2019 Project Log

Projects & Restorations

  1. Duke5A

    Duke5A Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    392
    Likes Received:
    111
    Joined:
    Apr 6, 2018
    Location:
    Michigan
    I'm getting a jump on things this year. Here is the tentative list:

    • Dana 60 swap with disc brakes
    • Front 11.75" disc brake swap
    • Converting to manual brakes
    • Custom gas tank with in-tank pump
    • Swap high stall converter out for much lower spec (maybe stock)

    Number one on the list is almost there.

    20190117_171004.jpg 20190117_170952.jpg

    The Dana 60 is one I bought off of Craigslist right before Christmas. It's a housing pulled from a 1983 F250 (Ford switched Sterling axles not long after). Originally it was a full floater, so if I had to change housing ends I opted to use something that I could get an economical disc brake kit for. The ends are Ford and the brake kit is from an Explorer. Included the rotors, brackets, calipers and e-brake hardware (e-brake is inside the rotor hub) for $390. Limited slip is a Power Loc and I reused the 3.54 ring gear set that the axle had in it. Just don't need 4.10 gears anymore.

    All parts to rebuild the axle came from Doctor Diff. He provided exact instructions on how to cut the housing down that even took the disc brake rotor and bracket thickness into account.

    More to come!
     
    Last edited: Jan 18, 2019
    Raff likes this.
  2. Aspen500

    Aspen500 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    3,844
    Likes Received:
    1082
    Joined:
    Feb 14, 2015
    Location:
    Rib Mountain (Wausau) WI
    That axle should be adequate!
    My car has (stock) manual disc/drum and it will stop fine but, you really have to push the pedal hard to stop quick, both feet if it's REALLY quick. Almost wish I had power brakes.
     
  3. Duke5A

    Duke5A Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    392
    Likes Received:
    111
    Joined:
    Apr 6, 2018
    Location:
    Michigan
    Four wheel disc is something I've wanted for a long time. The guys over on Moparts convinced me to try manual. The added leverage of the disc out back and 11.75" in front should supply enough stopping power without the booster. I figured if I don't like it I could always go to hydroboost later on. Really want to get rid of that booster off of the firewall.
     
  4. M_Body_Coupe

    M_Body_Coupe Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    158
    Likes Received:
    37
    Joined:
    Aug 19, 2013
    Location:
    Windsor, ON, Canada
    Mark,
    This looks very nice my friend! Funny..was going to email/txt you to find out what you've been up to.

    I am about to start (seriously) my stroker W2 build...so hopefully we'll have a few more chances at the 1/4 mile pass this season!!! (I promise not to bail on you this time)
     
  5. Oldiron440

    Oldiron440 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,871
    Likes Received:
    347
    Joined:
    Apr 25, 2017
    Location:
    Iowa
    I've got 11" buy something drums on the back of my Volare, I can scrub off speed quickly without locking the front wheels if the need arises.
     
  6. 7T8 Custom

    7T8 Custom Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    753
    Likes Received:
    257
    Joined:
    Oct 17, 2015
    Location:
    Vancouver, British Columbia
    Should be 11 by 2 1\2.
     
  7. XfbodyX

    XfbodyX Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    408
    Likes Received:
    83
    Joined:
    Sep 9, 2015
    That looks very nice.


    I just put 11x3 on my S60, I was going to pop for the rear kit but thinking it over drums like old iron posted work great for one good hit to slow. But if I drove it alot id have the disc.
     
  8. Oldiron440

    Oldiron440 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,871
    Likes Received:
    347
    Joined:
    Apr 25, 2017
    Location:
    Iowa
    I would do disks at this time, the drums were put on in 88 or 9 and the only option then.
     
  9. Duke5A

    Duke5A Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    392
    Likes Received:
    111
    Joined:
    Apr 6, 2018
    Location:
    Michigan
    Bit of an update...the 60 is painted with an aftermarket cover bolted on and installed in the car. Replaced the wimpy factory shackles with Firm Feel ones with poly bushings.

    Ended up having to modify the locating bolts in the springs and that ate most of the day. The perches that were installed onto the axle have larger diameter holes for those bolts. Welded a spacer to the tops of the bolts (no pictures).

    The aftermarket cover is really close to hitting the fuel pump mounting bracket I made last year when I injected the car. Might have to swap the factory cover back on until I get a fuel tank made.

    Slow progress, but all the two man stuff is complete, so I should be able to get the rest myself over the next two weeks.

    Still need to get the driveshaft changed out to the larger style yoke.

    More to come...

    20190331_160343.jpg

    20190331_160310.jpg

    20190331_160338.jpg

    20190331_160416.jpg

    20190331_160529.jpg

    20190331_161943.jpg
     
    Oldiron440 likes this.
  10. Duke5A

    Duke5A Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    392
    Likes Received:
    111
    Joined:
    Apr 6, 2018
    Location:
    Michigan
    Been very slow moving lately. Car is finally back on the ground and ready for test run around the sub. If all goes well then I back it around and start of the front brakes.

    Had a complete bitch of a time getting the banjo fittings on the rear calipers to seal. Turns out if you run the crush washers under a propane torch and let them air cool they seal much better.

    More to come...

    20190430_175317.jpg

    20190430_175335.jpg
     
  11. Oldiron440

    Oldiron440 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,871
    Likes Received:
    347
    Joined:
    Apr 25, 2017
    Location:
    Iowa
    Is called annealing, it changes the molecular structure.
     
  12. Duke5A

    Duke5A Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    392
    Likes Received:
    111
    Joined:
    Apr 6, 2018
    Location:
    Michigan
    Car is officially mobile again until I start taking the front end apart. The D60 is good and the brakes are finally sealed up for good.

    I took those fancy pants rotors to a friends house last night to pull out the Chinese bearing races and press in the Timkin ones, but discovered one of the rotors appears to have an issue with the casting. Going to see about getting the bad one replaced.

    In other news I rounded off both bleader screws on the front calipers. I know there is air in the line, but the brakes function OK. Won't be driving it until this is remedied though.

    Fun times...

    20190504_205832.jpg

    20190504_205837.jpg
     
  13. Duke5A

    Duke5A Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    392
    Likes Received:
    111
    Joined:
    Apr 6, 2018
    Location:
    Michigan
    New drive shaft too. Was still running the puny factory style u-joints. :eek::eek: New ones 7250 style and the yoke on the axle uses the u-bolt style retainer. Warm fuzzies...

    20190418_162106.jpg
     
  14. Duke5A

    Duke5A Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    392
    Likes Received:
    111
    Joined:
    Apr 6, 2018
    Location:
    Michigan
    Learn something new every day. It was amazing how easy it sealed up after doing this. I went round and round using different crush washer, making sure the surfaces were clean, etc, etc. Whenever I mess with copper crush washers again this will be done as standard procedure.
     
  15. volare 77

    volare 77 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    955
    Likes Received:
    109
    Joined:
    Jun 12, 2014
    Location:
    maryland
    I have had problems with aftermarket copper washers sealing. They seem to be harder then the mopar ones. I use the mopar copper washers whenever i can.
     
  16. Oldiron440

    Oldiron440 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,871
    Likes Received:
    347
    Joined:
    Apr 25, 2017
    Location:
    Iowa
    I hope I spelled it correctly, it's a process done to sheet aluminum and copper before working on an English wheel. It makes it soft and easy to work.
     
  17. BudW

    BudW Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    3,553
    Likes Received:
    945
    Joined:
    Mar 4, 2012
    Location:
    Oklahoma City
    Is that a crack on your rotor casting?
    Are those 11” or 11¾” rotors?

    It is like passing an act through congress (ie: not very easy) to get those bearing races pressed from those Asian brake rotors. I’ve given up on a few of them that had a bearing failure and just bought a new rotor over trying to replace one bearing race on an otherwise perfectly good brake rotor.

    Note: reman brake calipers are cheaper than trying to extract a broken bleeder screw(s). Yours are not broken yet but you might weight your options, before spending too much time on them.
    BudW
     
  18. Duke5A

    Duke5A Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    392
    Likes Received:
    111
    Joined:
    Apr 6, 2018
    Location:
    Michigan
    Alright, bit of an update. I got the new rotor and was able to punch out the bearing races that they came with. Driving the new ones in was easy since my friend with the lathe just turned down a piece of cylindrical stock to make a tool to do it. 11.75" rotors and new bearings are installed. Good thing I pulled it apart too because the driver's side outer wheel bearing was fragged.

    More good news is I was able to get the bleeders cracked and replaced. Front brakes are bleed and it looks like it's good to go.

    Next up, but not on the original list is tuning the power steering. I installed a Borgeson box four years ago and it had worked great. Then I went big block and used a new power steering pump as the small block and big block pumps aren't interchangeable (clock is different). Hasn't been right since. Turns out there is a myriad of different pressure and flow combinations out there for these pumps and buying a parts store box is a crap-shoot as to what you'll get. I tried adding shims to knock down the pressure and while it worked to give me the road feel at speed back, it made power steering at low speeds unusable.

    What I'm thinking the problem is the valving in my current pump has way to high of a flow rate. Turn One sells a flow reducer valve that is rated at 1.8 GPH as opposed to the 3+ GPH you see in factory applications. The idea now is to install it and at the same time remove the pressure shims I put in place and check it from there.

    Because nothing is ever simple though the flow valve isn't compatible with an inverted flare fitting; which our cars use on the pressure hose. Now I'm getting the requisite hardware to convert the power steering to -6 AN. Picking that stuff up tonight and will probably have an update by weekend's end.

    20190521_214927.jpg

    20190521_215155.jpg

    View attachment 34971
     
  19. M_Body_Coupe

    M_Body_Coupe Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    158
    Likes Received:
    37
    Joined:
    Aug 19, 2013
    Location:
    Windsor, ON, Canada
    Mark,

    What is the Borgeson pressure and return line fitting size? I got mine a couple of weeks ago but had to send it back b/c one of the bolts was actually cross-threaded and not even snug (the crush washer wasn't even collapsed).

    Summit says the new one is on the way, but I won't have that for a few days and am starting to get a little nervous about getting the right fitting sizes to hook up my stock lines. I think it is just a matter of getting the right adapter though?
     
  20. BudW

    BudW Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    3,553
    Likes Received:
    945
    Joined:
    Mar 4, 2012
    Location:
    Oklahoma City
    One of the problems with Saginaw P/S pumps is pressure. The flow rate is not an issue (I don’t think), but amount of output pressure is a problem.

    Playing with the springs and/or spring shims helps and sometimes you can get it right on, sometimes not.

    The Saginaw P/S pumps that Chrysler used, only came in two different flavors, Metric or non-metric. The metric pumps use metric threads and has “Metric” cast into the body, just behind the pulley (where you can’t see it). None of the FMJ or pickup/vans used Metric pumps. The V8's went Metric when the Magnum engine came out. The Metric and non-metric pumps are interchangeable if you have the corresponding bracket bolts/nuts. The pulleys will all interchange, with exception of press-on ('75 and newer) vs. screw-on pulleys ('74 and older).

    There were a kinds of Saginaw cans used, and all cans will interchange with the pumps. The clocking, and input/return hose connector is the two main things to look for. The round neck vs, oval neck vs. pear shaped can tanks shouldn’t matter, if clocking is correct and input/return hose is located where you need it at. Even GM pump cans will fit and work in some cases.
    One last thing on cans, is some return hose fittings are 11/32” and others (older ones) are 3/8” in diameter. All FMJ’s came with 11/32” return hoses.

    If you find a (Saginaw) can for a Chrysler big block, them it most likely will work fine, for ya.


    When I worked for a dealer, we had customers complain about too much power assist or not enough power assist for small people with /6’s). What we did was remove the 7/8” fitting from rear of pump, remove the spring & spool valve, and replace with a /6 spool valve and customer was happy (or V8 valve for the, um, older/younger generation).

    For some reason, /6 cars ran at a significantly lower pressure (via the spool valve).

    I didn’t put 2 and 2 together on this, for at the time /6 pump spool valves were a dime a dozen, but it has been found if you take the spool valve apart and insert a thicker washer in it (or combination of washers) you can achieve lower P/S pressure. I haven’t performed any shim replacements yet, for the easy P/S doesn’t bother me.

    77 FSM pg 19.24 a.JPG
    The "Union" or pressure hose fitting (what I call it) is 7/8" and in most cases, can be accessed with pump in place (which some fluid loss).
    77 FSM pg 19.27 e.JPG
    The spool valve (my term for it) is officially the "Flow Control Valve".
    77 FSM pg 19.27 h.JPG
    The 7/8" fitting. The spool valve and a spring is just behind this fitting.
    77 FSM pg 19.28 b.JPG
    The spool valve can be taken apart with a pair of vice grips on smaller diameter of valve and use a 7/16" end wrench (IIRC).
    If I was going to re-shim it, I would use either this kit or one like it:
    GM P/S Pump Pressure Valve Shim Kit
    BudW