1. Bruceynz

    Bruceynz Well-Known Member

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    Hi Guys,

    A 904 trans with a 360 in front of it what would you expect the 1 2 shift rpm to be at? If people have been following my project you will know all I can get out of it is about 3700-3800rpm. I have ordered a tans cable to sort out the linkage problem. But is there also a nice shift kit out there that will shift the changes up a bit higher but not make it bang through the gears, I still want it to be a mild street car but not a drag car.

    I have a Superior Trans TF-TC kit here but not sure if that is going to do what I want it to.

    Anyone got any advice?

    Thanks
    Bruce
     
  2. jasperjacko

    jasperjacko Well-Known Member

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    Is the shift point the same regardless of throttle position?
     
  3. Bruceynz

    Bruceynz Well-Known Member

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    it works as normal but when you want to take off idle it changes 1 2 at 3700-3800 I think was the best I got it, will the lokar trans cable help? I have gone from 218 to 360, 2bbl to 4bbl and the linkages are a issues
     
  4. Bruceynz

    Bruceynz Well-Known Member

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  5. AJ/FormS

    AJ/FormS Well-Known Member

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    You have to get the linkages worked out first.
    The 2bbl and the 4bbl top linkages to the firewall are different, both the cable anchor and the top linkrod. The governors are/may also be calibrated differently, but again the governor pressure is modified by the TV pressure which is controlled by the KD linkage.
    So to find out what is going on remove the top linkrod completely;put it on the workbench.
    Next make sure the throttle plates are opening completely. With the engine off,Have a helper inside the car floor the gaspedal, while you, under the hood, shine a light down the holes and make sure the primaries are standing WOT, that is to say , open as far as they go.If they are not WOT, then figure out how, and make it happen. This is somewhat paramount. The KD pin cannot properly send the right information to the VB(valvebody), until this is correct. Furthermore that KD pin needs to be in the correct position, relative to the throttle shaft, to properly time the TV pressure and KD events.
    Finally, get under the car and tie the TV lever to the back, as far as it will go. When you begin this process, the first say 40% of it's travel nothing may be happening, but soon you will feel the internal resistance as the TV spring,inside, engages.You must feel this springiness before you proceed. The TV lever should be at about 90* to the vehicle centerline,at this point, perhaps a little less. So pump the lever(you cannot hurt anything inside), and feel that spring. If you feel it and it pushes the lever back, then continue. OK so push it as far back as iot goes and anchor it there. You can zip-tie it or wire it some such a thing.
    Next take it for a spin with the top linkrod still on the bench.
    With the lever tied all the way back, the shifts will all be harsh, and all should be very delayed. Depending on the internal calibrationS, it could shift well after 4000 and even 5000. So if it won't go into second by some safe-for-your-engine, don't push it. Go back to the shop and reposition the lever allowing about a half inch slack this time, and retest.
    Having done this, you have figured learned a bit about what the governor pressure to TV pressure relationship is, and if it is possible to make your current parts work.
    When this has been discovered, cut the cable-tie and reinstall the top linkrod.Now fix what needs fixing.
    In all likelihood the cable-anchor will need to be relocated further forward to properly open the throttles.Then the KD pin will need to be verified to be in the correct location. And finally the linkrod will need to be stretched to make the TV function correctly.
    Or you can just buy the proper parts; but in NZ that might be easier said than done. These mods have been documented here on FABO, so a little time spent searching should bring some stuff up.
    Oh, almost forgot;
    Once everything is in proper working relationship, and the upshifts are still too early, come on back, we'll talk about messing with the pressures
     
  6. BudW

    BudW Moderator Staff Member

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    Well said, AJ/formS.

    At one time I fabricated a linkage that pops into the transmission kickdown linkage and it clamped onto the transmission crossmember with a turnbuckle in the middle.
    I loaned it out to someone and forgotten about it for years – until just now (sigh, I spent a lot of work on that tool).

    It takes a bit of time and a lot of patience – but you have to have the linkage working correctly FIRST or nothing else really matters.
    That last 50% of arm movement is critical which means the carburetor linkage stud needs to be in correct location (ie: “clock” start position (throttle closed) at roughly 11:30 o'clock, and is fully open at roughly 2:30 o'clock, for example)(ie: using the Chrysler/Mopar linkage adapter – which I think you finally got) and linkage going in a straight back direction to first pivot (or cable – which ever one you are using).
    If linkage (or cable) is not going in a straight back direction, then throttle stud angles will also upset adjustments.
    BudW
     
  7. Bruceynz

    Bruceynz Well-Known Member

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    This Chrysler linkage is a nightmare of a thing! I have got my cable yet but when I do sounds like will take some time to set up!
     
  8. 80mirada

    80mirada Well-Known Member

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    The cable setup shouldn't be to hard. I believe mounting them is the hard part. If you are getting the bouchillon one I believe they had excellent instructions and we're easy to set
     
  9. Bruceynz

    Bruceynz Well-Known Member

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    I bought this one

    link.jpg
     
  10. Bruceynz

    Bruceynz Well-Known Member

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    Be glad when I get this sorted! Hope my A999 can handle a 360 ok!
     
  11. AJ/FormS

    AJ/FormS Well-Known Member

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    It 's only a nightmare if you don't have the right parts. I think of it more like a challenge....:)

    Another thing that is critical, and I touched on it in the earlier post (#5), is that the KD pin needs to be in the correct position relative to the throttle shaft. This is a distance measurement. If it is too close or too far away, then the KD timing and the accompanying TV pressure rise will be off. If you have a universal throttle arm on your carb, you will need the Mopar adapter, as the Chebbie hole is in the wrong relationship.If you have not installed the Mopar adapter, you will have nothing but frustration.
    You know, I get that this system might not be as nice to work on as perhaps a GM, but it's what we got, and I for one have come to like it.
     
    Last edited: Nov 13, 2016
  12. High Speed Pursuit

    High Speed Pursuit Well-Known Member

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    Hey Bruce! Glad to hear you weren't affected by the earthquake. You are the subject of another thread started by me this morning regarding your status post the 7.8 quake...check it out...many will be glad to hear that you are ok.
     
  13. Bruceynz

    Bruceynz Well-Known Member

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    Was a like being in a boat in a swell, slow rolling motion, quake was some 70 or 80 miles away from my house. Thanks for you concern, amazing how far the news gets!
     
    80mirada likes this.
  14. 80mirada

    80mirada Well-Known Member

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    Take your time setting it up, that style works well, but is a little more work to set up.