Let me go get a box weighed and will shoot you a price for shipping - but I need a Zip code first (just shoot me a PM).
If you want to give some extra for the part – I would appreciate it for at this point, it is brand new but dead weight to me. It comes with pins and rings for 0.010” over 400, from 440 Source. I’ve only touched 1 piston – the rest has never been taken out of the box.
Same, if you want both sets (but only 1 set should do you).
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Depending on year of engine/transmission, a torque converter drain plug should be there.
Chrysler stopped installing them roughly around ’76 (or so) as a cost saving measure.
All torque converters with drain plugs are non-lockup.
All lock-up converters come without drain plugs.
Lock-up converters came out mid-year ’78 – so here are some non-lockup converters without drain plugs as well – which makes it tough to tell if a lockup or not - if it has no drain plug.
The drain plug makes it easy to line up the torque converter to the flexplate.
There is a small hole where the flexplate to crankshaft bolts are at. The drain plug goes opposite of that small hole.
A random picture I swiped from internet
If one really looks close, there will be a “V”, on an “X” stamped on the torque converter. That stamp lines up with the small hole in flexplate and is opposite side of the drain plug (if present).
Also, any small block transmission with a converter drain plug, will have a small plate cutout on the dust shield to allow to drain the converter in car. Big blocks – you just have to remove the entire cover. Small block dust shields are harder to remove.
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I believe you have came with a 1-piece kickdown linkage that came with the engine? In other words, there is a long shaft that is sorta bent into an “S” that connects just behind the carburetor and attaches to an arm on the transmission?
If so, that kickdown linkage will not work in an FMJ body - for it will hit the firewall roughly at ½ throttle. A person will need to find an A or B body 383/400 3-piece kickdown linkage (uses a bell crank on intake and another one on bell housing OR get a kickdown cable setup.
I’m looking for the OEM look so 3-piece setup for me – but cable setup might actually be cheaper.
---
The motorhome transmission (A727) uses heavy duty parts inside (not necessarily high performance) and serves as a great base for a transmission – if going automatic, that is.
Now with that said, most motor home transmissions do need some parts changed for it to fit into a passenger car. Not hard to do, in most cases. If you plan on using it, can you take a picture of it, mainly the rear half of it – and I can tell you exactly what is needed for car usage.
If you do sell it – make sure people know it is a motor home transmission!
It is getting hard to find a big block case, now days.
---
Are you going back with A/C? If not, I would not reuse the A/C brackets which will make things a lot simpler.
If so, are you planning on using the cast iron RV2 style A/C compressor (AKA the boat anchor)?
The Sanyo setups save weight and actually get batter fuel mileage than the RV2 style does.
If not planning on using A/C (or going Sanyo) – I am looking for the pulley and bracket set.
---
Next question is water pump housing. The older cars, the housing exits over the engine oil filter – which makes oil filter changes a big pain. There is no room to access the filter from under car because of the torsion bars. If the battery has not been re-located, then the battery also gets in the way.
I’m planning on moving my engine filter to the L/F wheel well, via remote filter – somehow (hadn’t gotten that part, yet).
Either water pump outlet direction – get an aluminum water pump housing! A lot of people makes the Left exit housing but only 440 Source makes the Right exit, which I know of.
If a person uses a Right exit housing – you might be able to use your existing radiator – if not using A/C.
The P/S pump should be the same one you already have – except brackets are different and pulley offset is different (and maybe pulley diameter, maybe).
---
Also, do you plan on using the valve covers off of it? If not, does one side have a large white sticker on it?
If so and you are not planning on using them, I might be interested in it or them.
BudW
If you want to give some extra for the part – I would appreciate it for at this point, it is brand new but dead weight to me. It comes with pins and rings for 0.010” over 400, from 440 Source. I’ve only touched 1 piston – the rest has never been taken out of the box.
Same, if you want both sets (but only 1 set should do you).
---
Depending on year of engine/transmission, a torque converter drain plug should be there.
Chrysler stopped installing them roughly around ’76 (or so) as a cost saving measure.
All torque converters with drain plugs are non-lockup.
All lock-up converters come without drain plugs.
Lock-up converters came out mid-year ’78 – so here are some non-lockup converters without drain plugs as well – which makes it tough to tell if a lockup or not - if it has no drain plug.
The drain plug makes it easy to line up the torque converter to the flexplate.
There is a small hole where the flexplate to crankshaft bolts are at. The drain plug goes opposite of that small hole.
A random picture I swiped from internet
If one really looks close, there will be a “V”, on an “X” stamped on the torque converter. That stamp lines up with the small hole in flexplate and is opposite side of the drain plug (if present).
Also, any small block transmission with a converter drain plug, will have a small plate cutout on the dust shield to allow to drain the converter in car. Big blocks – you just have to remove the entire cover. Small block dust shields are harder to remove.
---
I believe you have came with a 1-piece kickdown linkage that came with the engine? In other words, there is a long shaft that is sorta bent into an “S” that connects just behind the carburetor and attaches to an arm on the transmission?
If so, that kickdown linkage will not work in an FMJ body - for it will hit the firewall roughly at ½ throttle. A person will need to find an A or B body 383/400 3-piece kickdown linkage (uses a bell crank on intake and another one on bell housing OR get a kickdown cable setup.
I’m looking for the OEM look so 3-piece setup for me – but cable setup might actually be cheaper.
---
The motorhome transmission (A727) uses heavy duty parts inside (not necessarily high performance) and serves as a great base for a transmission – if going automatic, that is.
Now with that said, most motor home transmissions do need some parts changed for it to fit into a passenger car. Not hard to do, in most cases. If you plan on using it, can you take a picture of it, mainly the rear half of it – and I can tell you exactly what is needed for car usage.
If you do sell it – make sure people know it is a motor home transmission!
It is getting hard to find a big block case, now days.
---
Are you going back with A/C? If not, I would not reuse the A/C brackets which will make things a lot simpler.
If so, are you planning on using the cast iron RV2 style A/C compressor (AKA the boat anchor)?
The Sanyo setups save weight and actually get batter fuel mileage than the RV2 style does.
If not planning on using A/C (or going Sanyo) – I am looking for the pulley and bracket set.
---
Next question is water pump housing. The older cars, the housing exits over the engine oil filter – which makes oil filter changes a big pain. There is no room to access the filter from under car because of the torsion bars. If the battery has not been re-located, then the battery also gets in the way.
I’m planning on moving my engine filter to the L/F wheel well, via remote filter – somehow (hadn’t gotten that part, yet).
Either water pump outlet direction – get an aluminum water pump housing! A lot of people makes the Left exit housing but only 440 Source makes the Right exit, which I know of.
If a person uses a Right exit housing – you might be able to use your existing radiator – if not using A/C.
The P/S pump should be the same one you already have – except brackets are different and pulley offset is different (and maybe pulley diameter, maybe).
---
Also, do you plan on using the valve covers off of it? If not, does one side have a large white sticker on it?
If so and you are not planning on using them, I might be interested in it or them.
BudW
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