Bruceynz
Well-Known Member
The metal plates will touch if I keep tightening , I have nylock nuts, I will do them up until the plates touch.
7.25 to 8.25 in a J
- Thread starter Bruceynz
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Bruceynz
Well-Known Member
Once this is done the addco front and rear anti sway bars will go on, that should see an improvement in cornering!
I noticed the nuts, earlier.
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Bruceynz
Well-Known Member
I am feeling a bit wounded, had prop shaft shorted, balance and fit 2 crosses and I hope your sitting down for this , take a deep breath, here we go $355.90
Done local?
Bruceynz
Well-Known Member
Yup! Feel I could of bought one out of the USA and had it shipped to me for that!
A rebuilt magnum engine is about $5000 here, on ebay about $1500 for a stock rebuild!
A rebuilt magnum engine is about $5000 here, on ebay about $1500 for a stock rebuild!
80mirada
Well-Known Member
Ouch! That hurts! Last one I had done was $65.
Bruceynz
Well-Known Member
Yeah the joys of loving old mopars down under, I will end up having to sell a kidney to fund the project! Anyway my blow by blow progress report, exhaust back on, shocks in, hydraulic brake lines hooked up. Found the brake cables won't work so have to swap them over, grrrr means pulling the brakes apart! No way around it just gota do it, so got one out and gave up and went to bed 
Sorry to hear that.
At least you don’t have to bleed them, again.
On the driveshaft, I’ve never had to have one made or cut down before. I guess I’ve been lucky to find one the correct length and U-joint to fit. Now that I’ve said that, my luck may have changed.
At least you don’t have to bleed them, again.
On the driveshaft, I’ve never had to have one made or cut down before. I guess I’ve been lucky to find one the correct length and U-joint to fit. Now that I’ve said that, my luck may have changed.
Bruceynz
Well-Known Member
You have one advantage over me, you live in the land of plentiful mopar parts, I think there is only one other J body in NZ and I have seen 2 M body fifth avenues so parts are non existent down here! Can get engine parts and trans parts, but rear ends, body parts, glass etc all has to come from the makers home land.
Bruceynz
Well-Known Member
I am so close to getting this package together, I have never done a rear end swap before so going to be interesting how much it changes the car going from a 2.2 to a 3.21 and going from a weak smogger 318 to non smogged 360 with cam, 4bbl intake and carb and headers!
Any of the above will make a difference.
Combined, makes it a new car.
Combined, makes it a new car.
Justwondering
Well-Known Member
Bruceynz - enjoy seeing your garage.. and yes, that is a fine looking floor.
Bruceynz
Well-Known Member
OK picked up prop shaft its bang on 52.5"
My garage, its a mess 7m x 7m, high lift jack, 210amp mig welder, drill press, metal band saw, SK and sydchrome tools, 2m work bench, big vice. I bust all sorts of stuff and fix it again but I am no expert.
I have built a few boat trailers, exhaust systems, maranised engines so i get up to some intetesting stuff in my garage
My garage, its a mess 7m x 7m, high lift jack, 210amp mig welder, drill press, metal band saw, SK and sydchrome tools, 2m work bench, big vice. I bust all sorts of stuff and fix it again but I am no expert.
I have built a few boat trailers, exhaust systems, maranised engines so i get up to some intetesting stuff in my garage
Bruceynz
Well-Known Member
Rear end is in!! Found and easy way to get those clips off the park brake. Take bottom spring off, take auto adjust cable off adjuster, drop adjuster, open shoes at bottom a little, get pliers in there and pull spring back, get finger in there and push it out of the lock, slip a 14mm ring over the clip then, tap the ring spanner on with a screw driver, then there is a we cut out in the cable holder you can put your screw driver on and tap tap and its out, easy as total of 5 mins but took me to the 3rd time to work this out
Bruceynz
Well-Known Member
Here are some pics, you can see the screw driver has good access, then how 14mm ring fits perfect, then where you can locate driver to tap out. Very easy and quick.
Bruceynz
Well-Known Member
Just got addco rear anti sway bar in! Not to hard. Notice my Axel stands, scissor jack and wood under the car. Don't want to get squashed. Just need to do front bar!
What else can I do?? Its had ff type steering gear upgrade, solid sub frame isolators, ff top A arms, new ball joints and tie rod sleeves, kyb gas shocks all round, 7.25" 2.2 to a 3.21 8.25", nolathane iso clamp pads, gone from a 2bbl California smog 318 to a 360 4bbl and cam with no smog. I think I have now built the car Chrysler should have built!!
What else can I do?? Its had ff type steering gear upgrade, solid sub frame isolators, ff top A arms, new ball joints and tie rod sleeves, kyb gas shocks all round, 7.25" 2.2 to a 3.21 8.25", nolathane iso clamp pads, gone from a 2bbl California smog 318 to a 360 4bbl and cam with no smog. I think I have now built the car Chrysler should have built!!
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Who did you get your sway bar from?
Looks great!
Looks great!
Bruceynz
Well-Known Member
Addco fits a treat, allow an hour to install, Got front to do next.
ADDCO 893 | Buy ADDCO Mopar Sway Bars at JEGS
ADDCO 270 | Buy ADDCO Mopar Sway Bars at JEGS
ADDCO 893 | Buy ADDCO Mopar Sway Bars at JEGS
ADDCO 270 | Buy ADDCO Mopar Sway Bars at JEGS
Thank you.
It looks like you painted the diff, as well.
What method did you use?
It looks like you painted the diff, as well.
What method did you use?
