Throw me some ideas! Low budget 360 build

BudW

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It's a slant six bell housing though, so it will not work with my small block
Well, um, yea – that can be a problem.

If you currently have a 727 small block transmission (and nothing else) then that will have to do.

- The driveshaft is shorter so you are looking at expense to have one made or yours cut down.
- The Bell housing is slightly wider – which is not a problem per se, but both linkages attach to it and therefore is different.
- If column shifted, the automatic transmission Z-bar bell housing bracket will be different. If that bracket is still attached to your 727 – then you are in business. If not, find one from pretty much any 727 car transmission (it looks close to the same but is about 1-2 inches shorter/more narrow).
- The transmission kickdown linkage will be different between 727 vs. 904/999 because of same reason. If you don’t currently have the 4 bbl linkage, then find an aftermarket cable package and that will put that problem to bed.

BudW
 

SlantSixSullivan

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I got to thinking the other day.. would it really be worth the hours of work to port/polish the heads on a stock 360? I'm trying to do all I can on the cheap to make better power, but I'm just not sure I'd notice a difference if I took the time to clean up the intake/exhaust ports and combustion chamber. Obviously it does improve air flow, but on a stock motor? I'm just not sure if it's going to be worth my while. At any rate, I'd feel good sitting in the driver's seat just knowing that the work has been done, rather than just slapping the engine together.
 

BudW

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I have a pair of ‘72ish 360 2-bbl "J" cylinder heads.
The intake ports looks as smooth (or rough) as a “cheap” ball point pen that a dog has been chewing on for hours!

Smoothing the ports on this one will help flow drastically.
I haven’t seen any intake ports as rough as these were originally cast, sense.

I would agree with you on most cylinder heads used for stock (or close to it) usage, won't make use of the additional work.
That said, there are exceptions (like the pair in my garage).

If you have time to work on them, then why not - but your intake will need the same treatment.
BudW.
 

AJ/FormS

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It's like if your current heads flow well enough to feed your cylinders 100% of the time,And if 85% of the time you are using just 50% of the flow;what's the sense of punching them out to even 101%?Never mind 110%, or more.
I put X heads on a teener once,(cuz I had them ready, and the teener had burned a valve),and instantly I noticed the power had increased.......absolutely zero. Over the heads with the burned valves no less,lol
 

mirada mike

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Basic rebuild-balance the rotating assy-509 hyd cam - holley double pumper 650-750- good dual plane intake-3 angle valve job -3000 stall converter-3:91- 4:10 gears will put you low 13s maybe high 12s with proper tuning. worked for me 30 years ago. 125hp N.O.S knocks a second off With proper tires.
 

AJ/FormS

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As to cams
I'll say it again, if you are not gonna bring the compression up, then the 340 cam will have a very disappointing off-idle performance, with the 3.23s and the factory TC. Me personally,I wouldn't ever do it again.

Especially since I have already done it the other way, and have experienced a 340 with a teener cam! Now, a 360 with a teener cam has got to be even wilder, within the parameters of a DD and streeter. The torque boost should be exceptionally nice. Worth the $200,oh yeah!
But I tell you what, it's not the cam alone that makes it a winner, but the early closing intake valve, that keeps the cylinder pressure up. If it was me, this time around, I would be calling a cam grinder, and getting a cam with a similar ICA, but with as much lift and duration as the grinder will be able or willing to put on it.If he tells you to put certain springs on it and a rev limiter,do it! There is really no reason to limit your engine to a teener cam, when it is the Intake Closing Angle that you are after to keep the pressure up.
By doing this, you may be able to extend the operating rpm just a few hundred rpm,and thus pick up more power, and the added lift will punch up the midrange. A cam like this would have to have very fast lobes, and typically would need a ton of spring pressure to keep it all together.A flat tappet might not survive that for long. So, my theory is, with the very short period teener type ICA cam, the rpm is gonna be limited to an early redline. Therefore the spring pressure can be reduced some, and the cam will live longer.
So that's what I would do.And the cost difference is very small. I would order the cam dead-last, after the exact Compression Ratio has been determined.

Actually, having already installed a teener top-end and cam into a 340 in the early 70s,I would be very tempted to slam some small-chamber teener heads onto a 360 and with a stock teener cam. So, the heads will run out very early, but so what,it's a DD.And the torque increase will be phenomenal! And it would only cost me time, cuz, I already have all the parts.

Ok are you ready? I did some math....
In order for a stock 360 to make a 8.5 CR, with 72cc heads, the pistons need to be about 17.3cc or .084 down in the hole.
Now if you took some closed chamber heads of about 60cc and bolted them on instead, then your Scr would come up to about 9.5.
This is the magic number for that 340 cam, that you already own! The Dcr comes up to 7.62 and the pressure to 150psi.The Dcr is still not optimum, but it will support the cheapest gas around.And the 150psi, will make the off-idle performance just as snappy as the teener cam.The 340 cam will extend the operating range several hundred rpm.
The only downside might be if those 60cc heads came with small valves; that would kindof defeat the purpose of the 340 cam,again.:( So now we are looking for 60cc heads with big valves, and bigger ports would also be a bonus.But hold on a second. How often are you looking to run 4800 to 5500rpm? It's a streeter with street-gears right? Well, 5500 is about 50mph with 3.23s.
And I'll bet you a donut that you are only gonna get there once in a while, versus all the hundreds of trips where you are gonna be shifting at sub-3000rpm.
So now if the choke of 5500 bothers you, you still have choices; With the newfound compression, you can go back to say 2.94s. The 10% torque-multiplication loss will be a 10% gain in speed at 5500, which now is 55mph. With a 2200 TC, and 150psi, never having driven the car with 3.23s, you will not notice a loss of torque down low, as compared to the stock 360 cam. So now things are coming together. But if you need a bit more off-the-line, the next bigger TC will probably get it.
Another choice you have is headers and a free-flowing exhaust; Which should really be the very first thing on your list. If the hot exhaust can get out of the chambers in a hurry, the choke of the small valves will be a little more tolerable, on the street.
And I can attest to my totally-stock-long-block winter-teener pulling really hard thru TTIs and full-length 3inch duals, to well past 5000, and with springing, to 6000;allbeit with less authority.I even ran it with 2.76s and a 2.74low gear,and a 2800TC and was not unhappy with it.

So, I know I just thru a monkey-wrench into the mix, but I remember that combo so fondly, I just had to mention it.
For you,the added cost of the 60cc heads, would supplant the cost of the 340 cam which you are so eager to install.
Now you can machine your 360 heads down to near 60 cc, but the cost is hardly worth it, when better small chamber heads are out there, and don't forget that with so much cut off the 360 heads, the intake will no longer fit,so that will have to be remedied as well. And if anything gets cut crooked, well that is just incredibly aggravating to find out after the engine is assembled.......or installed.

So just in case I have really confused you, here is a recap;
-Stock 360 short block, with
-closed-chamber heads around 60cc
-340 cam kit
-2.94 gears,or less.
-headers and freeflowing duals
-Stock-type 2200TC; up to 2800 optional
In a DD, I know that I could be happy with that combo, especially in a lightweight chassis.
Sorry,man :(

But this is what has to be done in order to work with those sorry-azz pistons;compromises.
Personally, I think the best solution ,bar-none, is proper pistons and leave everything else alone. .084 down-in-the-hole is 17.3cc. This handicap is incredibly hard to work around in most cases.Plus with the proper sized chamber, and tight-Q, you are all set up for any future changes in camming.Yes, if you get the proper pistons in there, then the 340 cam that you already have, will be perfect. And so will be the stone-stock 360 heads.
I'd say "trust me on this", but that just sounds so impudent when I hear that it totally turns me off; so I wont..
My pistons of choice would be the KB 191/192s, custom fit into your unmachined heads to achieve a reasonably tight squish. The bonus of doing this is that you will be able to run a higher compression on crappier gas. The bonuses of the higher compression are; Better drive-away, more torque,more power, and better fuel economy. You can run less gear and less stall. You can put 3 other hefty boys in that car, and still be able to take off briskly; or in my case with a 10.97 starter gear,take off with fire,smoke,brimstone, and screaming tires! Well maybe not the fire and brimstone.....
 
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SlantSixSullivan

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As to cams
I'll say it again, if you are not gonna bring the compression up, then the 340 cam will have a very disappointing off-idle performance, with the 3.23s and the factory TC. Me personally,I wouldn't ever do it again.

Especially since I have already done it the other way, and have experienced a 340 with a teener cam! Now, a 360 with a teener cam has got to be even wilder, within the parameters of a DD and streeter. The torque boost should be exceptionally nice. Worth the $200,oh yeah!
But I tell you what, it's not the cam alone that makes it a winner, but the early closing intake valve, that keeps the cylinder pressure up. If it was me, this time around, I would be calling a cam grinder, and getting a cam with a similar ICA, but with as much lift and duration as the grinder will be able or willing to put on it.If he tells you to put certain springs on it and a rev limiter,do it! There is really no reason to limit your engine to a teener cam, when it is the Intake Closing Angle that you are after to keep the pressure up.
By doing this, you may be able to extend the operating rpm just a few hundred rpm,and thus pick up more power, and the added lift will punch up the midrange. A cam like this would have to have very fast lobes, and typically would need a ton of spring pressure to keep it all together.A flat tappet might not survive that for long. So, my theory is, with the very short period teener type ICA cam, the rpm is gonna be limited to an early redline. Therefore the spring pressure can be reduced some, and the cam will live longer.
So that's what I would do.And the cost difference is very small. I would order the cam dead-last, after the exact Compression Ratio has been determined.

Actually, having already installed a teener top-end and cam into a 340 in the early 70s,I would be very tempted to slam some small-chamber teener heads onto a 360 and with a stock teener cam. So, the heads will run out very early, but so what,it's a DD.And the torque increase will be phenomenal! And it would only cost me time, cuz, I already have all the parts.

Ok are you ready? I did some math....
In order for a stock 360 to make a 8.5 CR, with 72cc heads, the pistons need to be about 17.3cc or .084 down in the hole.
Now if you took some closed chamber heads of about 60cc and bolted them on instead, then your Scr would come up to about 9.5.
This is the magic number for that 340 cam, that you already own! The Dcr comes up to 7.62 and the pressure to 150psi.The Dcr is still not optimum, but it will support the cheapest gas around.And the 150psi, will make the off-idle performance just as snappy as the teener cam.The 340 cam will extend the operating range several hundred rpm.
The only downside might be if those 60cc heads came with small valves; that would kindof defeat the purpose of the 340 cam,again.:( So now we are looking for 60cc heads with big valves, and bigger ports would also be a bonus.But hold on a second. How often are you looking to run 4800 to 5500rpm? It's a streeter with street-gears right? Well, 5500 is about 50mph with 3.23s.
And I'll bet you a donut that you are only gonna get there once in a while, versus all the hundreds of trips where you are gonna be shifting at sub-3000rpm.
So now if the choke of 5500 bothers you, you still have choices; With the newfound compression, you can go back to say 2.94s. The 10% torque-multiplication loss will be a 10% gain in speed at 5500, which now is 55mph. With a 2200 TC, and 150psi, never having driven the car with 3.23s, you will not notice a loss of torque down low, as compared to the stock 360 cam. So now things are coming together. But if you need a bit more off-the-line, the next bigger TC will probably get it.
Another choice you have is headers and a free-flowing exhaust; Which should really be the very first thing on your list. If the hot exhaust can get out of the chambers in a hurry, the choke of the small valves will be a little more tolerable, on the street.
And I can attest to my totally-stock-long-block winter-teener pulling really hard thru TTIs and full-length 3inch duals, to well past 5000, and with springing, to 6000;allbeit with less authority.I even ran it with 2.76s and a 2.74low gear,and a 2800TC and was not unhappy with it.

So, I know I just thru a monkey-wrench into the mix, but I remember that combo so fondly, I just had to mention it.
For you,the added cost of the 60cc heads, would supplant the cost of the 340 cam which you are so eager to install.
Now you can machine your 360 heads down to near 60 cc, but the cost is hardly worth it, when better small chamber heads are out there, and don't forget that with so much cut off the 360 heads, the intake will no longer fit,so that will have to be remedied as well. And if anything gets cut crooked, well that is just incredibly aggravating to find out after the engine is assembled.......or installed.

So just in case I have really confused you, here is a recap;
-Stock 360 short block, with
-closed-chamber heads around 60cc
-340 cam kit
-2.94 gears,or less.
-headers and freeflowing duals
-Stock-type 2200TC; up to 2800 optional
In a DD, I know that I could be happy with that combo, especially in a lightweight chassis.
Sorry,man :(

But this is what has to be done in order to work with those sorry-azz pistons;compromises.
Personally, I think the best solution ,bar-none, is proper pistons and leave everything else alone. .084 down-in-the-hole is 17.3cc. This handicap is incredibly hard to work around in most cases.Plus with the proper sized chamber, and tight-Q, you are all set up for any future changes in camming.Yes, if you get the proper pistons in there, then the 340 cam that you already have, will be perfect. And so will be the stone-stock 360 heads.
I'd say "trust me on this", but that just sounds so impudent when I hear that it totally turns me off; so I wont..
My pistons of choice would be the KB 191/192s, custom fit into your unmachined heads to achieve a reasonably tight squish. The bonus of doing this is that you will be able to run a higher compression on crappier gas. The bonuses of the higher compression are; Better drive-away, more torque,more power, and better fuel economy. You can run less gear and less stall. You can put 3 other hefty boys in that car, and still be able to take off briskly; or in my case with a 10.97 starter gear,take off with fire,smoke,brimstone, and screaming tires! Well maybe not the fire and brimstone.....


I'm impressed by and grateful for the time and thought you put into this. These are things I'd never considered, as this is my very first engine build. So let me throw another obstacle into this scenario: I want to use nitrous. This started off as a budget build thread, and now I'm realizing that the reality of the matter may be that it is not going to be that way. If I use nitrous, I definitely want better pistons. Check that off the list. Also, I wouldn't want to increase cylinder pressure too much, as nitrous does this by itself. I have somewhat of a "game plan" in my head now, which changes every day.. What I can gather is this: I have the 360, I have two cams already to choose from (stock 360 and stock 340). From what I understand, in a purely stock 360, the cam of choice is a 318 cam. Would you still use that cam in a nitrous engine? I would think it wouldn't matter much, as I'd only be on nitrous for about 8 seconds or so. I found a rear axle housing, 8 3/4 from a '65 B body. Just get me some axles, gears, and I'll use the sure grip unit I've already got. 3.55 gears seem to be the best choice for street and highway use. And the tranny will be a 904 with shift kit. I will have to have a driveshaft made (no biggy). What else am I overlooking? I don't want to spend money on heads, stock will have to do for now. I don't really want to machine the block or heads, or bore the cylinders, but if need be, I will do so. Forged crank and rods too or just pistons? And I need to gap the rings for nitrous. Also, because of the increased cylinder pressure during nitrous use, timing needs to be retarded 2 degrees for every 50hp shot, and an MSD system will handle that automatically. So now I'm not so worried about the cam. I can get a stock 318 cam for a good price, or have one made specifically for my application which sounds like the best option.
 

SlantSixSullivan

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I remember what else I wanted to ask! Let's talk converters. Can you explain to me a bit about them? Lockup versus non lockup? Stall speed? What effect do these things have on torque, off the line acceleration, etc.?
 

AJ/FormS

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Mr.Sullivan
You really derailed it now.I have no N2O experience.And neither do you. In fact you have no tuning experience at all, right. Hey, I'm not being mean, but, rather, factual. How did we get from post #1 to N2O?
IMO, N2O should not be on the table for a few years yet. Do you really mean to blow the budget to set up for N2O, and risk it all the first time you flip the ARMED switch! Where would the money come from to build a second engine? Have you thought this thru?
Here's the deal; now you are talking pistons and things.So there is some money in your pockets.
But consider this if you just get running what you have, and say it makes 250hp. If you add a little shot, you get 300. A lil more 350, and enough to blow stuff up, you get 400.And so on.
Well it doesn't cost much to build a 350 to start with.And forget N2O.
If you are willing to put proper pistons in it, then you can use that 340 cam. I think we already had this discussion.And now you are already up to 300 easy hp. A few bolt-ons and a bit of headwork, and 350 is right there, and you never have to fill that stinking bottle! Or worry about blowing the oilpan off. Or melting a piston, or tearing off a crown, etc.
Besides, you can only take advantage of N2O at the track; the rest of the time you are still stuck with NA hp. And how often are you thinking of attending track?
Are we on the same page yet? Or do you want me to come over onto your side?I can switch, just say the word.......
 
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brotherGood

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If your using a power adder, go turbo. I say that, because there are enough people here in sure who've done a small block turbo setup. Also, as noted..you can't use no2 on the street..but a turbo can be.
 

BudW

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First of all, All Chrysler torque converters from 1966 to 1977 are non-lockup (older than 1966 are push button transmissions and for the most part, different).

Mid-year 1978, Chrysler went to lock up torque converters for fuel mileage reasons. After that point, you could request a non-lockup transmission so I have seen cars/trucks in the mid ‘80’s with non-lockups. Back in the day, it was a new “thing” and people didn’t want it. Now, I wouldn’t want a car without it.

One could find some articles online that might be able to explain how a torque converter works as well as lockup works, better than I can explain it - but I will give it a shot.

There are four major parts to a non-lock up converter:
The outer shell, or pump. This part turns with crankshaft (at engine speed) with vanes that forces fluid into the turbine using hydraulic force via a vortex. At first glance is looks like a sea shell that has been cut open.
Shell cut.jpg


The Turbine. This part attaches to the input shaft of transmission. It has vanes in it and it also looks like a sea shell.

The Stator. This part looks like a miniaturized flan blade inside of a jet (at first glance).

The one-way clutch or sprag (same part, different people call it different things). This attaches to the Stator to the front pump. The inner part of the one way clutch is stationary.

When car is at a stop, the Turbine and stator are stationary. There is not enough hydraulic vortex to do anything. As the pump speed increases, so does the hydraulic vortex. When the hydraulic vortex reaches a certain point, the Turbine has no choice to start spinning (stall speed). In some extreme situations, there is so much activity (energy) going on inside of the converter the outer shell of converter can swell to about ½” or so.

A larger converter allows for the vortex to ramp up faster allowing for low stall speeds (good for mileage/not so good for performance).

A side benefit of the hydraulic vortex process is torque multiplication.

When at cruise (steady speed), stator (and ½ of one way clutch), pump (outer shell) and turbine is rotating at roughly the same speed. Technically, there is roughly a 9 - 12% slippage (ie: about a 10% hit on fuel mileage when cruising).


A lock-up converter has the same parts but also has clutch disk and piston. The piston is made onto the back side (actually front side when looking towards rear of car) of turbine.

Fluid flows through the input shaft and applies the piston once at a steady speed (generally at 30 MPH), and takes care of that 9 -12% converter slippage. The transmission should kick out lock up when slightest pressure is applied to kickdown linkage, so converter slippage & torque multiplication goes back into effect, until car is back in steady speed again.


To tell the difference between a non-lockup and lockup converter or transmission.
All lockup torque converters DO NOT have a drain plug.
All non-lockup converters may or might not have a drain plug.
It is safe to say if your converter has a drain plug, it is a non-lockup. If it doesn’t have a drain plug then it might fit either.

The transmission input shafts are also different in design and spline count.
Non-lockup has splines for about 2 inches from end of shaft.
727 non-lockup.jpg

Lockup’s have a machined end for about ½ to ¾ inch with splines the remaining 1½ inch or so.
727 Lockup.jpg

904/998/999/500 non-lockup has 27 splines and lockup has 26 splines.
727/518 non-lockup has 24 splines and lockup has 23 splines.

Hopefully this helps,
BudW
 
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