Volare Wagon - T/A Kit Racer Stance

Projects & Restorations

  1. Opticon77

    Opticon77 Well-Known Member

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    Couple more updates, though not all planned.

    - Fast ratio Pitman and Idler are in with the 11/16" tie rod hardware. Old idler ball joint was dust. Nearly fell out in my hands. Yikes.

    - Found the steering plunge coupler was half the cause of the full inch of slop in my "suggestion wheel". Found a slightly shorter (3" instead of 3.5") replacement at Bouchillon. Still worked fine. Thanks to Aspen500 for those links.

    - I've been trying to nurse the original driveline until I'm done with Chassis/Suspension but when the old A904 started slipping in 2nd up a hill I knew I had to drop the pan... the ATF looked like candy metallic. Plus a little bit of band friction material wedged in the filter. Front and rear band adjustments look to never have been touched. Preload was about 50% out from spec (4 turns from tight on the front, 6 turns on the rear). I am NOT looking to drop a trans yet. Quick patch was to tighten the bands, flush as much of the sparkly ATF out as I could, new filter, and refill it with Ford type F and little Lucas No Slip. It's been shifting great for the last tank of gas so maybe I'll get away with that for a while.

    -Oh and I had to bypass Lean Burn. Cheap GM HEI setup with Denso Iridiums thrown in for now. Finally got rid of the pinging and got the idle down where it should be but now I lost my vacuum advance. 2bbl doesn't seem that happy anyway. Maybe time for a reman Demon 1901.

    STILL haven't got the sway bars or shocks under this thing. The best laid plans of mice and men.
     
  2. BudW

    BudW Moderator Staff Member

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    I like to measure trans pan metal with teaspoons. No, not actually use a teaspoon to measure with but for comparison reasons. I have seen transmissions with (approximately) 1-2 teaspoons of metal in pan, that went on to survive for a very long time.
    Now if metal could be measured in multiple tablespoons or if chunks are present, then that is a different matter.

    1-2 teaspoons worth of fine metal with about the same amount in “gray” dust like material (paper clutch linings) is nothing to worry about and is normal, no matter what the mileage is (IMO).
    If you see screws, snap ring parts or other items you can recognize – then you can keep driving the car – but start to sock away some money for a future overhaul (unless it is currently acting up).

    Chrysler recommends to adjust both bands about every 30k miles – or if you drive with a heavy foot (like I do), about every 15-20k miles. In reality, the filter needs to be changed just as often.

    Chrysler recommends to use ATF+4 for our vehicles. If you got the extra money, then why not.
    Personally, I don't think the extra cost for ATF+4 is worth the extra expense for our cars. I recommend plain ole Dextron fluid – unless you have a specific reason for something else (like Type-F, for example) - and there can be reasons to change fluid type. Type-F fluid usage won't hurt our transmissions as well as some other types – but I can't say about some fluids that came out recently (like WS (World Standard), CVT, and so forth) yet (no experience).

    One more thing – if the fluid on any Chrysler transmission has any kind of odor to it – change it! Its way past prime.

    Some shops will want to perform a “fluid exchange” instead of dropping the pan (and changing the filter). The only comment I have about that is “how is both bands going to get adjusted – which will needs to be done every 30k miles (or 15-20k miles, in my case)”?

    In many cases, when you drop the pan, ½ of the fluid will automatically siphon out of the torque converter. If you have one of the very few FMJ's with a converter drain plug, then you can drain pretty much all of the fluid out – but I would guess 99.9% of all FMJ's do not have the converter drain plug sense Chrysler stopped using that in about '75 – which was a shame. All lockup transmission converters will not have a drain plug.
    BudW
     
  3. Duke5A

    Duke5A Well-Known Member

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    I spent what little free time I had for the last three weeks trying to install a Hyperspark distributor to enable timing control. Too many problems of my own creation and some not to list. Wound up right back where I started and barely got the thing ready for Dream Cruise week. It happens to all of us.
     
  4. Opticon77

    Opticon77 Well-Known Member

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    I gotta get some PDR done on the passenger side. I counted about 8 good dents over there.

    DSA3XyA.jpg

    B0zkfrB.jpg
     
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  5. old yellow 78

    old yellow 78 Well-Known Member

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    I'll be interested in how that turns out. I have some mild hail damage on OY's roof, and an annoying small dent in the tailgate that I'd like to have removed, and I think PDR would be able to do it. ;)
     
  6. Trey

    Trey Well-Known Member

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    Nice looking wagon! I've had PDR done on several of our cars and have always been very pleased with the results. The best fix was when my wife had a deer run into the side of her Honda. The bodyshop wanted over $800 to fill and spray and PDR was only $300. It looked like it never happened and I saved $500. I also had it done recently on my F150 and even with the aluminum body they made a flawless repair. Aluminum costs a little more and they can only do so much before the metal tears but it's a good alternative if not too bad of a dent.
     
  7. cjd1963

    cjd1963 Well-Known Member

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    It looks great! Love it!