Volare 77 /6 to 400

[Oldiron440]

On using the Ford 8.8 if you can locate one from an 96 or newer Explorer it will have disk breaks and 31 spine axles. Ford used track-lock differentials very often with gears as deep as 4.10. You can narrow one side and use two short side axles. If you would like I can post a link to a Ford site that explains how to do it.

 

[Aspen500]

If you can save weight, good deal. My car (500"/727) weighs a svelte 3,900 lbs without me in it.

I've got a 440 Source pass side outlet pump housing, not sure what revision it is though but, absolutely zero cooling system trouble. 90 degree day, A/C on max, up a long steep hill in a 35 mph zone and the gauge never goes above center (stock gauge).

IIRC, I originally (back in '87) was going to use the HP exhaust manifolds but the pass side one exited directly over the sub frame rail and the drivers side would have the outlet inside the car. Needless to say, that will never work, lol. Not sure what car or year they were off of though. They looked different than the ones in the photo's in previous posts.

BudW, the oil filter is still a PITA, kind of. At least on my car, need to remove the fan, shroud and p.s belt OR the battery and tray. Since I only have to do it once a year, not that big a deal. Also have to use a small diameter filter (k-frame bracket is notched for the high volume pump) and the darn thing STILL won't fit out anywhere from underneath. Gosh darn transverse torsion bars anyway!

 

[Aka601]

Seems to be the same as yours. My is the one as in post nr 12. Will look at the casting nr tomorrow.
Yes, raising the engine from below is a good idea, but I want to be able to remove the valve cover now and then so I opt for the small tandem booster. Hope it will clear the covers.
Many years ago I had a 69 440 4speed charger and installd headers. Mutch better performance but lot of heat and noice also rusted in a day or two. For now cast iron will do. Hopefully I can beat my son in his late model Mustang GT whitout headers.

 

[Aspen500]

I've got Schumacher ceramic coated headers and love them. Zero leaks, no rust and they fit perfectly. Only need to remove the steering shaft during install on drivers side (from below), pass side slides right in from above and with a low deck, they'd fit even easier. Not as all out performance as long tubes but a ton better than even HP stock manifolds. A bit on the pricey side (OK, a LOT on the pricey side)

but I've never had a moment of buyer's remorse.

 

[Aka601]

Oldiron 440. Yes please post the link on the 8.8.
Not sure yet if I am going to short it or keep it as it is and adjust whit back spacing the rims. Then the iso clamp stuff. Not sure yet how I will do. Keep it or junk it. Input welcome.

 

[Aka601]

Looks good Aspen 500! How many miles on them?

 

[Aspen500]

The headers have been on the car since 2012 and I'd guess about 3,000 miles roughly. The valve cover was off to check the valve adjustment when the photo was taken. With the ceramic coating, they'll pretty much look like they do forever.

 

[Aka601]

Impressive! Your headers looks brand new.
My HP manifold casting nr is 3751068 and 37510771.
Well, still waiting for valvesprings and meanwhile doing a few side projects. One is trying to remove pistons from my sadly seized -73 440. Four is out but now I have to lift the crank to clear (I hope) the others. Also helping a friend with a 318 marin engine. Very interesting for me to see the differences between marin vs car engines.

 

[Aspen500]

I just noticed you're in Sweden so, what you are doing is impressive. Can't imagine parts are easily come by in the land of Volvo's and Saab's (or am I wrong?).

As I mentioned, the headers were pricey but they turned out to be worth every dollar (IMO).
http://www.engine-swaps.com/Pages/ProductsType/BRB_Headers.html

 

[Aka601]

Yes Volvo is king over here. Saab do not exist any more as a car maker. New parts for old and new US cars are no problems but findig US parts at junk yards are very slim whit a few exeptions like vans and
trucks.

 

[Aspen500]

Finding parts in junkyards for F/M/J body here is very slim also. In my part of the country, it's less than slim. About the oldest cars/trucks in any yard are 2000, with a few late '90's thrown in. Anything before that is loooooooong gone by now. Thank you state of Wisconsin DOT and your winter road salt.

Side note: I had the "pleasure" of doing a head gasket on a '98 Saab 900 a couple weeks ago. All I can say is, they had a unique way of building a car. I'm trying to be nice, lol. Volvo's are unique also but there aren't very many around here and Saab's are far and few between so it's rare either one of those come into the shop I work at. The majority have already rusted away, or the engines blew up (literally) and they've been scrapped.

 

[Oldiron440]

I must be old because I can remember the door glass sliding back to open the window on a Saab.
I think in fourty years of doing body work I worked on one, it belonged to a co worker of my wife.

 

[4speedjim]

This is very impressive and chock full of great info thats often glossed over. I love the red and wow did you lay it down nice! Oliron440 has a great picture of his white F body in his cams thread and IMO its Bitchin'! I love that pro stock look! I have an 8.8 disc brake 3.73 for my '81 Cordoba when I get my 400/470 18 spline 4 speed together. Your really a very skilled craftsman and Thanks for all the pictures and info. Its a valuable thread!

 

[BudW]

. . . when I get my 400/470 18 spline 4 speed together.

4speedJim, are you going with the big block, then?
The last we spoke, you were undecided and leaning more towards a small block.
BudW

 

[Aspen500]

Go big or go home

 

[Oldiron440]

Here is a link to an article or forum on the 8.8 swap.in a Ford forum. There is just about all the information needed for a swap, I did the swap but used 9" ends and new axles.

 

[Aka601]

Have two Volvos as dayly drivers. Some Volvos even had transvers mounted aluminium V8 built by Yamaha.
Yes Saab always did odd constuctions and I did never liket them.
Thank you 4speedjim! As soon as my motor is redy I go hunting for a 8.8. I plan not to shortsen the axle. Think nobody will pull the short side axle shaft and sell it separately. I also considering using the ISO clamps and springs that came with the car. I have access to a well equipped workshop. I can do some fabricating myself. (Not by any meens a experienced metal worker).

 

[4speedjim]

BudW, I had thoughts of going Small Block for simplicity and handling since I have a field full of 5.9's and a couple EQ heads to start with. But that's all I have for a SB starting point. Since Ive accumulated much of what I need for my B block, Ive decided to use that and the 727 off the RV my RB came out of. BTW What gear do you run in yours?

 

[BudW]

I’m not going to say anything objectional about using a Ford 8.8 or 9-inch differential – for the choice of decent differentials might be in short supply there.

If the differential you use has 3” diameter tubes on it (76.2 mm) – then you can either use the factory style ISO-Clamp system (which you already have) or upgrade to the older style shock plate style.
I highly encourage you to consider the shock plate method for several reasons (simplicity, much stronger, car will sit higher (in rear) and a much-improved ride). Also, it will better to contain tire hop on takeoff or braking (not eliminate – but will be better).

More than likely, you will need new spring perches. The perches from old differential can be cut off and re-welded – but generally it is cheaper and easier just to get a new set.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mopar-Performance-P4120074-Universal-Spring-Perch-Brackets/310637358925?epid=675729092&hash=item48536def4d:g:0e0AAOSw8axaBuoD:rk:3f:0

This part is almost universal. If it looks like this and is for a 3" tube, then most likely it will fit. FMJ has the perches at 44.46" centers (1129.25 mm)

New U-bolts might be needed – but I highly recommend new U-bolts anyway. Working with 30-40 year-old U-bolts is not fun, nor safe (regardless if re-using the ISO-Clamp system, or not). The older shock plate U-bolts are longer than ISO-Clamp U-bolts are.

The ISO-Clamp U-bolt (Chrysler calls this a “Clip”) part number is 3845262 (or 3845264) – 4x is needed.
3845262 is 4-1/8” long (7/16-20 Thread). 3845264 is 4-3/8” long
The locking nut part number is 0152347 or 6023019 – 8x is needed.

If going with the older shock plate needs a longer U-bolt. Part number 3491296 (6-5/8” long) will work for 4 or 5-leaf springs.
Same part number for locking nut.

A person can probably find the above-mentioned parts aftermarket or at most spring shops.
The inner diameter of the U-bolts is 3 inches (76.2 mm) or slightly wider.


Typically, the ISO-Clamp rubber biscuits will be wore out – if not broken into pieces when you work with them. sometimes not. These rubber biscuits are not available separately (I hadn’t seen a new (rubber) one in decades). There are a couple of company’s making replacements in urethane – which is decent substitute (see below) – but the metal portion of the clamp is still a weak link. The blue circle is to show you the weakness are – and I have seen several fail in that location. If/when the clamp breaks, the leaf spring will be on the ground and tire will be touching the fender well. The only way to move car is to have it towed.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ens-5-6106g/overview/year/1977/make/plymouth/model/volare
The above picture (and link) is for urethane replacements

The older spring clamps are being reproduced by several company’s and decent old ones are still out there.

Used

Repop
Note: using an older shock plate will require a different rear shock ('65-70 B-body)

ISO delete kit
http://www.firmfeel.com/fmj_body_mopar_iso_delete_kit.html
The Firm Feel kit will allow you to reuse your existing shock.
By the way, I do not like working on the FMJ shocks - which is another benefit to using the older shock plates.

Hopefully this helps.
BudW

 

[BudW]

BTW What gear do you run in yours?

Is this question to be directed to Aka601?