MBDale
Well-Known Member
Anybody ever run an Edelbrock Water pump? Edelbrock number 8877? I’m thinking of picking up one and a Champion Radiator CC526. Thanks!
Edelbrock Water Pump
- Thread starter MBDale
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Oldiron440
Well-Known Member
I use them on my bb and sbf.
MiradaMegacab
Well-Known Member
I hear it is the same as a PRW water pump, which is cheaper.
Oldiron440
Well-Known Member
Never heard that
I’m not here to make an argument – but was wondering/curious what is wrong with the factory style water pump?
I can understand why drag racers using an electric pump (which is not that great for street usage).
Just spending $200 (or so) more for a water pump – that I don’t see any advantage over stock design.
The small blocks are not known to have overheating problems – but do have an occasional bearing or seal failures.
A new water pump (Chrysler design) water pump from my local parts store is either $21 (MasterPro brand) or $37 (Murray brand).
No reman pumps are available (yahoo!).
Is there something I'm missing?
BudW
I can understand why drag racers using an electric pump (which is not that great for street usage).
Just spending $200 (or so) more for a water pump – that I don’t see any advantage over stock design.
The small blocks are not known to have overheating problems – but do have an occasional bearing or seal failures.
A new water pump (Chrysler design) water pump from my local parts store is either $21 (MasterPro brand) or $37 (Murray brand).
No reman pumps are available (yahoo!).
Is there something I'm missing?
BudW
Oldiron440
Well-Known Member
Use stock copy made in china, it doesn't matter to me.
On my Ford it was the only manufacturer that had all the various pumps for sbf, and the are many. Belt alignment issues avoided.
On the 500 I think its just the difference in a quality perspective, I've never had a problem with cooling street driving it. It's had an OEM pump all this time but it gets to a point when you need to step up. I plan on street driving more than 50 percent off the time so the eldelbrock got the job. It's a quality part that's rebiuildable and probably over priced.
On my Ford it was the only manufacturer that had all the various pumps for sbf, and the are many. Belt alignment issues avoided.
On the 500 I think its just the difference in a quality perspective, I've never had a problem with cooling street driving it. It's had an OEM pump all this time but it gets to a point when you need to step up. I plan on street driving more than 50 percent off the time so the eldelbrock got the job. It's a quality part that's rebiuildable and probably over priced.
MiradaMegacab
Well-Known Member
PRW and Edelbrock
Oldiron440
Well-Known Member
How much different do you expect them to look?
Are they both rebiuildable?
Do they have the same parts?
The thing is I'm not going to spend the money on my driver with a $4000 long block in it but the tallie is a bit more than I can spend on either one of the motors again, so they have good parts. It also keeps me from posting, pissing and moaning about my hotrods overheating, what do I do? Lol
Maybe you have discovered a trade secret or just one more China copy.
Are they both rebiuildable?
Do they have the same parts?
The thing is I'm not going to spend the money on my driver with a $4000 long block in it but the tallie is a bit more than I can spend on either one of the motors again, so they have good parts. It also keeps me from posting, pissing and moaning about my hotrods overheating, what do I do? Lol
Maybe you have discovered a trade secret or just one more China copy.
MiradaMegacab
Well-Known Member
It’s been long rumored to be the same pump at approximately half the cost.
I run stock AutoZone replacement pumps in my DD.
On the street/strip cars I run the PRW, the pump will not cavitate (supposedly) at upper RPM’s. Plus there’s threaded heater core and thermostat bypass fittings (I don’t run a heater core or a thermostat bypass) which is safer than using those cheap rubber blank caps on a stock pump.
Oldiron440
Well-Known Member
On a bb the cost difference between cast iron and aluminum is big, the difference between say a mopar pump aluminum and the eldelbrock isn't.
Oldiron440
Well-Known Member
As far as the finish being better than the eldelbrock goes, the Chinese parts usually are smoother.
4speedjim
Well-Known Member
I was just researching electric water pumps. They in general came with good recommendations. Street and track. Several had 20,000 miles on them. Benefits are you can continue circulating coolant after shut down and it can be wired through the temp gauge - intermittent, the acc circuit or a switch for continues running which a surprising amount of people did. There a bit spendy, but a good fan motor, belt and cog pulleys with a couple hours to fab and your Mr Cool. 1500 RPM stock pump moves 40-60 gpm I read several places and it cools built motors with restrictors and with/without T-Stat or the never get to 180 190.
Oldiron440
Well-Known Member
I've use the Moroso electric belt drive setup at the strìp and it works fine, but within two miles on street it can't keep up.
shadango
Well-Known Member
It doesnt matter what the FRONT of the pump looks like IMHO, aside from the bolt bosses being correct and no belt interference.
It's what is behind the scenes that matters.
I run an aftermarket pump on my LA 318 in the Cuda and on the slant in the Volare......about $110 for the slant 6.
Flowcooler
FlowKooler Hi Flow Water Pumps
It's what is behind the scenes that matters.
I run an aftermarket pump on my LA 318 in the Cuda and on the slant in the Volare......about $110 for the slant 6.
Flowcooler
FlowKooler Hi Flow Water Pumps
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I was Impressed with the above-mentioned website. The explanations they gave, gave me a reason to want one of their pumps (which I probably will on my “non-stock” builds).
BudW
shadango
Well-Known Member
I, too, was impressed by their explanations and thats why I bought in some time back.
FWIW, I have noticed my SB stays cooler on the gauge in summer heat.
Now that's not a scientific statement.
But it sure seems like it does.
Plus, with the whole issue of imported parts being trustworthy or not, seemed like a no brainer to me to try them.
Happy so far.
XfbodyX
Well-Known Member
I can understand why drag racers using an electric pump (which is not that great for street usage).
Just spending $200 (or so) more for a water pump – that I don’t see any advantage over stock design.
Alot of cars that are street strip run the higher end ele pumps that are $325 give or take are flawless under any condition and are consistent in cooling. One added plus is unlike when shutting down a oem setup that then lets the motor build heat/boil fuel ect, if you sit there no more then three minutes with the ele fans and pump on (engine off) your down to 120 degrees which is hardly rapid cooling. Done right you can put the proper sensors in and it will do it all for you like a modern car that the fan runs when shut down. It is also quicker to build heat in a motor when needed since many run a modified T state (the three little bypass holes) that a manual pump would still flow some on a cold start.
I stopped using cheap parts store china units years ago because I dont like changing a pump one time let alone 2-3 times and scuffing parts along the way.
I use several of the older B cool pumps, alot like the flow cooler units but both now use a billet impeller vs a modified oem unit like in the pick below.
The edelbrock and the PRW are the same pump and from as much as I could tell the same guts, I have both, the edelbrock didnt last long the prw is going on three years of use and is a great option if you dont run a heater so you dont have the jacked up looking looped hose.
There are now several knockoff ele pumps for approx 150$ if you goggle the ford pn or chevy it seems many have had no issues with the lower cost ele pumps that you can day in day out.
I used to have one of the belt drive units on my bracket car, as posted track only, 80-s tech but there purpose was to run the pump with the motor off as well while in between runs.
Just spending $200 (or so) more for a water pump – that I don’t see any advantage over stock design.
Alot of cars that are street strip run the higher end ele pumps that are $325 give or take are flawless under any condition and are consistent in cooling. One added plus is unlike when shutting down a oem setup that then lets the motor build heat/boil fuel ect, if you sit there no more then three minutes with the ele fans and pump on (engine off) your down to 120 degrees which is hardly rapid cooling. Done right you can put the proper sensors in and it will do it all for you like a modern car that the fan runs when shut down. It is also quicker to build heat in a motor when needed since many run a modified T state (the three little bypass holes) that a manual pump would still flow some on a cold start.
I stopped using cheap parts store china units years ago because I dont like changing a pump one time let alone 2-3 times and scuffing parts along the way.
I use several of the older B cool pumps, alot like the flow cooler units but both now use a billet impeller vs a modified oem unit like in the pick below.
The edelbrock and the PRW are the same pump and from as much as I could tell the same guts, I have both, the edelbrock didnt last long the prw is going on three years of use and is a great option if you dont run a heater so you dont have the jacked up looking looped hose.
There are now several knockoff ele pumps for approx 150$ if you goggle the ford pn or chevy it seems many have had no issues with the lower cost ele pumps that you can day in day out.
I used to have one of the belt drive units on my bracket car, as posted track only, 80-s tech but there purpose was to run the pump with the motor off as well while in between runs.
M_Body_Coupe
Well-Known Member
Speaking of the pumps with the anti-cavitation plate...I currently have the HD OEM piece on my ride, but I've wondered several times if I should yank the thing and put on the plate I picked up at a swap me (it's a kit, retained to the pump impelers with 4 rivets, sort of like the pic XfbodyX showed).
Anyways, has anyone done this type of a switch and have you found the anti-cavitation modification to work? Did the temp drop?
Anyways, has anyone done this type of a switch and have you found the anti-cavitation modification to work? Did the temp drop?
I’ve not seen that kit before.
The only thing that worries me is having enough space between the water pump and the timing cover. If a person leaves off a small block water pump gasket – the water pump impeller will rub against the timing cover. I would think adding a thickness of metal onto the impeller – might be about the same thickness as the gasket – which might lead to trouble.
Also, I have seen a couple of small block water pump bearing failures – in which the vehicle owner kept driving car, until a hole was rubbed through the timing cover. Coolant doesn’t lubricate any. Some might say coolant/water is an anti-oil, which can cause a lot of long term engine bearing damage (I don’t want to get into that debate – other than wanting to toss a Nerf football at owner’s head for continuing to drive a car making tons of racket and to cause other problems with their car).
BudW
The only thing that worries me is having enough space between the water pump and the timing cover. If a person leaves off a small block water pump gasket – the water pump impeller will rub against the timing cover. I would think adding a thickness of metal onto the impeller – might be about the same thickness as the gasket – which might lead to trouble.
Also, I have seen a couple of small block water pump bearing failures – in which the vehicle owner kept driving car, until a hole was rubbed through the timing cover. Coolant doesn’t lubricate any. Some might say coolant/water is an anti-oil, which can cause a lot of long term engine bearing damage (I don’t want to get into that debate – other than wanting to toss a Nerf football at owner’s head for continuing to drive a car making tons of racket and to cause other problems with their car).
BudW
