318 down

[BudW]

I wish he would put the year/make/model on his signature . . .

FMJ’s have two different styles of bowl vents.
Mechanical (non Lean Burn/ESC) or electrical (with Lean Burn/ESC).
A third method would be to use older equipment that doesn’t have either.

I can’t access his pictures or video’s he posted on March 29 or 30 on my work computer (will need to go home, first).
For some reason videos are not allowed at work as well as some formats of pictures.
One of the problems of working 11am to 8pm shift . . .

To help, these are from my ’86 service manual and all versions have Lean Burn (ESC/ESA).

Both diagrams show large hoes going to the charcoal canister. The red arrows are the large hose.

On the charcoal canister there is a smallish hose coming from base of carburetor which sucks the vapor from the canister. The other hose is what turns the other small hose functionality on.

Personally, I think the charcoal canister/fuel vapor is a good system to keep in place.
That said, if you are missing parts – it is not worth time or $ to locate missing parts – unless you live in a state that requires it.
BudW

 

[AJ/FormS]

OP put a vacuum gauge on some of those ports, with the engine running..
1)Start with measuring manifold vacuum. Write the idle vacuum down. Then rev it up a bit, to something like 1800rpm, while watching the gauge. Write down the vacuum number.Remove the gauge and plug the port.
2) Hook the gauge to the port that is currently feeding the distributor can.At idle there should be no vacuum there at all.Slowly begin to rev up the engine. Very soon vacuum should appear there. The higher you rev it the higher the vacuum should be. By 1800 or the rpm you previously reved to, the vacuum should be getting close to being equal to the manifold vacuum, perhaps a couple of inches short.Remove the gauge and plug the port.
If this port makes very little vacuum,as the Rs go up, and never even gets close to manifold vacuum, then this port should not be hooked up to the Vcan!
3) Hook the gauge to that front bottom location where the small hose is, that is going to the canister. Tell me it's dead at idle,please.

I have a strong suspicion that your carb does not have a proper spark port

How many hoses are there on your canister?

 

[Intrepolicious]

I wish he would put the year/make/model on his signature . . .

FMJ’s have two different styles of bowl vents.
Mechanical (non Lean Burn/ESC) or electrical (with Lean Burn/ESC).
A third method would be to use older equipment that doesn’t have either.

I can’t access his pictures or video’s he posted on March 29 or 30 on my work computer (will need to go home, first).
For some reason videos are not allowed at work as well as some formats of pictures.
One of the problems of working 11am to 8pm shift . . .


Both diagrams show large hoes going to the charcoal canister. The red arrows are the large hose.

On the charcoal canister there is a smallish hose coming from base of carburetor which sucks the vapor from the canister. The other hose is what turns the other small hose functionality on.

Personally, I think the charcoal canister/fuel vapor is a good system to keep in place.
That said, if you are missing parts – it is not worth time or $ to locate missing parts – unless you live in a state that requires it.
BudW

My Cordoba is a 1980 with the 318 that's already had the lean burn setup converted to ECU. The existing Carter 2bbl evidently.

Sorry, it didn't occur to me that some couldn't see my sig pic, nor any of the pics I've posted. (I'll fix up my sig with some text)

 

[Intrepolicious]

I have a strong suspicion that your carb does not have a proper spark port

How many hoses are there on your canister?

Where should the spark port be going to? My canister has three hoses; one going to the top of the carb, one going to the base of the carb, and one thin line going back to the tank.

Here's a pic showing all three lines. The line at the top of the carb (which I'm assuming is the bowl vent) goes to the side of the canister closest to the fender. (As it looks like they do in both of those diagrams Bud posted above) So I think the canister lines are correct. I just need to make sure they're not clogged or restricted?

 

[BudW]

At home, the above picture, for what hoses I can see, are hooked up correctly - but I can't quite see the entry for PCV hose.

Note: Thanks for fixing your signature.
For some reason - I can't see that pic either, on my work computer.

Edit: post 84 shows what I need. The hoses on front and right side are correct, as well as PCV and vacuum tree. Will keep looking for rear ports.

 

[BudW]

OK, I found your Hi Def pic on post # 85 and have a few comments.

First, the blue circle. The rubber used for PCV grommet and breather grommet get hard over time and either crumble or so hard they are not pliable.

Go to auto parts store and get a Dorman HELP part number 42064 (and a new PCV valve) and that problem will be fixed.

The part number the breather grommet is Dorman HELP part number 42344 – But I don't know that you need one. If breather doesn't want to pop out easy, then it may also be rock hard, as well.

Second, Gray plastic hose marked with red X goes to the hot water valve marked with red circle. Sense the heater core is bypassed, that might not matter much – but having vacuum coming in from two different directions, it might effect A/C door operation.

Note: I suspect your heater core is leaking. If so, I recommend you get your old one re-cored (when the time comes) at a radiator shop, than to get an new aftermarket one. The aftermarket heater cores do not fit worth a darn and you will only lose some of your hair trying to get it to fit. A re-core might be cheaper.

Third, yellow circle (by distributor) appears to be a dangling wire. You might want to tape that off, in case it is a “live” wire. That wire touching ground – might be one of your problems.

Lastly, a white circle (by kickdown linkage). I'm not sure what that wire or hose is going to or is for. Also, it appears that it might be affecting the kickdown linkage operation, possibility.

Other than that, hoses and wires appear to be looking good.

Note: I might sound nit-picky – but only trying to help you with your drivability problem. If I sound harsh – I'm not trying to be.

Once you get car running OK, take another picture like this one (with lots of daylight) and I can advise on what other “smog crap” that you can discard – for I see a lot of items.
BudW

 

[Intrepolicious]

Thank you Bud! That's exactly the kind of nit-picking I was looking for! That's why I tried to get as many pictures as possible posted. You and AJ (and everyone else that posted) have been a big big help!

That plug with the hole in it made a big difference btw. Like night and day...

 

[Intrepolicious]

Oh, what you have marked with the red X is actually a wire, rather than a hose. Isn't it? (Where the brake booster vacuum line goes to the intake). Yeah I figured that one wasn't all that important, especially being that the heater core is bypassed and the A/C is not working for the time being. (That's going to be another project)

"White circle" (by kickdown linkage) is the cable going from the cruise control to the throttle mechanism. It's out of the way fine, and doesn't interfere with the kickdown linkage.

Bud, I really do appreciate your taking the time to look at everything and sharing the knowledge.

 

[AJ/FormS]

Friendly reminder for post #102, paying particular attention to how the port works that is supplying vacuum to the Vcan.
It needs to be dead at idle, bringing in vacuum progressively climbing with increasing throttle, until it peaks at about 1800 to 2400 at about 2 to 4 inches less than manifold vacuum.
It must not have vacuum at idle, nor go from zero to full manifold vacuum, just off idle.

 

[Intrepolicious]

Friendly reminder for post #102, paying particular attention to how the port works that is supplying vacuum to the Vcan.
It needs to be dead at idle, bringing in vacuum progressively climbing with increasing throttle, until it peaks at about 1800 to 2400 at about 2 to 4 inches less than manifold vacuum.
It must not have vacuum at idle, nor go from zero to full manifold vacuum, just off idle.

I'll have to see if my neighbor has a vacuum gauge. I will say that after plugging that port that I found the bad plug on, the car has been running like a champ. Drove it to work tonight as well.

 

[Intrepolicious]

Friendly reminder for post #102, paying particular attention to how the port works that is supplying vacuum to the Vcan.
It needs to be dead at idle, bringing in vacuum progressively climbing with increasing throttle, until it peaks at about 1800 to 2400 at about 2 to 4 inches less than manifold vacuum.
It must not have vacuum at idle, nor go from zero to full manifold vacuum, just off idle.

AJ, the port that supplies vacuum to the canister would be which one, the one at the bottom of the carb? I assume that the top one is the bowl vent, and that one goes to the canister, so the bottom one should be the one drawing vacuum from the canister. Is this right?

 

[Intrepolicious]

Also, any tips on adjusting the two mix screws on the carb for best performance? I've got it running really good now that I've got the ports properly plugged. I just want to "tune" it for the best possible results.

 

[Intrepolicious]

I see Rockauto has the filter for the Vcan for $1.62

 

[AJ/FormS]

AJ, the port that supplies vacuum to the canister would be which one, the one at the bottom of the carb? I assume that the top one is the bowl vent, and that one goes to the canister, so the bottom one should be the one drawing vacuum from the canister. Is this right?

See post #102

 

[AJ/FormS]

Also, any tips on adjusting the two mix screws on the carb for best performance? I've got it running really good now that I've got the ports properly plugged. I just want to "tune" it for the best possible results.

I think you got it covered. When they run really nice on that circuit, chances are it's perfect. Try to get them set to the same spec; if one is out at 2 turns and the other at 2.5; the average it out to 2.25.
Then every once in a while turn them in 1/4 turn and drive it for few more days, and so on. Eventually it will run poorly some where,and you'll notice it. Then turn them back out 1/2 turn and you are done.
That circuit is very active at or near idle. The transfers are active to a little better than 1/4 throttle maybe a bit more. Then the mains take over, from there on.While the mains may be in charge at that time, the other circuits never really shut off.
The power circuit can be activated at any time,in response to engine load, and it's fuel is added to all the other fuel. I can't really think of a way to activate the power circuit while the carb is on the transfers, that would be a special circumstance or a poorly tuned engine,but I suppose it is theoretically possible.
If the engine shows no; bogs, hesitations, or stumbles, at least it ain't lean. It may still be rich, but that is unlikely on a factory set-up; unless you defeated all the pollution equipment.
Happy motoring!

 

[AJ/FormS]

I see Rockauto has the filter for the Vcan for $1.62

I assume you mean for the canister. If the canister is still working, I'd have to say a new filter would be a really good idea.

 

[Intrepolicious]

Nobody on the road this morning... had the highway all to myself. I opened her up a little, couple times at WOT. Trying to blow all the crud out of the system. She loved every minute of it!

*arrives at work with smile on his face*

 

[Intrepolicious]

Just checking in... the car's been running great all week. Yesterday, I finally fixed the idler arm with the "premium" AC Delco part from RockAuto.

Then, this morning I go out and start her up and let her idle for a few minutes to warm up. Went inside to grab my coffee and my jacket (it was cool, in the mid 40's (F)) and came back out to find that she had cut off... I tried to get her to restart but had no luck.. ended up giving up and taking the Honda to work today :/

I really didn't have time to play with her, but chalked it up to the drastic weather change where we went from the mid 80's all week, to the 40's this morning.

Edit: Started up fine when I got home. Temperamental..

 

[Intrepolicious]

So the car started giving me problems today again. Same kind of deal; had her running to warm up in the driveway, then she stalled and wouldn't start back up again. This time, I decided to check for spark while it was not starting... guess what, NO SPARK! I checked all the wires and tried again, still nothing.

So I hopped in the Civic and ran up and bought a new coil, brought it home and installed it.... STILL NO SPARK! Damnit... I give up for today.. :/

 

[Intrepolicious]

And as expected, she starts right up this morning lol

Wow, really Charlene?

I'll start a new thread to differentiate the fuel issues from the spark