I've never had luck with the pinion snubber there just to short to be effective. What I have done is to clamp the front half of the spring with two clamps made from 1/4" aluminium plate and 3/8" bolts I also remove the factory straps from the rear of the springs. This makes the front half of the spring very stiff much like a super stock spring and allows the rear to separate and give you body lift and plant the tires. I've done this on Fords and Mopars and it works.
    I first did this to my 440 powered Willy's pickup.
     
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  16. XfbodyX

    XfbodyX Well-Known Member

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    They make nice adjustable pinion snubbers, although kinda dated.

    If ya got a stick or t brake the rubber on the adjustable snubber will still beat the hell out of your floor pan, I welded a 1/8 plate then took a 1/4 thick piece of old rubber mudflap and bolted it to the welded on plate.

    pinion-snubber.jpg
     
  17. Duke5A

    Duke5A Well-Known Member

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    I really do think this thread has gone in the wrong direction. The OP stated that "the rear suspension does not offer much more resilience." Spring wrap and pinion snubbers with a stock /6 and skinny tires is not the issue. Your springs are 40 years old and need to be rebuilt or replaced.
     
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  18. volare 77

    volare 77 Well-Known Member

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    Yea, I was thinking weak springs too.
     
  19. SixBanger

    SixBanger Well-Known Member

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    Thanks guys! Pinion snubbers is new for me. What I make out of videos is that this unit provides a tilt point for your differential? And so that only the differential moves when driving? I can imagine that this is an advantage for drag racers.

    And indeed the springs have had his best time. Thought who knows, it's easy to improve. But look around for a set of leafs.
    The suspension gets a hard time here in the Netherlands. On the way back from work I encounter 35 speed bumps! On the way back I often drive on the country side/suburban area, seen lots of traffic jams on highway, and you also see some of the surroundings.
     
  20. Oldiron440

    Oldiron440 Well-Known Member

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    Sounds like you need a shock like an of road truck needs, a 35 mph speed bump wow.