Same question one more time

MiradaMegacab

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I guess your shaft will work (LOL) as TTI doesn’t list a modified shaft for FMJ applications.
 

Duke5A

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Cam is pretty high lift 575/575, mopar purple..so what you are saying I’m going to turn a nicely put together set up for an engine and choke it out completely, not good…didn’t think the manifolds would kill it that bad, ok convinced that the header route is the only way to go..guys, thanks for your input, I’ll be posting and needing advice throughout this project..very much appreciated…thanks, Jim..

Do you have the cam card for that? I can't find anything online in the purple shaft cam listings. That is higher lift than my roller cam. What is the rest car? Gears, torque conveter, etc.
 

Dodge Aspen R/T 318

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1978 dodge aspen, 8.75/391 gears,727/9 inch converter 3500 stall,10:5:1 comp,Ross forged pistons,eagle h beam rods,was holley 830 now 800 edel avs2,mopar m1 intake,crane roller rockers, cam mopar purple shaft number 4120655
 

LSM360

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I agree TTI has them for F body as others wrote. And they fit my M body great which is very similar.

4.
1-5/8 x 1-3/4" FULL-LENGTH STEP HEADERS, 3.0" collectorsHEADER NO. 340
• Applications: 67-76 A-body, 62-79 B-body, 70-74 E-body, 76-80 F-body, 77-88 M-body
• A/LA-Engines: 318, 340, 360, 402 crate, 408 Magnum crate, 440 Super commando crate
• Cylinder Heads: OEM or Equivalent - Edelbrock Performer RPM, Indy-TA, Mopar Perf Alum, Mopar Perf cast-iron, RHS-Indy360X, Trick Flow
 

Dodge Aspen R/T 318

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LSM360,great info! Was ready to bolt on the exhaust manifolds which honestly I didn’t mind doing to simplify things but when a few of the guys here on the forum commented that my 400 horse engine could lose up to a 100 horsepower and would choke out my engine badly I had second thoughts about the manifolds, I didn’t think they would restrict the flow that bad but on a 400 horse engine it evidently will,so headers it is..great info and thank you very much, Jim…
 

M_Body_Coupe

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1978 dodge aspen, 8.75/391 gears,727/9 inch converter 3500 stall,10:5:1 comp,Ross forged pistons,eagle h beam rods,was holley 830 now 800 edel avs2,mopar m1 intake,crane roller rockers, cam mopar purple shaft number 4120655
That appears to be a pretty "healthy" combo...a def "no-no" as far as trying to choke it with some factory exhaust manifolds.

Duke mentioned that the Hooker #5901s will require some careful driving, and I agree. Having said that, I used them in my coupe for nearly 7 summers of spirited driving (fun, but not abusive) and never ended up with ANY contact.

Again...drive with care and you'll be fine.

TTIs of course will be the more flexible choice, but you'll pay the $$$ for that. If that's in the budget, then yeah, probably the better choice.
 

Dodge Aspen R/T 318

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hey M_Body_Coupe, Jim here, I defiantly want to save some money on the headers, I would rather not spend mucho dollars if not needed..will the Hooker 5901s clear all obstacles such as the starter, streering column, and any other things that are in the way that can interfeer,I can defiantly drive the car with care on the crappy roads for sure..the 360 is going in this new week and I have no headers yet and I wanted to make sure what ever brand I buy that they will clear all obstacles, if the 5901s can do this I will buy them, I have to make a move quick..78 Aspen, column shift, 727 auto…Please let me know..
 

M_Body_Coupe

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...will the Hooker 5901s clear all obstacles such as the starter, streering column, and any other things that are in the way that can interfeer...if the 5901s can do this I will buy them, I have to make a move quick..78 Aspen, column shift, 727 auto…Please let me know..
Take a look at the attached Installation Instructions.

The column shift provision requires an adjustment to the bracket, see step #9 in the "LEFT SIDE" instructions section.

Having said that...years ago my first pair of headers (well, new ones that is..LOL) were the Headman #78050 pipes...I do recall having to screw-around with that linkage but I most certainly did NOT have to cut and weld.

Again, this is years ago, we are talking at least 25, but most certianly NO welding, a different manufacturer though. Although all the F/M/J-body headers pretty much follow the same setup (the ones that have the centerlink go through them).

Wish I could give you a better guarantee, but in my opionion anyone looking at jumping into the aftermarket parts bin should really consider the move to Lokar style cable setups anyways.

Wish you were here and looking for this about a year ago as I had a NEW pair of Headmans sitting here and I kid you not, no one wanted them...I let them go for like $150 CAD I think!
 

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Dodge Aspen R/T 318

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This is my first mopar so I’m learning a lot in a very short period of time..one thing I can honestly say is all of my questions have been answered in a snap of a finger and your all a good bunch of guys with years of good advice..I will have many more questions for sure and I thank you all..Jim..
 

LSM360

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They are expensive but you really get what you pay for. Great quality and long term leak free flanges. I HIGHLY recommend Remflex gaskets. Very nice crush quality and seal super nice!
 

Buck Atwater

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I used the cheapo Heddman 78050 headers on mine. They fit fine, no bashing of tubes or inner fenders needed. Though one of the pipes does come close to the inner fender on the passenger side. You have to remove the transmission brace on the passenger side too. The instructions mentioned about the modifications for column shift as well, but that must be an A body thing because it didn't come close on my Mirada when I had the 727 in it.
 

LSM360

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May want to ask yourself if you ever plan on Firmfeels Fast Ratio Pitman Arm and whether your headers will work with this. I know my TTI's do.
 
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