If I was starting from scratch it would be a gen 3 turbo combination favor of the big block.
Comparison Specs of the 1997 Eagle Vision and the 1977 Chrysler Lebaron in their factory stock forms. They are pretty close in dimensions .
Comparison table in automobile-catalog
A 3.5L swap should be easier than a Gen3 Hemi swap – possibly.
You will have engine set further back in engine compartment for better front/rear weight bias and a lot of room in front of engine
I “would” think (no actual knowledge here) finding parts from an “LX” car (2005-2010 Charger, 300, Magnum), like the transmission, pulleys/brackets, computer. Wiring, etc. might be easier to find. I know the Pull-A-Part close to me may have 20 of LX vehicles to each one “LH” cars (1993-2004 Concorde, LHS, 300M, and Eagle Vision).
The LH cars really didn’t sell well and I don’t know of many owners who kept them. The LX 300’s and Chargers – is a different story.
I have no actual knowledge here, again – but if I was to guess, I would say the RWD (Rear Wheel Drive) version of 3.5L block is different from the FWD (Front Wheel Drive) – because of engine mount placement. The 3.5L was used in a lot of different body’s – so I could be way off base. The LH body has a North/South engine layout with a transaxle where the other FWD Chrysler vehicles used an East/West engine layout.
Also, I would guess headers for a 3.5L LX body may have a decent chance of fitting an FMJ body. The problem is finding a set.
If possible, I would recommend performing four different measurements- if at all possible – before the change.
- Measure the center line of front crankshaft to ground (or to another fixed location. To help, a person might be able to install a socket onto front crankshaft bolt (assuming it fits snug) and measure from it. Just make sure you add (or subtract, depending on which way you measure) 1/2 the thickness of the socket.
- Do the same for transmission yoke to ground.
- Measure the centerline of front crankshaft to either side frame rail. I would mark the location on your frame rail for future reference.
- Do the same with transmission yoke to frame rail (or some other fixed point).
Using a drive-on rack – makes this measurement easier.
On all Chryslers, the engine and transmission are offset to passenger (Right) side about 2 inches (about 5 cm) but is parallel to the centerline of car, to reduce driveline vibration.
There is also an engine/transmission downward angle – which is also used to control vibration.
I would highly recommend keeping both angles close to original, no matter what powertrain gets installed – if possible.
I would agree with that statement - but not sure about the turbo aspect, per se.
The bad side to that statement is I already have a garage full of big block parts . . . and not single Gen3 Hemi part.
Not really interested in starting over . . .
I'm in the same position.
There are three 3.5 blocks, iron (93-97), early aluminum (98-2004/5), late aluminum (05-11). There isn't a functional difference in the early and late aluminum blocks, really more of a casting technology change. All three are dimensionally the same. I had both generations of Intrepids, they were great cars anf the 3.5 is a tough little powerhouse
What about the 4.0? Used in the Liberty and the same motor just bored and stroked.
The 3.6L engine has variable valve timing and has the oil filter on top side of engine.
It is a built from scratch engine – so nothing interchanges with it, parts wise - except for the 3.0L and 3.2L size variants. The 3.6L (Pentastar – I think is what it is called), replaced the 3.5L engine in 2011
The 4.0L V6 engine is based off of the 3.3L/3.8L V6 (which has been around for decades) and I "think" it also has variable valve timing.
They say it is based off of the 3.3L/3.8L engine – but comparing both side by side – I don’t much which is the same. The engine oil filter is on bottom of engine (whereas the 3.6L is on top of engine).
I always thought having an oil filter on topside of engine was a foolish thing to do – but in actuality, it is not messy at all. A lot less messy than messing around with a normal oil filter. A person could perform an oil change on a 3.6L, in your tux, without getting greasy, just before going to a wedding – if one wanted to . . .
A 3.5L has a lot more power than what a 3.8L/4.0L makes. I've driven a 3.6L - but hadn't done a side by side test on the two (3.5L vs. 3.6L). I would "guess" the 3.5L makes more power - and is the V6 I would use.
The 4.0 wasn't based off the 3.3/3.8, it's just a bored stroked 3.5
Trust me, I used to own an LH car and the 4.0 Pacifica swap was big talk. I used to have very detailed data on the LH program and all the engineering that went into it. The 4.0 was a 32 Valve motor whereas the 3.3/3.8 were 16 Valve. There are some similarities but it's like Comparing a 318 Poly and 318 Magnum
Good Article here to the lineage of the 4.0. I had a 2002 Saturn L200 that had the oil filter actually paper cartridge not traditional metal screw on type on the top side, and it was a convenience.
Jeeps Kick Ass Engine - The History Of The 4.0L - Jp Magazine
89 Fifth I believe you are wrong on the 4.0 being a bore stroked 3.5L , maybe I read the article wrong though . Jeep 4.0 liter six cylinder engine
There are two totally different 4 liter engines. The inline six Jeep engine and the V6 used in minivans and the Pacifica. The V6 is based on the 3.5 engine from the LH cars. The inline six is based on the AMC Rambler engine.
The inline 6 was never used in the Liberty/Nitro or Pacifica. The 4.0 I'm talking about was the V6
And here is the 3.5 V6 (First Generation with different intake) Notice the valve cover design and timing chain cover design
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