7T8 Custom
Well-Known Member
That looks like fun in stop and go rush hour traffic.
Yes, I still have it ('76 Volare Premier Coupe update)
- Thread starter RowanAmethyst
- Start date
Oldiron440
Well-Known Member
Oh my!
76SassyGrassVolare
Well-Known Member
Haha nice list AJ lol ... Good luck with the Volare RowanAmethyst , at least your on the track to getting the the car moving and having some fun with it , thats the most important thing is to enjoy it , whether its on the roads or doing some Motorsports with it ...good luck!
RowanAmethyst
Well-Known Member
Okay, an update on the update: Thinking about saying goodbye to the 318 and swapping in a 360 Magnum, maybe wait a bit on that and get what fun out of the 318 that I can. I haven't had much of a chance to even look at the Volare since my last post, except in fleeting glances as I look out my parents' kitchen window. At this point, it's gonna need a lot of work, though I bet with a little TLC it'll still run just fine. I hate that it's just been sitting, but I have no funds to work on it (I didn't get the job, forget if I mentioned that) and no space to work on it either. Anyone know of a place in the Reading/Allentown, PA region that'll rent garage space for cheap?
mike2
Well-Known Member
Keep plugging away, a job will come, you could work on it with little dollars , the wiper bushings are very reasonable to buy, just labor and patience. Cleaning is also a cheap improvement and does wonders for apearance,and takes a lot of time. Small progress is progress and keeps a project alive.Good luck with job search. Post some pics never know who might have some cheap parts around.
RowanAmethyst
Well-Known Member
Well, I have a small business making costumes for historical reenactment, I jst need to get fabric and churn out some stuff and the money will come eventually. My husband wants to help with the car, but he's not very mechanically inclined so he can only really help financially. Between the two of us we could likely get something going with it, so right now I'm more worried about having a place to do work. My parents have a concrete pad, but I doubt my dad will like the Volare being parked there long term. Honestly, I need a lift, and proper equipment. But I can do basic stuff where it is.
Short term plans are to assess the damage leaving it sit caused, and see what it needs to run. Fresh oil and fresh gas are on the list, but I don't know what else it'll need. The horn needs to be sorted, does anyone know if I can just wire in a button on the dashboard to work the horn and forget about the short in the steering column? To pass inspection, that is. Beyond that, it needs wipers, and probably tires (sitting in the grass for that long probably rotted them out), but I think that's it, beyond fixing whatever else went bad while sitting.
Long term? The interior is trashed, I know that much. And the trim outside is pretty rough too. So I might just pull everything out and throw in a couple racing seats. Eventually do the Magnum swap. Source a decent rear end, do something about the suspension. The transmission is likely fine for what I'm doing with it, and as far as I know it bolts right up to the 360 Magnum with very few modifications needed. Beyond that? Brakes, maybe some nice wheels, fresh paint (keeping that blue though, I love the color).
Short term plans are to assess the damage leaving it sit caused, and see what it needs to run. Fresh oil and fresh gas are on the list, but I don't know what else it'll need. The horn needs to be sorted, does anyone know if I can just wire in a button on the dashboard to work the horn and forget about the short in the steering column? To pass inspection, that is. Beyond that, it needs wipers, and probably tires (sitting in the grass for that long probably rotted them out), but I think that's it, beyond fixing whatever else went bad while sitting.
Long term? The interior is trashed, I know that much. And the trim outside is pretty rough too. So I might just pull everything out and throw in a couple racing seats. Eventually do the Magnum swap. Source a decent rear end, do something about the suspension. The transmission is likely fine for what I'm doing with it, and as far as I know it bolts right up to the 360 Magnum with very few modifications needed. Beyond that? Brakes, maybe some nice wheels, fresh paint (keeping that blue though, I love the color).
I’m glad to see another lady around in our forums (it helps keep us guys inline – wait, did I say that out loud?).
Also, most repairs and upgrades to your car can be done by self and/or by husband.
One thing that would be very helpful is to get your hands on a Factory Service Manual (FSM) first. There are the aftermarket books (like Chiltons and Hayes) and the ones published by Chrysler (which is the one I highly recommend, over aftermarket versions). They come in book form (actually 2 books, one is for electrical and another book for everything else) or in digital form (.PDF file). They are well worth their cost to obtain!
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1976-CHRYSLER-PLYMOUTH-DODGE-CHARGER-SERVICE-SHOP-REPAIR-MANUAL-76-WIRING-DIAG/362348518238?hash=item545da79b5e:g:rqgAAOSwEeFVS7et
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1976-Dodge-Plymouth-Chrysler-Shop-Manual-Set-on-CD-76-Repair-Service/160789416555?fits=Year%3A1976%7CMake%3ADodge&epid=722374922&hash=item256fcbca6b:g:YjUAAOSw32lYtfrJ
I found these pair on eBay. There might be other sources, as well (like Craigslist, etc.)
If you are on a budget (and who is not) and if you can wait on parts – by far the cheapest place to purchase auto parts is RockAuto.com. A person must wait a couple of days for parts to arrive.
Looking for wiper bushings, I found at rock auto:
It doesn’t say this – but the price is $0.49 each (times 10 – for the box of 10) – so price is actually $4.90 plus freight and tax).
At O’Reilly Auto Parts (a parts chain close to me)
The first item is an assortment – so only 2 to 4 will fit your car. The rest fit other cars (so not really a good deal).
If nothing else, once you have the part number, you can search on eBay (or other places) to find a better deal.
There is a total of 4 wiper bushings. 3 of which are the one shown above. The 4th bushing attaches to the wiper motor and that bushing is not available (that I know of).
If that bushing is broken or damaged, there is a fix and that is to use a link/arm from a newer M-body that uses a bushing that matches the other 3. These bushings are not difficult to replace per se (helps if you had done it before) and can be done by most people that has an small assortment of hand tools.
Matter of fact, I need to change the bushings in my ’77 Volare wagon, soon. I might have to take a lot of pictures of how that is done.
Having a FSM handy will make working on the horn – a lot easier. The horn wire is part of the turn signal switch – or more specifically, the wiring harness portion of the switch. I doubt the switch will need replacing. I think a stray wire wondered off and got chaffed. A bit of work can repair the wire and you are back on the road. It will require access to a steering wheel puller – but most auto part stores will loan those out (for a deposit). Worse case is a person can replace the damaged wire in the column with another wire (or mount another horn switch on dash somewhere – like an EASY button on dash pad).
I might have what you need for engine A/C bracket(s). I will need to see picture(s) of what you currently have, and what looks "off", so I can look at what I have.
My '77 wagon is a factory no-A/C car, so it is a great reference.
40-year-old Vinyl tops. What can I say. The problem with removing one – is sometimes the body is not painted underneath (most times they are painted) – and it looks tacky to remove a top to see a primer finish. Also, the quarter window plugs were meant to be covered and, again, the plugs look tacky without covering. If car is going to rarely find its way on the street, then nothing to worry about. If you are going to use car in parades and or use it for political races (or whatever), a person might want to plan something else. There are some good photos in this forum showing what the window plug looks like (and how it stands out when uncovered).
A noteworthy note: Rust likes to collect around the quarter window plugs and having a cracked vinyl top makes rust a bigger problem. Be forewarned that a person might find "rust" after top is peeled off.
Does your car have bench or bucket seats in it? The answer doesn’t matter to me – but might make a difference to you.
If you have sewing experience – a person might be able to make replacement seat covers (out of vinyl or cloth) – easier than you might think. New seat covers (or repaired seat covers) and new foam will transform a seat 100%. Also, making a cover (leaving the original seat covers in place) and placing new foam on top can (also) make a huge difference.
Who knows, you might even be able to barter with an upholstery shop with your sewing talents or other things and might learn a thing or two. Also, lot of the seat work is labor – which you one or both of you can do.
There is a lot of performance modifications you could make to your existing 318. That said, for bang per dollar spent – finding a 360 magnum will net you so much more – and maybe for even less $, overall. For a lot of people, even a stock 360 magnum will fill there power needs.
Not sure about around there, but I found a ’97 Dodge Ram pickup that is rusty and has some front-end damage. The owner has it for sale in Craigslist for part or for whole for $300.00 (Oklahoma City area) – but you must tow it off. It has the engine you need, plus so much more that can be useful (or sellable). Get what you need and junk the rest off. This example won’t work for you for I’m several states away from you.
In this case, a person could get the engine and fuel injection system (maybe even the transmission) and could knock out a few birds with one stone.
There is a lot of different possibilities. Also, if in doubt, post here what looks attractive and many of us will give our thoughts to the matter.
A 360 Magnum is almost a bolt in engine. I wouldn’t take the 318 Magnum off the table, either – but 42 extra cubic inches is noticeable.
- If using a 318 Magnum, your existing oil pan will work. A 360 will need a 360 car oil pan to fit (it is a different pan than 318).
- You have choice of using existing timing cover, water pump alternator, P/S (if equipped), pulleys and brackets (just transfer your parts to front of the Magnum) OR use the Magnum front components from donor car (helpful if you get engine that way to begin with).
- The 360 engine will need either a 360 car Left side motor mount – or use washers to space out about ¼” cap between block and mount.
- The magnum intake bolts onto engine differently (bolts go straight down instead of 45’ angle on older engines - see pictures, below) – so a person would either need to use the fuel injection system off original engine OR purchase a new intake manifold (as well as carburetor).
- 4-bbl throttle cable is longer than the 2-bbl version is (about $25 for a new cable) or if going fuel injection that might require some fabrication.
- 4-bbl (or F.I.) kickdown linkage (or cable) will need to be located and used.
- A 360 flexplate (externally balanced) will be needed.
- Your existing transmission and starter will fit (but the newer mini starter is highly recommended to use).
- Most everything else will fit without issue.
Fuel system: a carburetor is simple and works for most people. Fuel injection is a lot more precise and is normally easier to diagnosis problems.
There are 4-bbl appearing aftermarket fuel injection systems out there – but a good system costs at/over $1000 (US). The good part is if you already have a 4-bbl intake, they are easy to install and are self-tuning.
The factory has a couple of F.I. systems – throttle body and port fuel injection.
The throttle body system requires a cast iron 2-bbl looking intake and a computer (bolted to firewall or inside car somewhere). It works well if you want to have a factory appearing underhood appearance (important to some people).
The port fuel injection is what comes with the Magnums and it uses a “beer keg” design aluminum intake
If you notice, you can see the difference in intake mounting bolts (bolt direction)
My thoughts are: if you can get something cheap (like Craigslist or similar) where you can get a fuel injection system for free (so to speak) then go for it (Throttle Body Injection or Port Injection).
If not, you will be fine with a carburetor. F.I. is a “nice to have”, but not a “must have”.
Paint is not my “knowledgeable subject”. There are products out there that will clean the paint – making it look 1000% better, then put a layer of wax over it and presto – it looks like a completely different car.
That said, if you plan on painting the car – you will want to avoid wax sense it causes problem when painting (if any wax is present at time of painting). Maybe spending a couple of hours cleaning the paint and waxing – might be helpful.
BudW
Also, most repairs and upgrades to your car can be done by self and/or by husband.
One thing that would be very helpful is to get your hands on a Factory Service Manual (FSM) first. There are the aftermarket books (like Chiltons and Hayes) and the ones published by Chrysler (which is the one I highly recommend, over aftermarket versions). They come in book form (actually 2 books, one is for electrical and another book for everything else) or in digital form (.PDF file). They are well worth their cost to obtain!
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1976-CHRYSLER-PLYMOUTH-DODGE-CHARGER-SERVICE-SHOP-REPAIR-MANUAL-76-WIRING-DIAG/362348518238?hash=item545da79b5e:g:rqgAAOSwEeFVS7et
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1976-Dodge-Plymouth-Chrysler-Shop-Manual-Set-on-CD-76-Repair-Service/160789416555?fits=Year%3A1976%7CMake%3ADodge&epid=722374922&hash=item256fcbca6b:g:YjUAAOSw32lYtfrJ
I found these pair on eBay. There might be other sources, as well (like Craigslist, etc.)
If you are on a budget (and who is not) and if you can wait on parts – by far the cheapest place to purchase auto parts is RockAuto.com. A person must wait a couple of days for parts to arrive.
Looking for wiper bushings, I found at rock auto:
It doesn’t say this – but the price is $0.49 each (times 10 – for the box of 10) – so price is actually $4.90 plus freight and tax).
At O’Reilly Auto Parts (a parts chain close to me)
The first item is an assortment – so only 2 to 4 will fit your car. The rest fit other cars (so not really a good deal).
If nothing else, once you have the part number, you can search on eBay (or other places) to find a better deal.
There is a total of 4 wiper bushings. 3 of which are the one shown above. The 4th bushing attaches to the wiper motor and that bushing is not available (that I know of).
If that bushing is broken or damaged, there is a fix and that is to use a link/arm from a newer M-body that uses a bushing that matches the other 3. These bushings are not difficult to replace per se (helps if you had done it before) and can be done by most people that has an small assortment of hand tools.
Matter of fact, I need to change the bushings in my ’77 Volare wagon, soon. I might have to take a lot of pictures of how that is done.
Having a FSM handy will make working on the horn – a lot easier. The horn wire is part of the turn signal switch – or more specifically, the wiring harness portion of the switch. I doubt the switch will need replacing. I think a stray wire wondered off and got chaffed. A bit of work can repair the wire and you are back on the road. It will require access to a steering wheel puller – but most auto part stores will loan those out (for a deposit). Worse case is a person can replace the damaged wire in the column with another wire (or mount another horn switch on dash somewhere – like an EASY button on dash pad).
I might have what you need for engine A/C bracket(s). I will need to see picture(s) of what you currently have, and what looks "off", so I can look at what I have.
My '77 wagon is a factory no-A/C car, so it is a great reference.
40-year-old Vinyl tops. What can I say. The problem with removing one – is sometimes the body is not painted underneath (most times they are painted) – and it looks tacky to remove a top to see a primer finish. Also, the quarter window plugs were meant to be covered and, again, the plugs look tacky without covering. If car is going to rarely find its way on the street, then nothing to worry about. If you are going to use car in parades and or use it for political races (or whatever), a person might want to plan something else. There are some good photos in this forum showing what the window plug looks like (and how it stands out when uncovered).
A noteworthy note: Rust likes to collect around the quarter window plugs and having a cracked vinyl top makes rust a bigger problem. Be forewarned that a person might find "rust" after top is peeled off.
Does your car have bench or bucket seats in it? The answer doesn’t matter to me – but might make a difference to you.
If you have sewing experience – a person might be able to make replacement seat covers (out of vinyl or cloth) – easier than you might think. New seat covers (or repaired seat covers) and new foam will transform a seat 100%. Also, making a cover (leaving the original seat covers in place) and placing new foam on top can (also) make a huge difference.
Who knows, you might even be able to barter with an upholstery shop with your sewing talents or other things and might learn a thing or two. Also, lot of the seat work is labor – which you one or both of you can do.
There is a lot of performance modifications you could make to your existing 318. That said, for bang per dollar spent – finding a 360 magnum will net you so much more – and maybe for even less $, overall. For a lot of people, even a stock 360 magnum will fill there power needs.
Not sure about around there, but I found a ’97 Dodge Ram pickup that is rusty and has some front-end damage. The owner has it for sale in Craigslist for part or for whole for $300.00 (Oklahoma City area) – but you must tow it off. It has the engine you need, plus so much more that can be useful (or sellable). Get what you need and junk the rest off. This example won’t work for you for I’m several states away from you.
In this case, a person could get the engine and fuel injection system (maybe even the transmission) and could knock out a few birds with one stone.
There is a lot of different possibilities. Also, if in doubt, post here what looks attractive and many of us will give our thoughts to the matter.
A 360 Magnum is almost a bolt in engine. I wouldn’t take the 318 Magnum off the table, either – but 42 extra cubic inches is noticeable.
- If using a 318 Magnum, your existing oil pan will work. A 360 will need a 360 car oil pan to fit (it is a different pan than 318).
- You have choice of using existing timing cover, water pump alternator, P/S (if equipped), pulleys and brackets (just transfer your parts to front of the Magnum) OR use the Magnum front components from donor car (helpful if you get engine that way to begin with).
- The 360 engine will need either a 360 car Left side motor mount – or use washers to space out about ¼” cap between block and mount.
- The magnum intake bolts onto engine differently (bolts go straight down instead of 45’ angle on older engines - see pictures, below) – so a person would either need to use the fuel injection system off original engine OR purchase a new intake manifold (as well as carburetor).
- 4-bbl throttle cable is longer than the 2-bbl version is (about $25 for a new cable) or if going fuel injection that might require some fabrication.
- 4-bbl (or F.I.) kickdown linkage (or cable) will need to be located and used.
- A 360 flexplate (externally balanced) will be needed.
- Your existing transmission and starter will fit (but the newer mini starter is highly recommended to use).
- Most everything else will fit without issue.
Fuel system: a carburetor is simple and works for most people. Fuel injection is a lot more precise and is normally easier to diagnosis problems.
There are 4-bbl appearing aftermarket fuel injection systems out there – but a good system costs at/over $1000 (US). The good part is if you already have a 4-bbl intake, they are easy to install and are self-tuning.
The factory has a couple of F.I. systems – throttle body and port fuel injection.
The throttle body system requires a cast iron 2-bbl looking intake and a computer (bolted to firewall or inside car somewhere). It works well if you want to have a factory appearing underhood appearance (important to some people).
The port fuel injection is what comes with the Magnums and it uses a “beer keg” design aluminum intake
If you notice, you can see the difference in intake mounting bolts (bolt direction)
My thoughts are: if you can get something cheap (like Craigslist or similar) where you can get a fuel injection system for free (so to speak) then go for it (Throttle Body Injection or Port Injection).
If not, you will be fine with a carburetor. F.I. is a “nice to have”, but not a “must have”.
Paint is not my “knowledgeable subject”. There are products out there that will clean the paint – making it look 1000% better, then put a layer of wax over it and presto – it looks like a completely different car.
That said, if you plan on painting the car – you will want to avoid wax sense it causes problem when painting (if any wax is present at time of painting). Maybe spending a couple of hours cleaning the paint and waxing – might be helpful.
BudW
RowanAmethyst
Well-Known Member
Thanks BudW for all that info! I have the FSM books, I have a steering wheel puller (somewhere), and I have a good amount of automotive electronics wherewithal, I was just thinking to go cheap and easy. But you're right, the short might be a quick fix, it wouldn't hurt to take a look.
I'm not sure about the engine swap yet. Certainly I can find a 360 Magnum in a local junkyard, but I would probably want some better equipment before trying the install, and there's technically nothing wrong with the 318 that's in it other than the abysmal power rating. My ultimate goal is something I can skid around dirt roads or snow in, just have fun and maybe do some dirt racing/amateur rally if I can find a course nearbyish. I'd like to keep it street legal, at least for now, just so I can drive it on the highway without worrying about getting pulled over. My parents do live in the middle of nowhere, though, so at least I have a slew of back roads where no cop ever goes.
As for the A/C delete, I priced out the brackets and pulleys I'd need and it's not TOO too bad, couple hundred. That'll save a good 80 lbs once that giant compressor is out. The wiper bushings I'm gonna try to do myself, but I do have a friend who has some mechanical skill to help out if my hands aren't good enough to do the job (I'm technically disabled, my right hand has limited mobility).
I'm not sure about the engine swap yet. Certainly I can find a 360 Magnum in a local junkyard, but I would probably want some better equipment before trying the install, and there's technically nothing wrong with the 318 that's in it other than the abysmal power rating. My ultimate goal is something I can skid around dirt roads or snow in, just have fun and maybe do some dirt racing/amateur rally if I can find a course nearbyish. I'd like to keep it street legal, at least for now, just so I can drive it on the highway without worrying about getting pulled over. My parents do live in the middle of nowhere, though, so at least I have a slew of back roads where no cop ever goes.
As for the A/C delete, I priced out the brackets and pulleys I'd need and it's not TOO too bad, couple hundred. That'll save a good 80 lbs once that giant compressor is out. The wiper bushings I'm gonna try to do myself, but I do have a friend who has some mechanical skill to help out if my hands aren't good enough to do the job (I'm technically disabled, my right hand has limited mobility).
Justwondering
Well-Known Member
Rowan--
I hear your pain on the mobility issue.
My left arm is about 2 inches shorter than my right after I fell and broke it (3 plates and 27 pins) to put it back together.
I wish you luck in all your interchanges, exchanges, upgrades, and downgrades.
Bud --
Where you been hiding. That's the longest post you've just about ever done. I'm thinking you are making up for lost time.
I'm going to have to read it again, cause it certainly had some interesting info in there.
JW
I hear your pain on the mobility issue.
My left arm is about 2 inches shorter than my right after I fell and broke it (3 plates and 27 pins) to put it back together.
I wish you luck in all your interchanges, exchanges, upgrades, and downgrades.
Bud --
Where you been hiding. That's the longest post you've just about ever done. I'm thinking you are making up for lost time.
I'm going to have to read it again, cause it certainly had some interesting info in there.
JW
JW, I wouldn’t have known an arm was shorter, back when I met you and your husband – unless you had told me (just now).
I just found out Friday, that I also must work this Saturday (holiday Saturdays are extremely slow, I might as well bring a cot) and the Saturday after next – but then off for a long while.
Son starts soccer in a couple weeks (which his games are also on Saturdays).
Getting rid of the A/C compressor does remove a lot of weight, in an important area (over front wheels). If you have no intention of using A/C – then that will be a big help – and it improves accessibility for most items in front.
It is a lost easier to remove A/C than to add A/C to a non-A/C car.
The A/C condenser, drier (and its bracket), both hoses can easily be removed. I do recommend making a metal plate to block the Expansion valve (to keep bugs/oil/debris out) – or if really into removing weight, remove the evaporator case and either removing the evaporator core and reinstalling – or remove the entire evaporator/heater case.
Note: I do recommend keeping the heater operational – if for nothing else to clear foggy windshields. Driving with your head stuck out the window . . . is not fun.
If your system is currently holding refrigerant – then that can be a selling point on selling your old A/C parts. Matter of fact, I’m looking for a good RV2 compressor (but not its brackets).
If you were to make another post – I can attach pictures of my untouched original ’77 no A/C 318 to give an ideal on how the engine/engine compartment should look.
BudW
I had to work this Saturday so, um, . . . I had nothing else (better) to do?
I just found out Friday, that I also must work this Saturday (holiday Saturdays are extremely slow, I might as well bring a cot) and the Saturday after next – but then off for a long while.
Son starts soccer in a couple weeks (which his games are also on Saturdays).
Getting rid of the A/C compressor does remove a lot of weight, in an important area (over front wheels). If you have no intention of using A/C – then that will be a big help – and it improves accessibility for most items in front.
It is a lost easier to remove A/C than to add A/C to a non-A/C car.
The A/C condenser, drier (and its bracket), both hoses can easily be removed. I do recommend making a metal plate to block the Expansion valve (to keep bugs/oil/debris out) – or if really into removing weight, remove the evaporator case and either removing the evaporator core and reinstalling – or remove the entire evaporator/heater case.
Note: I do recommend keeping the heater operational – if for nothing else to clear foggy windshields. Driving with your head stuck out the window . . . is not fun.
If your system is currently holding refrigerant – then that can be a selling point on selling your old A/C parts. Matter of fact, I’m looking for a good RV2 compressor (but not its brackets).
If you were to make another post – I can attach pictures of my untouched original ’77 no A/C 318 to give an ideal on how the engine/engine compartment should look.
BudW
Justwondering
Well-Known Member
Ah BudW,
Had it all covered up with coats and long sleeves -- it was brutal cold that day.
lol
JW
Had it all covered up with coats and long sleeves -- it was brutal cold that day.
lol
JW
RowanAmethyst
Well-Known Member
Okay, priced out everything on Summit i want to do to up the 318's performance, and it comes up to about $2k. That's not including everything to get it street legal and running properly, that's just upgrades for after everything else is sorted. Anyone in the market for a (heavily used) kidney?
