Bruceynz
Well-Known Member
Sounds good bud, what time is it over there now, just about 8am in NZ on Tuesday 
Yoke Sizes
- Thread starter Bruceynz
- Start date
I’m in Central Time Zone, with Daylight Savings Time, for another week or so – which is GWT or UTC-7.
Right now it is 5:43pm CDT, Monday.
I work the dreaded 11am to 8pm shift – which means my kids are (or should be) asleep when I get home.
BudW
Right now it is 5:43pm CDT, Monday.
I work the dreaded 11am to 8pm shift – which means my kids are (or should be) asleep when I get home.
BudW
Bruceynz
Well-Known Member
Bud, yokey has arrived in nz still a few days away from getting to me
still a few days away from getting to me
Bruceynz
Well-Known Member
Hi Bud, any luck with an ID?
No.
There are no (loose) 904 tailhousing bushings in my inventory.
There are two 904 transmissions in my garage - but still together.
There are a couple of transmission specification books in my bookshelf – and they have measurements/specifications on just about everything – except for this.
Without purchasing a new bushing and measuring it – I’m afraid I’m of no help on this matter.
I do think that something is out-of-round – which would be either the tailhousing (at the bushing) and/or the slip yoke.
The slip yoke is difficult to make out-of-round (and difficult to fix, if it is).
The tailhousing can be quite easy to make out-of-round (dropping the tail end on the ground, etc.), and would be rather difficult to diagnosis or fix in car.
With the tail housing removed, it would be easy to measure (with inside micrometer or with calipers). It could also be fixed fairly easily with a press or large vice. Just lightly squeeze it in small increments, release and re-measure (or insert slip yoke). Repeat as necessary, then reinstall the tail housing assy. The speedometer gear will not need to be removed for this.
BudW
There are no (loose) 904 tailhousing bushings in my inventory.
There are two 904 transmissions in my garage - but still together.
There are a couple of transmission specification books in my bookshelf – and they have measurements/specifications on just about everything – except for this.
Without purchasing a new bushing and measuring it – I’m afraid I’m of no help on this matter.
I do think that something is out-of-round – which would be either the tailhousing (at the bushing) and/or the slip yoke.
The slip yoke is difficult to make out-of-round (and difficult to fix, if it is).
The tailhousing can be quite easy to make out-of-round (dropping the tail end on the ground, etc.), and would be rather difficult to diagnosis or fix in car.
With the tail housing removed, it would be easy to measure (with inside micrometer or with calipers). It could also be fixed fairly easily with a press or large vice. Just lightly squeeze it in small increments, release and re-measure (or insert slip yoke). Repeat as necessary, then reinstall the tail housing assy. The speedometer gear will not need to be removed for this.
BudW
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Bruceynz
Well-Known Member
there seems to be no specs supplied anywhere, but for 727 there is. Weird, my yokey didn't arrive today, maybe he will be here tomorrow. Thanks for looking Bud.
Bruceynz
Well-Known Member
Takes 1 day for yokey to get from LA to Auckland NZ and its been 3 days and it can't get 475 miles to Christchurch, gota love the dedication of NZ post!
Bruceynz
Well-Known Member
Looking like yokey will get here today, sweet! Mystery maybe solved today.
Bruceynz
Well-Known Member
Right it just turned up and I have my vernier at work, she is smaller!
This is the lockup yoke, anyone got any ideas why they changed size or if it will make a difference.
This is the lockup yoke, anyone got any ideas why they changed size or if it will make a difference.
FredMcJoe
Well-Known Member
Lock-up transmissions provide more vibration and noise, maybe that has something to do with it. Was it something that coincided with the tall gear ratio transmission that came out in ....was it 1981?
Bruceynz
Well-Known Member
if you give the bearing 3thou oil tolerance and the yoke is 1.5625" that's 1.5665" bearing ID and then if you put a 1.558" yoke into that your going to have 7.5 thou slop in the tail housing bearing? Me's a finking that is a little to much, rattle rattle rattle
Have you tried to slide it in, yet (before transferring yokes)?
Bruceynz
Well-Known Member
still at work, arrived at 9am ish this morning, may try tonight or Sat, so are there 2 sizes of yokes and one bearing size?
Bruceynz
Well-Known Member
The trans guy here said that his books list 2 different part numbers, one before 78 and one after 78 but there was no description of what the difference was. So I now have a pre 70 trans and a pre 78 yoke size, hoping they make love!
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7T8 Custom
Well-Known Member
78 was when the lock-up torque converters came into production.
Bruceynz
Well-Known Member
Well to my disappointment the new yoke does not fit, so guess trans has to come out, dam it!
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Bruceynz
Well-Known Member
Don’t take the entire transmission out. Just remove the tailhousing.
If you jack up the rear of vehicle (and not level), then you will experience very little (if any) fluid loss. If car is to be jacked up level, then you will need to drain out about 2 quarts (2 L) of fluid, first. If your catch can is clean – then you should be able to reuse the fluid (if drained).
For Extension housing removal/replacement, the only special tool is snap ring pliers and possibly an impact screwdriver to loosen the Philips head screws that hold the plate to the snap ring. Regular snap ring pliers can be used. Use a large pair and make sure it expands when handles are squeezed. In most cases, the impact screwdriver is not needed – except in units that hasn’t been serviced in a long time. Your experience may differ.
An impact screwdriver looks like (if needed):
Below are procedures to remove the extension housing in car.
This is from my ’77 FSM – so some minor differences – but basically will be the same.
The speedometer adaptor will need to come out (you can leave it attached to the cable, if wanted).
Once out, I have a feeling the bushing area will be out of round. If so, take the housing to a vice or press and gently apply pressure the other direction and it will straighten out (at bushing area). Apply too much pressure and think of what happens when you squeeze an empty aluminum can.
After you release pressure, you can use your new yoke to test fit.
BudW
If you jack up the rear of vehicle (and not level), then you will experience very little (if any) fluid loss. If car is to be jacked up level, then you will need to drain out about 2 quarts (2 L) of fluid, first. If your catch can is clean – then you should be able to reuse the fluid (if drained).
For Extension housing removal/replacement, the only special tool is snap ring pliers and possibly an impact screwdriver to loosen the Philips head screws that hold the plate to the snap ring. Regular snap ring pliers can be used. Use a large pair and make sure it expands when handles are squeezed. In most cases, the impact screwdriver is not needed – except in units that hasn’t been serviced in a long time. Your experience may differ.
An impact screwdriver looks like (if needed):
Below are procedures to remove the extension housing in car.
This is from my ’77 FSM – so some minor differences – but basically will be the same.
The speedometer adaptor will need to come out (you can leave it attached to the cable, if wanted).
Once out, I have a feeling the bushing area will be out of round. If so, take the housing to a vice or press and gently apply pressure the other direction and it will straighten out (at bushing area). Apply too much pressure and think of what happens when you squeeze an empty aluminum can.
After you release pressure, you can use your new yoke to test fit.
BudW
Bruceynz
Well-Known Member
trans rebuilt, no oil in there yet! So thats a bonus!
Bruceynz
Well-Known Member
Dropped exhaust, cross member, took trans mount off, got bearing snap ring cover off and ran out of time so a little bit of progress, that snap ring looks a right prick of a thing! The fun begins...
