I have a set of FFI aluminum mounts – but they were a bit pricy. I need to get a 2nd set from somewhere (else) for my other car.
My ’77 Wagon has been in a garage most of its life – but even still, I can feel the 40 year old K-Frame to Frame rubber bushings give a lot during an abrupt or sharp turn – for it takes a couple of seconds or moments before the car starts to turn (before tires start protesting), and I know it is those bushings giving a lot - before doing anything.
My ’86 5th Ave steering gear leaks bad and is very loose (I have a TTI rebuilt gear ready to install into car) so I don’t have anything to compare with as far as how it takes abrupt sharp turns.
I will be performing a similar job as yours – but for a different reason.
I have an ’84 Gran Fury police car complete K-frame at home. My plan for it is to take K-frame/suspension apart, weld up and brace the K-Frame really well, get cleaned up and powder coated.
I also have plans on installing LCA (Lower Control Arm) braces:
Rebuild the front suspension, while painting or powder coating those parts, as well.
I’m planning on installing a rear sway bar – which means I need to install a larger front sway bar to compensate. Once done, I’m then dropping my big block engine and transmission onto the K-frame on a special built dolly.
On another special built dolly, I’m going to drop the K-frame with existing 318/999 down (actually, will be raising the car body up), wheel one assembly out from under car, wheel other assembly under the car and drop car body back down over the new engine combo – using aluminum K-Frame mounts in the process.
Repeat process for my other car.
Note: it takes more than that to install a big block into an FMJ body, but was giving an overview on what my plans are. I’m also in the parts gathering process (and have more to gather).
BudW