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No, you do not sound dismissive at all. I am well aware of the limitations of my setup right now, or to be more correct the limitations of the adjustments I can make given my primary criteria (that being road handling), but I figured I'd run this by the group here to see what others may have...

As it happens I have the required front hangers as well to install the shorter (front segment) SS springs, but honestly was hoping that would not be necessary. My best 60' time was 1.870 and most of them are over 2.0. Nope, I have the clamps placed at all the factory locations.

Folks! Alright...so my Coupe is no drag racing machine, however proper setup should never be lost on anyone, so I've started to look at the leaf-spring geometry seeing that last time out at the track I was showing dismal 60' times and the video of car launching showed barely any chassis...

Nice...I like the sound of that...but high-10's is no easy feat, so at the risk of sounding like 'Debbie Downer', going that fast will take a bit of a budget! Regardless, there are some FAST cars on our forum here, so you've got some great peeps here to converse with and exchange ideas with...

Good news there is that we do actually have some chassis products from aftermarket (FirmFeel), so with a little fabrication (installing the pre-made stuff) you can stiffen things up a bit, which will lend itself to a better behaved autocross ride! Keep in mind though, drag racing vs autocross...

I can't do it...mostly b/c I'm already invested, albeit at a much lower entry point, probably TWO of my most successful mopar m-body purchases ever (tax & shipping included): 1) NOS grille for $252 USD back in Feb_2010 2) NOS grille for $75 CAD back in Dec_2012 ...and yeah, you could say "holy...

Very nice...and I can certainly relate to that "blood sweat and tears" remark!

I realize these are very rare, but holy smokes...$600??? There is another one out there that I've been watching and I think the seller is looking for $500...

So HS stuff is good, but pricey. Why not look at some alternatives instead? For example ProForm has 1.6 ratio rockers, bronze bushed (this is nice). If you are going to stick with the HS stuff here are a few notes worth mentioning given my experience with their rockers on the W2 build: 1) I...

Damn...it was at like $40 when I posted here. What did I tell ya: Carter TQ is the hottest carb out there...there you have it!!! (LOL, but c'mon, they are great carbs)

Folks! If any of you are committed to staying with the Carter TQ carb, here is a decently priced 9810s model...that's the GM linkage EGR version, easy to adapt any way for Mopar use. Anyways...the 9800 series carbs use the electric choke that's attached to the carb body, which basically frees...

Wagon!!!! Nice man...welcome to the forum.

Check out these Scosche Bluetooth radio transmitters: https://www.scosche.com/consumer-tech/car-accessories/fm-transmitters?srsltid=AfmBOorkijHS9ft4TFJtLsYn-56z7_0rd9QKFScFPH6io6-GfRog7_DC Basically the way these work is that you pair them up with your phone and on the radio itself you tune in...

It is very cool what you already have there, I didn't realize this 360 build was done. Yeah, 360 is a potent motor, I used to run one for many years and it was a great power plant.

Infiniti Dave! Welcome to the forum...it is certainly the right place for such project discussions, so let me toss this one right at ya: why 360 and not a 408 stroker???

I have no less than 3 or 4 of these put away somewhere in a box...LOL, so tell me exactly what it is that you need (pics???) and for the price of shipping it's yours! FYI - Canuck land here, so given the size of the box this parcel would need...well, it may not be the best option, your call

I was under the impression that the wider mount on the fleet cars simply provided more stability when it came to side-to-side movement. Ultimately you would feel this in any road situation where the body roll should be somewhat lessened. Partly for this reason the wider mount would be typically...

1) I am sure your '88 FSM has the same chart, but here is the scan out of my '80 FSM book, for the 2dr. crowd this will help Specifically I would use the 'TRANSMISSION CROSSMEMBER GAUGE HOLE' to 'ISOLATED CROSSMEMBER GAUGE HOLE' measurement, which is 55-7/8" (1419mm) on my chart. That would...

This won't necessairly give you all the details you're looking for...but way back when I used the POLY pucks (don't remember where I got them from, could have been Springs'n'Things though). The package I got had these large thick washers that were to be placed against the K-frame (at the top)...

What I was thinking actually was about taking a deck bolt with the round head and the square locating shoulder (right under the bolt head) and then having first cut off the factory stud machining the matching square retaining into the existing bracket shelf (the upper one obviously). This would...

Welcome to the forum! Is your '80 in a running condition and usable for cruising purposes, or are you looking to start a restoration project?

You know, I remember looking at this once and thought this could be replaced with a long bolt, along the lines of what you can do with the rear-sway bar to spring bracket linkage. If you were to cut off that factory spot-welded stud that attaches to one of the brackets and replace that with a...

OK, the important stuff here is to always check the level in NEUTRAL as that circulates the fluid around so you basically get an equivalent of transmssion being in use. It matters a bit that the fluid is supposed to be checked when HOT, that will cause it to expand a tad, but we are not talking...

I've got the TRW 18795 on my coupe and it looks like this one here => https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/K~cAAOSwkpxdMh7B/s-l400.jpg The difference, AFAIK, comes from the way the arm is positioned in the K-frame mounting bracket somewhat more 'positively'. My Moog Sep_2004 F3844 parts catalog...

If you are willing to give it one more try, do this: obviously take care of all the loose bolts, get it all tightened, fill the trans to FULL mark and monitor afterwards (I'll explain this later). Put the shifter in NEUTRAL and start the car. Keep it in NEUTRAL, let the trans pump pick up the...