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Still got... Come get.

I'm around here somewhere.

Ok then 2000 through the next month. Boat fix up money. After that its really too late in the season and the boat will have to wait till spring. This is with the new steering box but not installed and before I change the trans fluid and filter (I do that to the older ones I have every couple of...

Any takers at 2500$. Its road trip ready! Yea the paint and top need doing but you are not going to find one in this sort of rust free and solid mechanical condition.

Ok as soon as I can figure out how to DM. This ZenForo is a pile.

89fith. NY is not that far. :) Maybe we could work something out. Meet in DC? (I could take the train back.) This thing it up to a highway drive. Jonny... I could take it to your relatives, and they could store it? Do a relative visit and drive back? Pick you up at the airport? You get to VA...

Not even a nibble? This is at its heart a nice car that needs paint and a top. All the hard to fix stuff either is not broke or had been fixed (like the front suspension bushings). Make me an offer I cant refuse.

I would rather someone on this forum buy this than some one local that would most likely just trash it out. Video tour. If you are interested contact me though DM.

Well just great... I remembered this post when the horn on the 88 5th quit working. So I come back here for inspiration, and the pics are gone! :(

Here is why the book is just wrong on driving the rivets out. When the factory assembled the bars to the tubes they used a great honking hydraulic press and squeezed the rivet shaft out into the slightly larger bore of the sleeves. That locked the two parts together nicely but complicates...

I when I saw that blue 5th I had to check the garage. "Dude someone stole my 5th and drove it to CA.!" Youse guys up there in cold country sure have a lot of nice FMJ stuff driving around.

Lets face it Chrysler cars were not great handlers out of the box compared to equivalent GM and Ford coil sprung cars. And are harder to modify into a good handlers (parts labor) than said other brands. We did have a Challenger back years ago that was an autocross beast. But it had NASCAR bars...

In the same vein as my earlier post. I would love to put a late TBI 318/360 pullout into my 85 Ramcharger (as in NO computer). I would get mileage, power, drive-ability like the Holly 2bbl as good as it is, will never give. Depending on what deal you can get at the junk yard it might be the most...

Just for the record. Summit has the dist-box-wiring kit under their Proform brand for 150 USD. But I wouldn't do this without some effort to get the original system working. Especially if its the one with the O2 sensor-closed loop. They work rather well. Its usually not the electronics. I just...

I am just happy to have granny's 5TH. Which is is fairly good shape and relatively low miles. The paint and soft top need attention though. I hope when the time comes there is someone left that can redo the top.

On my 85 Ramcharger I have had longer than two wife's, the voltage regulator drove me nuts for two years (truck is not a daily driver). It would work fine and then let the battery get low enough to make weak spark and then work ok after a restart. The truck would skip under load, loose power...

The end bushing "holder" is actually two pieces. One long tube with the big end washer welded on and then the sway bar connector end, that slips over the longer tube. The whole shebang slips over the bar end, all the holes lining up. One final word about how to split the shells. If you have a...

I saw no need to weld them. The bolts that hold them on do an excellent job of clamping the halves together. Check this thread. Torsion bar details and the saga of my rebuild. http://www.forfmjbodiesonly.com/classicmopar/showthread.php?79-PolyBushings-com&p=28470#post28470

I finally finished this night mare. So I am updating. FIRST! Mark deeply where the bar end trunnions are in the receivers with a cold chisel, BEFORE you back them off. For the 2nd side. On the end bushing shell. I just kept chiseling in the split till I weakened the weld enough to crack...

I got back on the 5th Ave after fighting a few other fires. And I must say what a muther bleeper its been so far. I could not budge the cross rivet after cutting off the heads on both ends. So I center punched the rivet as close as I could to the center on both sides. Progressively I drilled...

Did you drill out the rivets holding on the end tubes? I am stuck there and trying to figure out the diameter of the hole so I don't enlarge it. Its bigger than 1/4" as far as I can tell so far.

I thought this was going to be obvious but no. I see if I grind off and drive out the rivet, remove the shell I still cant slide off the old and slide on the new. In fact I don't see where pulling the end unit tube off gains you anything. Do I have to grind off the weld on the end plate? Help!

I am in the process of splitting the shells right now. And let me tell you its a right bugger, compared to GM parts I have done the same to. You got two methods as I see it. 1. Drill out the four spot welds. Pick a bit that is about 1/8 wider than that ovoid shaped dimple that is the spot...

The new one is very hard to turn and takes a stout pair of pliers to move. It has the pre load you would expect. I wanted to put my experience here as a warning for those that here come later. Someone getting into suspension the first time may have wasted a lot of effort before they realized it...

Thanks for the reply. Looks like I got boned so I got another....details. Confucius say picture worth 1000 words, I say video is worth one million words. :) http://youtu.be/AWs00MwXovo