Volare 77 /6 to 400

[Aspen500]

I've got the urethane iso pads and they seem to work just fine. Zero wheel hop, even when the right foot gets a little rambunctious.

If I could do it all over again, I'd go with a small block. The original S6 to 440 swap was in 1989 (before Schumacher, etc..) and I actually had a 360 and 727 all set to go. Then a buddy said "if you're going through the work to put V-8 in, why not go all the way and get a 440". What a stupid idea,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,on the other hand........When others heard they kept telling me "it'll never fit", "it can't be done" and you know what I HAD to do then. The 440 became a 500 about 6 years ago and it's in there to stay. It's fine except the weight up front is obvious when you come to curves. It's no autocross champion by any means but I'm fine with that.

 

[Oldiron440]

The 8.8 Ford has 3.25 axle tubes, so if you can't use the ones on the housing new ones can be purchased from Calvert and others if you can't fabricate yourself same with the lower plates.

 

[BudW]

The 8.8 Ford has 3.25 axle tubes, so if you can't use the ones on the housing new ones can be purchased from Calvert and others if you can't fabricate yourself same with the lower plates.

Nice to know.

New shock plates can be made for the 3¼ inch tube differentials – and might even possible to use whatever Ford uses – possibly (not looked at an 8.8” to know).


All Chrysler differentials, for cars, vans and pickups (Dana 60 and smaller) uses either an 3 inch or 2½ inch differential housing tubes. All 7¼ inch differentials from ’60-77ish were smaller tubes.
The ‘77ish and newer 7¼ differentials use a tapered down tube – which is 3 inch.

Not many FMJ 7¼ inch differentials are of the 2½ inch tube variant.
BudW

 

[Oldiron440]

The 8.8 uses a bolt on pinion joint mount and more likely than not you will not get thi when you get you rear axle so I would get the drive shaft also. Then have that cut and use a hybrid joint to the mopar trans yoke.

 

[Aka601]

Thank you all for very good info on the 8.8 subject! Now I have to digest all this information and concider how to continue.
Hope to get a few days of before christmas to go axle hunting.
Just two examples so you guys can compare how lucky you are buying parts:
Out fore sale is exactly twenty Explorer 8.8s in the whole contry at $ 450-600.
The spring perches BudW refere to is $14.99 in US plus $ 25.54 shipping then sales tax 25% on top. "If you want to play you have pay"
$50.66. Not complaning- just saying.

 

[Oldiron440]

I think I would hold off on the mounts and see how close the 8.8 s were, I would also be fabricating as much as I could. I personally find fabrication rewarding and self fulfilling.

 

[Aspen500]

25% sales tax? Holy you know what Batman!

 

[BudW]

Most all Chrysler rear differentials changed to a flat differential flange yoke (much like the ford flange) in the mid ‘90’s. This applies to pickups, vans, Dakotas and Jeeps – sense there were no rear wheel drive cars made after ’89 (until 2005).

I have “heard from a friend” who said the GM rear yokes are the same as the Chrysler flat flange yokes – but I haven’t even looked at one to compare (could be an old wife’s tale, for all I know).

The rear yoke from ’65 to mid ‘90’s:

From mid ‘90’s to present.

Propeller shaft part.

Before taking propeller shaft to a driveshaft shop for shortening – I might recommend removing your Ford differential yoke and just see if your existing yoke might fit. If it does, then one less thing the driveshaft shop needs to do (which may or might not work). Also, a good time to install a new pinion seal at same time (which I would do, anyway).

If yoke wont fit, they will cut off end from the old Ford driveshaft and weld onto your existing propeller shaft when they shorten it (if it needs shortening, that is).
BudW

 

[BudW]

25% sales tax? Holy you know what Batman!

I “believe” they call it a VAT tax (Value Added Tax).

 

[Oldiron440]

You can put a 1350 yoke from Strange or Morison on the front of an 8.8, there is good aftermarket support for the 8.8..

 

[Aka601]

Well, lucky me!(I hope..) Today I went to the nerest used parts yard having a 8.8 just 20 miles away. The guy told me it was a -93 Explorer 3L73. Yes it got drums but seems complete, minus prop shaft, and looks nice for it's age. Will pick it up tomorrow and do a clouser inspection. Hope to be able to reuse as mutch as possible of the brake parts after sandblasting it. The 3.73 is way to mutch and will be replaced, maby like 3.08.

 

[Oldiron440]

Don't get in to big of a hurry to replace the 3.73 gears, your 400 will love it. A 28" tire fits the Volare nicely to take the edge of the highway rpm.
The L is Fords locking axle or limited slip, the nice part about it is its easy to rebuild and is used in the currant Mustang so up grade parts are available.
8.8" Carbon Rebuild Kit M-4700-C

 

[Aka601]

Yes, the 3.73 vill stay for now and be tested. I try to keep the project move forward and not to let it stop trying to omtimize every little thing at the same time. Done that mistake before. Not time to buy rims and tiers yet but the interest is growing. Like the steel police wheels in semi gloss and the small chrome hub caps (dog dish?).

 

[Aka601]

Finaly got the 8.8 home. Sure is havey. Neighbots see two grown up men
wrestleing a big pice of iron out of a SW.
Temted to get on wiht the axle rightaway but must put it aside and finish the motor first. Was told my valve springs was comming soon.

 

[Oldiron440]

If I remember correctly the rear brakes are sizable and would work fine on your mopar.
My 8.8 came with drums also but I decided that I wanted disks on my project.

 

[Aka601]

How mutch of a difference did it made going from druns to discs in the rear in every day driving, part from the cool factor?

 

[Aspen500]

Depending on your power level and expected usage, you may want to weld the axle tubes to the center section. The Ford 8.8 is plug welded from the factory and I've seen the plug welds fail from time to time. Usually in Mustangs with manual trans and more than factory power and sticky tires but also a couple times in a stock Explorer or Ranger. It's possible the plug welds weren't done well enough in the first place also on those.

 

[Oldiron440]

I had mine welded, mine is still in the project stage as far as the brakes, I had a summit coupon that I used for the disk setup. The brakes on the 8.8 are large enough, 10 × 2.5 and cheap to replace. I'm using a 11" summit kit that allows 15" wheels.

 

[Aka601]

Lots of good info BudW and others on the 8.8 swap! Delite or not to delite the ISO-stuff is the question. Time, cost, local parts access and other consequences is all parameters in the equation.
In stock form the car has always had the issue with non centerd axle (7.25) in wheelhouse. I did not know of this when running orginal skinny tires, but when put on wider rubber, one side extended out mor then the other, maby 1/3 inch. Then shifted the leafsprings from side to side and the difference appeard on the other side! Twisted springs?

 

[BudW]

Somehow, I missed this:

My HP manifold casting nr is 3751068 and 37510771.

3751068 (Left) is for a '72-74 B-body 400/440 HP without A.I.R. (air pump).
3751071 (Right) is from a '70-73 B/E/C-body 400/440 HP also without A.I.R.
Both manifolds are the nice ones.

The Left side is missing a tin heat shield (white arrow, below) that allows air cleaner to get hot air for better cold drivability (if not fuel injected). If you don't plan on driving car when its frozen out, this won't matter much. Fuel injection wont need or want this in place.

BudW