7.25" gears wanted

[Bruceynz]

Hi Guys,

I follow a youtube channel called UTG, he is building a car with a 7.25" rear end he is after some 4.56 gears for the 7.25" for it, he said they were a factory option in the day, does anyone know of or have a set kicking around?

Thanks
Bruce

 

[BudW]

First of all, there is the "Chrysler" 7-1/4" and a "GM" 7-1/4" differentials for their small pickups (S-10) many years back. The differentials are similar - but just enough difference so parts don't interchange.

The GM 7-1/4" differential does have a 4.56 ratio option.

The only vehicles that Chrysler used the 7-1/4" differential in was 60-76 A-body, '72 B-body, '70 E-body, FMJ's and '87-90 Dodge Dakota pickups.
3.2 was the Lowest gear ratio for any of the cars. The Dakota's did have lower gear sets - mainly because of the taller tires. The Dakota 7-1/4" options were 3.2, 3.5, 3.9 and 4.1 - but most were with the 3.2 or 3.5's.
There are a few 4.1 gear sets for sale on eBay.
If I recall correctly, an aftermarket company offered a 7-1/4" 4.56 gear set briefly - which I giggled at (at the time) sense the 7-1/4" differentials were only used for the 4 cylinder trucks.

Dodge also had 7-1/4" front differentials - which was odd because it might have been the only front differential out there that doesn't have reverse cut gears.
Also odd was only the 4-cylinder Dakotas got the 7-1/4" differentials but the allowed them for 318 M-bodies. All of the V6 Dakota's got the 8-1/4".
BudW

 

[Bruceynz]

First of all, there is the "Chrysler" 7-1/4" and a "GM" 7-1/4" differentials for their small pickups (S-10) many years back. The differentials are similar - but just enough difference so parts don't interchange.

The GM 7-1/4" differential does have a 4.56 ratio option.

The only vehicles that Chrysler used the 7-1/4" differential in was 60-76 A-body, '72 B-body, '70 E-body, FMJ's and '87-90 Dodge Dakota pickups.
3.2 was the Lowest gear ratio for any of the cars. The Dakota's did have lower gear sets - mainly because of the taller tires. The Dakota 7-1/4" options were 3.2, 3.5, 3.9 and 4.1 - but most were with the 3.2 or 3.5's.
There are a few 4.1 gear sets for sale on eBay.
If I recall correctly, an aftermarket company offered a 7-1/4" 4.56 gear set briefly - which I giggled at (at the time) sense the 7-1/4" differentials were only used for the 4 cylinder trucks.

Dodge also had 7-1/4" front differentials - which was odd because it might have been the only front differential out there that doesn't have reverse cut gears.
Also odd was only the 4-cylinder Dakotas got the 7-1/4" differentials but the allowed them for 318 M-bodies. All of the V6 Dakota's got the 8-1/4".
BudW

Thanks for the info, check out this /6 and 7.25" rear end set up

 

[BudW]

I didn't look back into the early '60's for gear ratio's - so a 4.56 might have been possible (but even harder to find).

 

[Bruceynz]

I didn't look back into the early '60's for gear ratio's - so a 4.56 might have been possible (but even harder to find).

He has 4.11 in it now, feels it needs the 4.56, this is a /6 setup you can build at home, it goes pretty good for a slant! Impressed! UTG has been taking people on a step by step build of car! Hopefully someone on here may have or know where a 4.56 is kicking around!

 

[Duke5A]

I follow the guy's channel too. Even got one of his stickers on the back glass of my car. Kind of refreshing to see a gearhead whose channel revolves around old school parts and methods...and this is coming from someone who has fuel injection on their car.

 

[Bruceynz]

This is my take on injection, is it better yes and no, for drive ability and cold weather use I think way better, for all out performance carb better, for hot rodders like us and our car is a weekend summer car then carb is fine, so what I have to warm up for 5min before I give it full noise, otherwise it will cough and splutter but I always let my cars warm up, all the metals expand different rates so can't be a bad thing to let them come up slowly to temp. Carb is cheap and easy to get in the ball park, man I think if you buy the right carb for the engine size it can just bolt on and go out of the box, not dialed in 100% but will go ok.