It is not hard to replace the two Right side mounts, with K-frame in car. The two Left side mounts are a bit more difficult – because of the steering gear is still attached to steering column. When the K-frame is unbolted, the steering column will only allow a small bit of movement downwards – less so for the Left Rear mount. A person can then take a saw (hacksaw, Sawsall, etc.) and cut the old rubber.metal mount one out, but it will still be difficult to get new mount in. Sense the engine is already out, I would recommend to either disconnecting the steering column at the rag joint (black rubber donut looking item) – which is not easy to do, or unbolt the steering gear from K-frame (and find a way to support the gear – which is easier).
On the later method, measure the distance between the fender wells. Screw a couple pieces of 2x4” scraps onto the ends and place your bridge on those fender rails. The exact location is not a major issue. Then take a ratcheting tie-down strap (or something) to support the weight of the steering gear up a bit, then the K-frame will come down enough to remove the Left side mounts after you remove the three steering gear to K-frame bolts.
Orange is location of 2x4's and green is tie-down strap.
I've read that some people end up having to disconnect the upper control arms to do this job,
This does have to happen because the upper control arm brackets (Chrysler calls them “Support Brackets”) are in the way of the frame rails.
If you loosened the torsion bars several turns (do this first to come out and last when back together), I remove the four screws (and upper shock nut) that attach the upper control arm bracket (Support Bracket) to the K-frame – that way the alignment is not going to be way off. If you remember exactly how many turns you loosened both torsion bars, then your alignment will be exactly the same as it was before you began.
With that said, it is always good to check the ride height afterwards and get car aligned afterwards, anyway.
To me, removing those large upper control arm bolts (to Support Brackets) are a burden and time consuming, where as the 4 bolts (and upper shock nut) are not too bad and just bypass the other.
The shock nuts are a different matter. If rusty, it might be faster to break off the upper/lower shock ends or cut 'em off then to unscrew 'em. Aspen 500 has mentioned taking a deep socket (9/16", maybe) and a long extension. Put the deep socket over either front shock nut, then move back/forth and the stud will break off after a bit of work.
Note: Not counting rust, this would be an excellent time to install new shocks . . .
If you plan on rebuilding the front suspension, Then I would recommend to remove the entire K-frame from car. Give everything a good coat of paint and stick it back under the car when done. This is one I removed from an '84 Gran Fury.
I loosened both torsion bars (10 turns, maybe - I can't remember), removed the upper control arm plates (as mentioned above) but still attached to spindles. I placed a floor jack under K-frame (which still held the engine and transmission in place). Raised the front of car up a few feet. Re-bolted the upper control arm brackets onto K-frame, then reattached tires to brake rotors. Then rolled the K-frame/engine/transmission out from under the car. At this point, I still had to have a floor jack under the transmission to roll it around.
The above picture of that front suspension, after I removed the engine/transmission. I just rolled the entire suspension outside, until I could work on it.
When I get ready to install the big block(s) into my cars, I will make a Jig so transmission can be supported a bit better. Dropping the front of car down over engine/K-frame is SO MUCH easier than dropping engine down from above - especially if headers are being used.
This is not an FMJ, but you get the picture.
BudW