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Haven't heard anyone mention it, but today was the WOMO Weekend at the Sparta Dragway just a little south of St.Thomas, which is a little south of London, ON! My buddy and I went, didn't bring my Coupe as the remote oil filter install is still not finished, so we were pure spectators. There...

So I'm thinking you are talking about the tank=>vapor canister, yes? I would say keep that in place, and even if you remove the canister (which we all agree is ecologically bad - not judging, just saying) you still need a way to vent the fuel tank. Now having said that, our OEM fuel tank gas...

Late to the party (again...sigh), but I've got this box of (as best as I can tell COMPLETE) door power window strip-down off of a '82 New Yorker (Canadian M-body). Take a look at the pics...I held onto this b/c it all looked to be in good shape, the stuff was working (but that's like at least...

Brake or transmission, or??? Any damage (to the car) beyond the line failure itself? ...also: what specifically failed? Line itself (split?), fitting, flare, etc? I'm curious, that's all...

Dude, "the pleasure is all mine" as they say, always happy to help a fellow Mopar enthusiast! Come to think of it, I feel like I owe someone else on our site something...grrhhh...if you ARE that person shoot me a msg to remind me please...I want to say it was one of these "I think I have one...

Larry, is your issue similar/same to what I had ran into with mine? => NEW Torsion Bar Install Beyond that, I will say this: I was disappointed with what seemed like a "well, that ball is in your court now" approach/attitude that FF took with my inquiry re: those problems that I ran into...

I wish this was a couple of years ago...I had a 'still in the box' Headman tubes here...listed on both Kijiji and eBag for months...NO interest...practically had to beg for someone to pick 'em up...eventually they sold for $150 CAD if I remember correctly (LOL)!

I don't know what a "8.8" rear is (did you me 8-3/4? or are you talking Ford?), but even the gearing itself has to be matched up with the remaining powertrain/drivetrain combination. So what shape is the ride in? What shape is the motor/powertrain in? Love the idea of 'T-tops', but I'm...

Can't say I have...but I will say this: a picture is worth a thousand words...right? See that coolant pooling on top of the intake manifold and head mating space? Yup, you can tell it's weeping it's way into that area. Alright...so that's an interesting situation. I assume you torqued the...

Given the curve in the rear body line/fender area I suspect this is either '78 or '79...well, bumper is a more immediate give-away, but that can be changed much more easily!

Wow...you don't say...b/c you know, I would never accept a used Hooker in a poor-shape!

I have used three separate header products: 1) Headman (78050) - that's basically your bare essentials 2) Hooker (5901) - these I still have, overall better build, thicker flanges and pipes I believe, I got these ceramic coated 3) TTI (340BEW2-17835C0) - that's my W2 stuff, the only one that...

Thanks man...but seriously, I had no idea just how much MORE heat the TTI 1-7/8" tubes were actually going to put out...HOT indeed!

LOL...yeah, I get the "weird" part of it...but it works for me. To answer your question: NOPE, absolutely no rubbing, no touching, none of that stuff. Consider that I am also running 5-leaf spring packs and the massive MP 1" rear sway bar. But I will say this: that's a 3" diameter pipe, and...

Are you dead set on having a factory-like setup? (that being the tailpipes coming out under the bumper) If not 100% sure, consider the alternative, that being: dump the pipes out right behind the rear wheels. You can enjoy the "engine music" a lot more (right behind your ears with the windows...

here is a chart out of MP Chassis book, the answers you are looking for I believe.

I'm thinking factory was all 5/16"...no? Anyways, if you go bigger that's no problem (nor value add) providing that you match up correctly at both ends, meaning: good hose clamp and carb fitting match. But to avoid all that trouble I'd rather run with a factory size.

Ahhh...got it now...at first I couldn't tell if that 1st pic was just a "side by side" compare of the fitting...but the genius in-tank pics shows this very well! Nice sir...thank you for sharing this. BTW: given the stamped ribs in tank body, did you have to 'massage' that area for the Holley...

Interesting experience, quite the opposite of what I've seen with just about all of our family cars as well as my Mopar. From a performance/HD usage perspective I suppose the Coupe has been the 'poster child', multiple fast stops at the end of the 1/4 mile haven't seem to have put any warping...

FYI - the news sucks, as at least for me Raybestos was traditionally to "go to" brand for premium stuff.

I thought you'd never ask!!! (LOL) 1980 and 1981 Parts Books scans attached EDIT ==== What an absolutely atrocious/abysmal rendering of the uploaded images you guys...yikes...I can't read any of it...PoS forum functionality, seriously...in today's age there is literally ZERO reason to...

Same thing applies...the F/M/J-body measurements are the same.

So @Gunnar Schroder, are you clear on what FirmFeel is suggesting to you? Like @Mikes5thAve explained, the aftermarket options typically require you to remove the ISO setup and replace that with a B-body style configuration. The 'ISO-Delete Kit' has the TOP plate (the square with 5 holes)...

So there are a few points here that are very interesting to me: 1) M/E Wagner PCV - I have had this for a few years now and what a huge tuning aid this was...hopefully yours has been a great experience as well, how do you set yours up? 2) Spectra Premium gas tank w/ in-tank electric pump - oh...

I started in a somewhat spoiled of a point, that being: a fairly tight OEM power steering box (that was actually a FirmFeel unit), barely any sloop in the 12-o'clock position, the previously mentioned power steering pump pressure drop trick and basically all NEW components all around (part of...