if you have a factory shop manual the wiring diagram section will be your friend, because the original wire color will tell you what these wires are supposed to do. Then it will be a matter of finding out is there someplace to route these wires to make them functional? You have a lot of wire tracing / testing ahead of you. I have always enjoyed wiring projects, . . .
I can’t disagree with that.
For my own projects – on a non-time pressing matter, I don’t mind taking time to check every wire, checking for both shorts and open circuits. On time-pressed events (ie: wife’s car won’t start, and she wants it fixed . . . yesterday) then I must seek other avenues.
In your case I see added electrical parts (driver’s fender) and subtracted electrical parts (passenger side and firewall) – so there will be some electrical digging, needed.
First, I would get a FSM (Factory Service Manual), like this one (the first one I found on eBay with both books – but you might have several other options)
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1981-Chrysler-CORDOBA-IMPERIAL-Workshop-Service-Shop-Repair-Manual-Set-OEM/352358147867?hash=item520a2ea71b:g:GnIAAMXQjWtROm9W:rk:10
f:0 .
I have a heavy feeling the items needed to make it work, has been hacked off the existing harness – so finding the exact “hack” and then finding what part(s) is needed to get it to work correctly might be a time-consuming job. I would be tempted to find a “good used” harness to adapt your existing electronic ignition onto – for it might be a lot less time spent.
The Washer bottle is missing, and I don’t see the pigtail(s) for it. I “think” the A/C wiring is missing a pigtail or two (I don’t exactly remember what ’81 A/C parts are used) – in the expansion valve area. Most of the missing items on firewall are emission related and are not missed (unless you live in an emissions inspection area) – but those missing electrical pigtails might be part of the problem.
There is a bird’s nest in the drivers rear area that is a, um, a “!!!” and I’m not sure what to say about it.
Those blue squeeze (with priers) tap-type electrical connectors are not good for automotive usage – for so easy for corrosion to occur and cause problems a short time later (but work semi-great for used car dealers to get a car off their lot, before the car lot disappears).
Good news – it is fixable, and the rest of underhood area looks great.
On an unrelated note: I saw a car on the June 2018 Oklahoma City Mopars car show, that someone brought a mostly original Imperial. He removed the non-working original fuel injection throttle body and bolted on a newer pickup (pre-magnum) FI system (throttle body and computer) onto it and car ran great. The Intake is the same and he still used some of the original parts (except for wiring harness, fuel pump a couple of other minor items) – but at first glance, it looked original.
The pickup computer (originally firewall mounted) was placed behind the grill. The air cleaner parts (and hubcaps) he kept in the trunk and took out for display.
I took more pictures – but these are the only ones I have with me.
