I have a Grant GT wheel in black if you're interested. You'd have to get the adapter kit, though, as this one came out of a Conquest. It's virtually new other than needing a little touchup on the allen-head screws:
'83 Mirada street/strip project - my official return to FMJ!
- Thread starter 72Dodge
- Start date
kkritsilas
Well-Known Member
Grant make a specific adapter kit for Mopars with tilt steering wheels. For the J bodies, I seem to recall a Grank Kit number 3196 for the regular Grant Challenger, Classic, and Signature series steering wheels. This is for the standard Grant 3 bolt attachment set up. They also show a kit for non-tilt steering wheels as kit 3314.
Link is here:
http://www.grantproducts.com/products/view/242/
Installation instructions are on the same page. The second set of instructions is specific to the signature series.
Kostas
Last edited:
The tilt columns are different because they're made by GM. I used to upset my GM-lovin' buddies by using a Chrysler key to start my Trans Am; the lock cylinder from a '77 Cordoba fit like it was born there.
The tilt column uses the 3196 Grant kit, the non-tilt uses the 3314. Either way, it's a $20 kit to install the steering wheel I posted.
The tilt column uses the 3196 Grant kit, the non-tilt uses the 3314. Either way, it's a $20 kit to install the steering wheel I posted.
72Dodge
Well-Known Member
Thanks guys. Actually I already ordered a Grant Challenger GT wheel and have it, I just didn't post about it. The Grant site told me to get the installation kit #4324 for this particular car with tilt, so that's what I got. I hope it's right. The Grant site did not direct me to the 3196 kit at all. ?!
On the Summit site, if I go through the applications chart, it shows 3196 for Mirada 1980-1981, and kit 4324 for Mirada 1982-1983 (with tilt). So, I'm pretty sure I have the right one with both Grant and Summit telling me that it's 4324. I don't have access to the car right now, so can't check either way.
On the Summit site, if I go through the applications chart, it shows 3196 for Mirada 1980-1981, and kit 4324 for Mirada 1982-1983 (with tilt). So, I'm pretty sure I have the right one with both Grant and Summit telling me that it's 4324. I don't have access to the car right now, so can't check either way.
Last edited:
kkritsilas
Well-Known Member
I looked up a 1980 Cordoba, thinking they were all the same from 1980-1983. My bad. They must have changed over the tilt wheels only, the 3314 kit is still being called out for a non-tilt column in 1982. Maybe Chrysler started building their own tilt columns, or just went to a different supplier.
Kostas
Kostas
Last edited:
I'm not sure. I think it's maybe something to do with the upper column housing. The tilt columns were Saginaw until the end of the "true" RWD era in '89, even on the FWD cars. The ignition switch stayed the same, and the lock cylinder changed only to accommodate the later plastic-head keys around '86... but it will still fit the earlier columns.
72Dodge
Well-Known Member
Really looking forward to working on this again, probably sometime this month once it warms up a bit. I've collected most of what I need to put the engine in. Still need to get a radiator, and maybe a couple other little things (I have a list, very organized).
My priority will be to just get it running/driving again, but I'm also thinking about the body. Part of the reason I picked this car up is due to the "retro cool" look of it with the scoop, front spoiler and rear spoiler, but I'm thinking of simplifying it. Not sure how I feel about the 64-67 hood scoop anymore. It's a real hack job, so it would require a complete re-work to get it to fit right. And yes, there is a big hole cut in the hood.
Thinking about picking up a flat fiberglass hood from VFN (just south of me), and maybe their fiberglass rear clip section for later just in case.
What do you guys think... work with the Hemi scoop to make it right, or go with a flat hood (and probably then remove both spoilers also)?
I was also watching a couple videos about the plasti-dip (or Eastwood's version elasti-dip) as a quick and cheap refinish solution after fixing the few minor body issues it has and removing the few areas of light body rust and epoxying those areas. About $300 for everything to "paint" it, and if something gets scratched (torn?), just re-elasti-dip that section. I don't know, just something I'm considering, might not be that bad for this particular project.
My priority will be to just get it running/driving again, but I'm also thinking about the body. Part of the reason I picked this car up is due to the "retro cool" look of it with the scoop, front spoiler and rear spoiler, but I'm thinking of simplifying it. Not sure how I feel about the 64-67 hood scoop anymore. It's a real hack job, so it would require a complete re-work to get it to fit right. And yes, there is a big hole cut in the hood.
Thinking about picking up a flat fiberglass hood from VFN (just south of me), and maybe their fiberglass rear clip section for later just in case.
What do you guys think... work with the Hemi scoop to make it right, or go with a flat hood (and probably then remove both spoilers also)?
I was also watching a couple videos about the plasti-dip (or Eastwood's version elasti-dip) as a quick and cheap refinish solution after fixing the few minor body issues it has and removing the few areas of light body rust and epoxying those areas. About $300 for everything to "paint" it, and if something gets scratched (torn?), just re-elasti-dip that section. I don't know, just something I'm considering, might not be that bad for this particular project.
Jack Meoff
Mopar Maniac
Tough call for me....I do like the look of the scoop
I guess it's "owners choice"....
Clean and simple or bad attitude.
Either way looks killer with that car.
I guess it's "owners choice"....
Clean and simple or bad attitude.
Either way looks killer with that car.
72Dodge
Well-Known Member
LOL... That's a good enough answer for me, actually. I like it both ways too, that's the problem. Guess there's no wrong answer. It looks like an '80s almost-monstrosity with all the appendages, which is sort of appropriate for a retro-cool '80s style street machine!
Jack Meoff
Mopar Maniac
Either way she's gonna be a total head turner...
72Dodge
Well-Known Member
Thanks! 
Reading more about Plasti-Dip. Really seems like it's the way to go on this one, especially doing it easily in my garage.
Reading more about Plasti-Dip. Really seems like it's the way to go on this one, especially doing it easily in my garage.
Jack Meoff
Mopar Maniac
If you go that route post some pics
I'm curious to see how well it works.
I'm curious to see how well it works.
72Dodge
Well-Known Member
Oh, there will be pics and more on everything I do starting soon. I'm well off from anything like an exterior refinish of course.
For what it's worth, I don't think any of the muscle-era scoops look good on these M or J cars. The body styling is just too angular. That being said, if a guy just had to run a scoop then you've got the best one for the car since the scoop's angular as well. The F-bodies can get away with the dual-inlet A-body scoop, which looks OK, but I prefer them without it.
The years have changed me. When I was a kid, I loved all the tacky, add-on geegaws that the factory offered. My '71 Super Bee was built with F/R spoilers, Ramcharger hood, stripes, bazooka tips, you name it. The only thing I could've added externally were the R/T doors with the vertical strakes that Super Bees didn't get, R/T taillamps (painted-bumper Bees had them, chrome no) and hood pins, which weren't available with the car's hideaway headlamps. Now I'd rather have the '71 "ad" SE with its flat hood and lack of garish decoration. I guess I'd rather be subtle and give the car an intimidating look with the right color, stance, and wheels. My two cents' worth, and it comes with a money-back guarantee.
BTW, if you need a stock uncut flat hood, I'm pretty sure I can get you one filthy cheap if not for free. Having sold both VFN and Glasstek in the past, I was never particularly impressed with either's quality, and unless you're getting the "race" hood the weight savings are minimal. The race hood will not accept hinges with springs, if at all, and at highway speed flutters like Betty Boop's eyelashes.
The years have changed me. When I was a kid, I loved all the tacky, add-on geegaws that the factory offered. My '71 Super Bee was built with F/R spoilers, Ramcharger hood, stripes, bazooka tips, you name it. The only thing I could've added externally were the R/T doors with the vertical strakes that Super Bees didn't get, R/T taillamps (painted-bumper Bees had them, chrome no) and hood pins, which weren't available with the car's hideaway headlamps. Now I'd rather have the '71 "ad" SE with its flat hood and lack of garish decoration. I guess I'd rather be subtle and give the car an intimidating look with the right color, stance, and wheels. My two cents' worth, and it comes with a money-back guarantee.
BTW, if you need a stock uncut flat hood, I'm pretty sure I can get you one filthy cheap if not for free. Having sold both VFN and Glasstek in the past, I was never particularly impressed with either's quality, and unless you're getting the "race" hood the weight savings are minimal. The race hood will not accept hinges with springs, if at all, and at highway speed flutters like Betty Boop's eyelashes.
72Dodge
Well-Known Member
Agree. Angular is the only reason this scoop looks okay. And conversely, it's why I don't like the go-wing on this car, or really any car other than a fuselage b-body.
Yep, me too. 20 years ago if you'd told me I'd have a stock /6 and would want to keep it that way, I'd never have believed you. I now like 4-doors, wagons, woodgrain, stock steel wheels, heck even wheel covers on the right car.
Yeah, if I come up for some other reason, it'd probably be a great idea to pick up a hood. Like I said, plenty of time before I'm even ready for the body, but a stock flat hood would be a nice thing to have either way. If I did go fiberglass, it would be attached with 4 pins. A lot of the details will be decided once it's moving and stopping on it's own again.
72Dodge
Well-Known Member
Anyone help me out with the power steering gear pressure hose connecting piece and some brackets? I know there's a ton of parts cars out there!
http://www.forfmjbodiesonly.com/classicmopar/showthread.php?2836-WTB-part-of-power-steering-gear-box
http://www.forfmjbodiesonly.com/classicmopar/showthread.php?2836-WTB-part-of-power-steering-gear-box
I just went and looked in my garage, and confirmed that everything power-steering related I had went to the crusher, even the pulleys. However, I will be ripping all that garbage off my Imperial, which is currently a complete running car. As to when, that I can't confirm.
I read your thread about the interference with the motor plates. If you'd rather go back to the "correct" way of mounting the engine, I do have a set of big-block spool mounts. If the tabs are still on your K, you could trim them off, bolt them to the mounts and the mounts to the engine, and weld the brackets where they need to be on the K member. It's a thought. I'm not a big fan of elephant ears since they transmit every single engine vibration directly to the body, but on the flip side they do help triangulate the frame stubs to some extent.
I read your thread about the interference with the motor plates. If you'd rather go back to the "correct" way of mounting the engine, I do have a set of big-block spool mounts. If the tabs are still on your K, you could trim them off, bolt them to the mounts and the mounts to the engine, and weld the brackets where they need to be on the K member. It's a thought. I'm not a big fan of elephant ears since they transmit every single engine vibration directly to the body, but on the flip side they do help triangulate the frame stubs to some extent.
72Dodge
Well-Known Member
The tabs have been cut off the K. I'm going with a small block motor plate (already have it). Thanks though! Those goofy big block mounts are going away no matter what, not sure why he even thought he had to do that.
Yeah, it shouldn't be a big deal finding the power steering parts I need, I'm sure, I just like to put feelers out early. I can install the engine and such, then mess with that later if I don't have them by then.
I'd LOVE to take tomorrow off work, supposed to be in the '50s, but I really do have to be at work tomorrow, unfortunately.
[P.S. Not sure that was my thread with the interference with the motor plates? Not sure... I've written so much and have had so many thoughts about this build, I really can't be sure. I know I have never intended to put a big block in this (at least not now) and have never planned on keeping the custom big block mounts in any case.]
[And P.P.S. - Thank you very much for going to look for the parts. Appreciate it.]
Yeah, it shouldn't be a big deal finding the power steering parts I need, I'm sure, I just like to put feelers out early. I can install the engine and such, then mess with that later if I don't have them by then.
I'd LOVE to take tomorrow off work, supposed to be in the '50s, but I really do have to be at work tomorrow, unfortunately.
[P.S. Not sure that was my thread with the interference with the motor plates? Not sure... I've written so much and have had so many thoughts about this build, I really can't be sure. I know I have never intended to put a big block in this (at least not now) and have never planned on keeping the custom big block mounts in any case.]
[And P.P.S. - Thank you very much for going to look for the parts. Appreciate it.]
Last edited:
