Subframe swap help please

MICRO

MICRO

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I have a 1988 plymouth caravelle 318 car and a 1985 Chrysler 5th ave 318. Can the subframe from 5th ave direct bolt onto the caravelle without any major issues due to year difference and trim packages? Im building this car for my young fella and want to have him help.any info would be awesome. Thanks guys and sorry for posting this in the website help page first haha

20200523_184758.jpg
 
As long as both cars are V-8, direct bolt in. Any subframe from '76-'89 will interchange between any F, M or J body. Only thing different is a S6 has different engine mount brackets than a V-8. With Shumacher engine swap mounts you can bolt a V-8 onto a S6 subframe (just an FYI)
 
Man your a lifesaver. Thank you for helping put another Plymouth back on the road.
Aspen500 said:
As long as both cars are V-8, direct bolt in. Any subframe from '76-'89 will interchange between any F, M or J body. Only thing different is a S6 has different engine mount brackets than a V-8. With Shumacher engine swap mounts you can bolt a V-8 onto a S6 subframe (just an FYI)
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Yep, he's correct. I put a subframe from '88 Gran Fury AHB into '80 Aspen A38 and it was direct bolt in. GF was 318 and Aspen 360.
 
Im going to start the swap this Thursday/friday. Hopefully all goes smooth. Ill keep you guys updated. Thanks again for the help. Let me know of any tips to make it easier haha
 
Let's hope rust isn't an issue with the mounting bolts!
If you're not aware of it, you will need to unbolt the upper control arm brackets from the subframe to clear the frame rails. Either remove the nuts on the T-bolts for the control arm shafts or disconnect the upper ball joints to access the bracket bolts.
 
Drill a 3/16” hole thru the frame rail at each one of the 4 K Frame attaching bolts. Spray RustBuster twice a day for a week in there to soak the bolts threads and to avoid having the “captured nut” strip and spin inside the frame rail...
 
Good advice Mega. There's few things more frustrating than having a weld nut break loose inside a frame rail or something similar. Have had it happen WAY too many times at work with front subframe bolts when I'm lowering the powertrain out for repair. Bolt comes part way out and then,,,,,,,,,,,,spins. Next words out of my mouth are "oh darn" lol.
 
Haha. Im defiantly in the rust belt. I dont have rustbuster but have magic stuff called Kroil. Its really good for rusty bolts. We use it at the refinery alot. Thank you all for the ideas. Ill show u a pic of the old frame when we pull it out
 
Kroil is awesome! Best penetrant I've ever used. Added bonus, it smells good too.

Downside is, it's hard to find. Nobody seems to carry it around here. I order it right from Kano Labs themselves.
 
Tell ya what . Ill trade you a can o kroil for k frame mounts haha. They are discontinued and do not exist in my neck of the woods. Anyone know where they can be bought aftermarket? Any help would be appreciated
 
Stock type don't exist anywhere. You can use poly mounts (I got mine from ESPO Springs 'n Things, great people there) or solid aluminum from Firm Feel. The poly ones can also be had from other places even though they may not list them for F-body, they're the same as '73 and up B body. Call ESPO though, you'll be glad you did.

I'm on lunch at work but if I had the time, I post links for you but luch is over, time to get back to work.:cool:
 
Aspen500 said:
Stock type don't exist anywhere. You can use poly mounts (I got mine from ESPO Springs 'n Things, great people there) or solid aluminum from Firm Feel. The poly ones can also be had from other places even though they may not list them for F-body, they're the same as '73 and up B body. Call ESPO though, you'll be glad you did.

I'm on lunch at work but if I had the time, I post links for you but luch is over, time to get back to work.:cool:
Click to expand...
Thank you. Im on it enjoy your dinner.
 
Some may disagree but, for a daily driver type car, I'd stick with the poly mounts vs solid. Poly still gives you some noise, vibration and harshness isolation while improving handling over stock rubber.
 
Heres some updated photos of donor subframe
20200601_144709.jpg

all painted up with Por15 rustproofing paint. Ordered bushings off of ebay (thanks guys) and am waiting on the ups truck to drop off the goodies
 
Looking good Micro!!! POR-15 is great stuff. Replacing the stock mounts with solid aluminum mounts was the single best suspension upgrade I've ever done. It DID NOT create too much vibration or harshness in any way. What it did do was eliminate shudder and sloppiness at high speeds.
 
Mopar Performance made cast iron replacements, back in the day – but they haven't been for sale for decades.

Urethane, aluminum or cast iron are all excellent and will give you a lifetime of trouble free performance (except for the possibility of the welded-in frame nuts).
I think the urethane ones might be the most cost effective.
I have an aluminum set from FFI. Quality pieces – but expensive. I still need another set – so not sure what I'll do when the time comes for that operation.
BudW
 
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