temp control 89 5th ave

Monkeyed

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soooo, deeper down the rabbit hole... I've found the evaporator coil, behind the fan, I still haven't found any blend doors..

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according to this, there could be one between the heater core, and the evaporator.. It doesn't have an illistration of an atc system, so I'm kind of shooting in the dark here..

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MiradaMegacab

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Look at the pic in post#4.
Follow the cable from the heater control to the heater box. I belive the cable is moving the blend door.
Now as you have an ATC system, there is an elecric servo that controls the blend door.
 

Monkeyed

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Look at the pic in post#4.
Follow the cable from the heater control to the heater box. I belive the cable is moving the blend door.
Now as you have an ATC system, there is an elecric servo that controls the blend door.

I haven't been able to find the servo.. I've found something that might be it,
 

Monkeyed

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Post a pic, its a square kind of plastic box, mounted ontop of the heater box. The blend door rod is verticle,

it's way in the back under all that wrapped padding, with the red dot on it, with the green wires going to it.

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I can seen a shaft coming from under it, and I can hear it trying to turn, but it's not moving,

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Monkeyed

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Which one?
Haven't found anything there that isn't here on that subject...you recruiting Doc? :laughing9:

lol! I can use all the help I can get!

target's acquired, now I just have to get to it.. and then.. umm, slap some lube on it, and hope it moves? I can't imagine a replacement one would be easy to find..
 

Monkeyed

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wasn't as as bad getting it out as I thought it'd be, that vent pulled rght out, and there was only the one bolt in front holding it in. the door moves freely, so that wasn't the problem

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soo, there it is.

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I took it apart, and it seems to move ok. I left the one big worm screw out nd plugged it back in to see if the motor worked, and noticed the connector was cracked, and if I held it tight it made a connection and the motor would spin! put some fresh grease on it, put it all back together and tried it again, nothing.. the battery was getting weak from the doors being open for so long, so I put it on the charger and will try again in a bit..

any ideas how to check the wires to eliminate that as a possible problem? not sure what kind of voltage that is suppossed to be running on..

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Monkeyed

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:headbang: alright! UPDATE!! It wasn't moving because it was trying to stay in the full open position, It's only 57* here, I moved it by hand and it went straaight back. after warming the car and interior up for a few minutes NORMAL OPERATION!!!!!

here's my redneck engineering for the cracked connection (zip-tied it), might add another, or two so it doen't have any wiggle room..

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God I love a happy ending!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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FredMcJoe

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The blend air door servo ELECTRICAL CONNECTOR seems to be the culprit for my occasional 'no-heat' situation for my 88 5A w/ATC, as it crumbled in my fingers when I went to inspect it.

The CONNECTOR has two 'pinch-together' tabs, the top one broke. Is there a known PART NUMBER for these connectors or did they use them on other HVAC units? It would be good to get a lead on replacement CONNECTORS.
 

FredMcJoe

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Justwondering, is that a for-certain link to the specific product or was that just a guess?
 

Justwondering

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I live in the country and have packrats get into the vehicles if I don't keep enough glue traps and moth balls in them.
Wiring solutions are 228 mile round trip to a picknpull for junkyard car part or
Local box store if part can be ordered or
Order online from waytek

I've have good results with waytek for the fifth avenue and the golf cart

Unless you are keeping it original you can use whatever type connector will carry the load and number of wires. Shape and color isn't important to me

I have found exactly the same plugs and I have had to compromise on shape.

You might send them a picture of what is needed and let them recommend a solution

Otherwise you could check with Jim in Arizona and he might be able to help if you can't order it or get a junkyard find
 

BudW

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I have a box of “bad” actuators.
Some that are locked up, some that is open circuit, a couple melted (interior fire), one that is melted (actuator shorted out), a couple that are corroded beyond reuse, a dozen I’m not sure what is wrong with other than they don't work, and a few I have attempted to repair.

I can usually repair most things electronic/electric – but have had zero luck on these actuators (which have been out of production for 20+ years).

Basically, it works as a form of electrical tug-of-war.
The resistance from the Ambient Temp Sensor (bolted to front of evaporator case – White Circle below) combined and the In-Car Temp Sensor (Red circle – the one with the 2 flex- hoses attached to it) and also combined with the resistance from the A/C Control Head - the feed from those 3 items then goes into the actuator.
If the voltage is high (from low resistance of the 3 combined resistors) then the electric motor spins in one direction, slowly.
If the voltage is low (from high resistance of the 3 combined resistors) then the electric motor spins the other direction.
If you can picture, in your mind two electromagnets tugging on an iron pendulum. One pulling it one way for a bit, the other the other direction a bit until it finally evens out (at your selected temperature).
IMG_20140912_185711_690a.jpg


In this case, I’m glad you were able to get it fixed.
I’ve spent years working on these (on and off) and have yet to get one to work for me.
Every time I go to a pull-a-part, I always grab the one in the car – so I have 3 or 4 of them to test (that is, if I can find them, to test them), but so far, I hadn’t found a confirmed “good” actuator from a pull-a-part, yet. I’m also not hopeful the untested ones I have work, either.

Below is PDF files of the SATA wiring – to show what I described (above).
BudW
 

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