Rattle Trap
Well-Known Member
I have an involved process, but all is necessary. This is for a coupe. A sedan is slightly more involved.
First remove pass side front seat and duct tape the driver seat release lever in the loose position. You won't be twisting that thing out without one gone and the steering column is in the way of going out the driver side.
Then remove dash top and pad to access the A-pillar trims.
Remove both door frame top steel rails and windshield top bow and finish removing A-pillar trims.
Replace windshield top bow with a single screw loosely on one side hole but not an end hole.
Remove sunvisors. The front half is now hanging on the single loose screw holding the windshield bow, so now go to the rear.
Remove rear seat entirely.
The rear window interior C-pillar plastic side trims are valuable so be careful. Remove top bow and unscrew bottom bow. The bottom bow is going to be gooped in window adhesive and not easily removed. It will break the bottoms off your plastic side trims if not careful. There are between one and three screws in each side trim. Remove all but one left loosely in each. Now get whatever form of pry bars long screwdrivers and hooked knife (I have modified carpet knives especially to have less shank and more hook). Place a roll of 2" masking tap on the package tray with your other tools and remove the last screw from the side trim you'll be working to get first and hold it loosely in one hand while working between tools with the other. Pry on the steel from the top and bottom to loosen for better access. Once you get the steel out a bit on the one side start twisting on it while moving the side trim forward and back with it and cut the goop loose from top and bottom working your way to the center. You may get the side trim loose this way. Or you may need to use the tape to hold it to the rear glass and the rest of the plastic for now while you work on the other side. Repeat on that side but being careful off your other loose side. You need this lower steel piece just out enough to get some ability to pull that first side's tabs from the steel that's hooked around each bottom edge of the plastic. Once you finally get it loosened enough to get one free, you're home free with the other side.
So next order of business, remove the steel clips that are keeping your lower seat belts from retracting beyond the plastic interior quarters. Don't loose those! I hate losing those!
Unscrew the interior quarter coat hooks lower and center screws and pull them forward and get em outa there. So at this point you're only holding the headliner up with the loose front bow, the top front seat belt covers and the dome light. If you're nervous, you can loosely reinstall the rear top steel, but it's got to come out again soon.
Replace each upper door frame steel Loosely with a single screw you can reach from a seated position from the center of car and remove the front outer seat belts entirely, or at least get the tops out of there and drop the rest on the floor.
if this is a very late 78, 79 or later, it will require that you remove the plastic open door locking button mechanisms from the door jambs and feed them up the B-pillars to come out with the retractors. Almost done.
The whole rear section is just dangling behind the dome light. Make sure you've only got a couple threads in the steels now and remove the rear top if you put it in. You want everything loose because you're going to pull the cardboard right out of their support in a moment.
Sit on the transmission hump and finally remove the dome light. Better have the drill driver on the hump right next to you when you do that. Because now you're holding the whole thing up with one hand and while reaching for it. Shoot that screw out of the pass door steel where you're going out from, drop the drill, and grab the headliner with both hands. Slide it back til it clears the front bow.
Move yourself toward your exit and droop it down toward that side so it slips to the right and free of the driver side steel. It's all in your hands at this point.
Crouch down and let it lay on the driver seat while sliding it forward to the dash. Now it's a good thing you duct taped the driver seat release because it's job is done.
Lift the headliner and fold the seat up on the steering wheel for the extra lower room you need to push the headliner up on top of the dash for support while you readjust yourself.
Then swing this deal right out the door. It's approximately 56"x56" so you'll need that front section down at dash height to fit thru the 61" door opening now.
Slide yourself over that rocker feet first and take it out with you.
All done!
Moderator, a light editing was performed for clarity, Moderator
First remove pass side front seat and duct tape the driver seat release lever in the loose position. You won't be twisting that thing out without one gone and the steering column is in the way of going out the driver side.
Then remove dash top and pad to access the A-pillar trims.
Remove both door frame top steel rails and windshield top bow and finish removing A-pillar trims.
Replace windshield top bow with a single screw loosely on one side hole but not an end hole.
Remove sunvisors. The front half is now hanging on the single loose screw holding the windshield bow, so now go to the rear.
Remove rear seat entirely.
The rear window interior C-pillar plastic side trims are valuable so be careful. Remove top bow and unscrew bottom bow. The bottom bow is going to be gooped in window adhesive and not easily removed. It will break the bottoms off your plastic side trims if not careful. There are between one and three screws in each side trim. Remove all but one left loosely in each. Now get whatever form of pry bars long screwdrivers and hooked knife (I have modified carpet knives especially to have less shank and more hook). Place a roll of 2" masking tap on the package tray with your other tools and remove the last screw from the side trim you'll be working to get first and hold it loosely in one hand while working between tools with the other. Pry on the steel from the top and bottom to loosen for better access. Once you get the steel out a bit on the one side start twisting on it while moving the side trim forward and back with it and cut the goop loose from top and bottom working your way to the center. You may get the side trim loose this way. Or you may need to use the tape to hold it to the rear glass and the rest of the plastic for now while you work on the other side. Repeat on that side but being careful off your other loose side. You need this lower steel piece just out enough to get some ability to pull that first side's tabs from the steel that's hooked around each bottom edge of the plastic. Once you finally get it loosened enough to get one free, you're home free with the other side.
So next order of business, remove the steel clips that are keeping your lower seat belts from retracting beyond the plastic interior quarters. Don't loose those! I hate losing those!
Unscrew the interior quarter coat hooks lower and center screws and pull them forward and get em outa there. So at this point you're only holding the headliner up with the loose front bow, the top front seat belt covers and the dome light. If you're nervous, you can loosely reinstall the rear top steel, but it's got to come out again soon.
Replace each upper door frame steel Loosely with a single screw you can reach from a seated position from the center of car and remove the front outer seat belts entirely, or at least get the tops out of there and drop the rest on the floor.
if this is a very late 78, 79 or later, it will require that you remove the plastic open door locking button mechanisms from the door jambs and feed them up the B-pillars to come out with the retractors. Almost done.
The whole rear section is just dangling behind the dome light. Make sure you've only got a couple threads in the steels now and remove the rear top if you put it in. You want everything loose because you're going to pull the cardboard right out of their support in a moment.
Sit on the transmission hump and finally remove the dome light. Better have the drill driver on the hump right next to you when you do that. Because now you're holding the whole thing up with one hand and while reaching for it. Shoot that screw out of the pass door steel where you're going out from, drop the drill, and grab the headliner with both hands. Slide it back til it clears the front bow.
Move yourself toward your exit and droop it down toward that side so it slips to the right and free of the driver side steel. It's all in your hands at this point.
Crouch down and let it lay on the driver seat while sliding it forward to the dash. Now it's a good thing you duct taped the driver seat release because it's job is done.
Lift the headliner and fold the seat up on the steering wheel for the extra lower room you need to push the headliner up on top of the dash for support while you readjust yourself.
Then swing this deal right out the door. It's approximately 56"x56" so you'll need that front section down at dash height to fit thru the 61" door opening now.
Slide yourself over that rocker feet first and take it out with you.
All done!
Moderator, a light editing was performed for clarity, Moderator
Last edited by a moderator: