Nearly there.
Today I got the vinyl put on over the foam on the bonnet. It does not relax nearly as much as the foam. It is more forgiving about being repositioned than the foam. A roller was a waste of time. I used one hand to very firmly pull the vinyl into position and the other hand to separate the foam and vinyl and get covered in contact cement.
Biggest issue is getting the vinyl lined up correctly. I almost got it right.
So far I've used almost a half gallon of contact cement and 4 chip brushes. I'll use another couple of brushes before I am done because I am not doing everything in one day. The contact cement creates a skin on it if you leave the can open more than a few hours.
Pictures:
Put your vinyl on the bonnet and cut out some of the material where the back glass would be.
Ease the tension in all 4 corners by cutting slits within about 2 inches of the edge. Don't cut too far because you need to pull the vinyl over the sealer edge and to the back of the bonnet. Extra material will be glued to the backside of the bonnet.
I folded the back vinyl back over the top. Put some craft paper between the layers. Then coated the fiberglass bonnet on the back with contact cement.
Then coated the backside of the vinyl.
Notice the notches cut out along the seam. This is to ease the tension on the curve. You'll do something similar (cutting slits) around the back window. You don't need to cut notches and remove material on the back window, just cut slits to relieve tension. DO NOT cut to close to the inside edge of the bonnet. It has to wrap around to the backside.
The backside of the vinyl is now coated as well.
From here on out I have no pictures until I was complete.
My hands got covered in contact cement and I had to work quickly to avoid it sticking and wrinkling.
The good news is the vinyl is much more forgiving about being tugged into place than the foam. The foam just curled or went limp. The vinyl relaxes very little, but when it is close to being in place you can pull firmly to get it to lay correctly.
I tried using the roller to get the air bubbles out. Did not work.
Finally used an old t-shirt and rubbed it firmly with that. Worked much better.
The service manual says to line up the seam on the top/rear curved edge. While it was dry, I pulled and moved and yanked and smoothed etc that vinyl trying to line it up and see how it would lay. It did not want to lay flat. It didn't seem like it would fit left to right. Like it was too narrow. Plenty of material front to back.
I started the right side and worked to the left. Used one hand to lay the vinyl down and the other to pull it. If I needed to reposition, I put my hands between the layers and got them gooey with contact cement to encourage them to separate. Then used the same hand inside the t-shirt to smooth the material as I pulled with my clean hand.
Wrinkles until I pulled very firmly on the vinyl.
I got the top seam almost right. Its a little lower on one side than the other and the vertical seam on one side is a little further to the front of the curve.
Once I got the back done, I pulled the top, clean, dry vinyl back and draped it over the back. So the vinyl sides were touching each other and the the bonnet top and sides were now open to the air.
Painted the bonnet with contact cement, painted the backside of the vinyl with contact cement. But stayed about 6 inches away from the edge. I only painted enough vinyl to cover the side of the bonnet area and the top.
Once the bonnet was tacky, I began turning the vinyl material back over the top.
This part was a pain. You have to work quickly. You have two corners that have to be flipped over and everything wants to stick. I pulled things apart and repositioned many times before I liked the look.