Sagging passenger side

Intrepolicious

Intrepolicious

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I've had this car for a few weeks now. Getting one thing done at a time. (The trans rebuild was first!) now that that's out of the way, I've noticed that the passenger (right) side is sagging, or lower than the driver side. What do I need to look into first?
 
Funny thing is.. I don't remember it being this way a couple weeks ago when I bought the car.
 
I assume you mean the front end is off??? Start by giving it all a good once over with the eyeball's, just to be sure there's nothing going horribly wrong and about to come apart.
You can try adjusting the torsion bars to level it out. Just remember, the adjusting bolt for the right side bar is on the left side of the car and vice-versa. This is providing the sag isn't caused by the rear springs, i.e. a broken leaf or something similar.
 
If you were in West Virginia, I'd suggest the mountain's incline was causing the problem.
But since you seem to be in Florida, maybe the passenger side is too near sinkhole.

But then, I was chastised for being a smart-ass earlier today so this is could just be more of that.
:eek:
 
Aspen500 said:
I assume you mean the front end is off??? Start by giving it all a good once over with the eyeball's, just to be sure there's nothing going horribly wrong and about to come apart.
You can try adjusting the torsion bars to level it out. Just remember, the adjusting bolt for the right side bar is on the left side of the car and vice-versa. This is providing the sag isn't caused by the rear springs, i.e. a broken leaf or something similar.
Click to expand...
I'll have to take a look at everything tomorrow in the daylight. Thanks!
 
jasperjacko said:
Did you just get a bigger girlfriend?
Click to expand...
lol if I just let her drive, my problem would be solved! haha!
Justwondering said:
If you were in West Virginia, I'd suggest the mountain's incline was causing the problem.
But since you seem to be in Florida, maybe the passenger side is too near sinkhole.

But then, I was chastised for being a smart-ass earlier today so this is could just be more of that.
:eek:
Click to expand...

Funny! I thought that it had been the way, and where I was parked at first, but now I've noticed it several places, and can't "un-see" it. There's definitely something going on with the suspension. I'll post pics tomorrow..
 
Ok today I jacked up the car and put the front end up on stands, took the wheel off the passenger side (the side I suspect to be "off") and had a look. Nothing seemed out of the ordinary, though I DO need to replace the lower passenger side steering linkage bushing (Anyone got a part # for this one?) I might as well order the whole steering linkage "kit" eventually because everything down there is just as old, but for now.. that one in particular needs to be fixed asap.

A made some small adjustments to the problem side with the torsion bar adjuster bolt to where the car seems to be level now. I guess now I'll need to get an alignment?
 
Oh, and I just purchased a FSM on eBay today.. got to have one!

Anyway, I was looking around online; Rockauto lists the "Pitman arm" and the "idler arm". I'm assuming the Pitman is the driver side "control" arm, and the idler arm is the one in the passenger side. I need the bushing at the lower end on the idler arm (where the cotter pin is)

Any where to buy just this bushing? Everywhere I look, I can only find the whole Pitman and Idler arms. Is this because the bushings are pressed in?
 
The pitman arm is attached to the steering gear and the idler arm has a through bolt on the passengers side. The idler is replaced as an assembly (bushing not replaceable).

If your pitman arm isn't loose at the center link joint, I'd leave it alone. You need a socket to fit the nut and also a pitman arm puller. It's on a splined, tapered shaft and the nut will be VERY tight. Usually you pretty much need to use an air impact gun on the nut.
Replacing the idler won't change the alignment, providing it was right BEFORE the idler went loose. However, an alignment is not a bad idea, especially on a car you just bought. It's cheaper than tires. Depending on where you live, alignments aren't that much. We charge $59.95 at the shop I work at for example. Your price may vary of course.
 
One thing I have found and it was already mentioned is that more commonly,rear springs go soft. So empty the trunk first! Roll the car back at least 6 ft and then forwards again. Park the car on a flat concrete area.

Roll a floorjack under the rear diff. On the saddle should be something to let the rearend rock from side to side. Something like a steel ball would be nice but I have used round bars, any size. So center the bar under the diff and get the wheels off the ground.
Now go find a reasonably level point in the wheelhouse lip, and measure down to the ground. Repeat on the other side from the same reference point.Compare the two. Rarely will they be identical, but I suppose a quarter inch tolerance, to as much as 3/8" would be OK. This is the time to crank the T-bars up and down. Crank the high side down and the low side up, in equal amounts. Then jounce the suspension, measure, and repeat until you are satisfied.
When the front is thus leveled, drop the rear end down.Roll her back 6 ft, and forward again. Then jack the rearend back up on the balance pin. Now off to the front and remeasure. Adjust as necessary. Repeat as often as necessary to be satisfied.
Drop the rearend down. Jounce her a couple of times.
Now eyeball her. Remeasure the fronts. If they are not level, when they just were, it is because the rear is crooked.Go verify that.
 
Aspen500 said:
The pitman arm is attached to the steering gear and the idler arm has a through bolt on the passengers side. The idler is replaced as an assembly (bushing not replaceable).

If your pitman arm isn't loose at the center link joint, I'd leave it alone. You need a socket to fit the nut and also a pitman arm puller. It's on a splined, tapered shaft and the nut will be VERY tight. Usually you pretty much need to use an air impact gun on the nut.
Replacing the idler won't change the alignment, providing it was right BEFORE the idler went loose. However, an alignment is not a bad idea, especially on a car you just bought. It's cheaper than tires. Depending on where you live, alignments aren't that much. We charge $59.95 at the shop I work at for example. Your price may vary of course.
Click to expand...
The Pitman arm looks ok, and everything's tight on that side. The idler however, is sloppy and in need of replacement. I thought that maybe I could just replace the bushings, but I guess I need to buy the whole arm, and what it's attached to (the drag link?).
 
Technically it's a center link, not drag link. Just me picking nits, lol.

Drag link is actually a link that goes from the pitman arm to the right steering knuckle. Then there's another link (tie rod) that goes between the 2 steering knuckles. Only used on straight (solid) axle vehicles. Again, just picking nits.
 
This is so cool.
I am finally following a conversation/thread where I know exactly what you are talking about because I replaced that dang idler arm last year.
And to think, before I got the car and joined this forum I was completely in the dark about all this.
You guys rock!
 
Justwondering said:
If you were in West Virginia, I'd suggest the mountain's incline was causing the problem.
But since you seem to be in Florida, maybe the passenger side is too near sinkhole.

But then, I was chastised for being a smart-ass earlier today so this is could just be more of that.
:eek:
Click to expand...
So the chastisement did not stop you !!
 
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