1. 80mirada

    80mirada Well-Known Member

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    Miner stall as I found some rust holes in the floor under the back seat while running wire for the trunk release
     
  2. 80mirada

    80mirada Well-Known Member

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    20190809_153338.jpg 20190808_194047.jpg

    Putting some work into the hood. Welding up holes from the hood pins and crappy scoop, and power washed the bottom.
     
  3. Oldiron440

    Oldiron440 Well-Known Member

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    Welding on the middle of a hood takes some balls!
     
  4. 80mirada

    80mirada Well-Known Member

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    Not really, the hood is pretty banged up in the middle.
     
  5. Oldiron440

    Oldiron440 Well-Known Member

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    Sounds like a good hood for a scoop!
     
  6. BudW

    BudW Moderator Staff Member

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    Sounds like it was a good hood for a scoop . . . a crappy one.
     
  7. Aspen500

    Aspen500 Well-Known Member

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    Welding in the middle of hood takes about as much balls as cutting a hole in the middle of a perfectly good hood for a scoop! There was some hesitation.:eek:
     
  8. 80mirada

    80mirada Well-Known Member

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    I know my limitations when it comes to body work. There will be a new scoop on the hood, but the old holes need to be gone first
     
  9. 80mirada

    80mirada Well-Known Member

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    20190813_165423.jpg

    Bottom of hood painted and installed, damn thing is tweaked but new hood bumpers should help....

    Other progress; master cylinder mounted, A/C H-valve installed, beginning mockup of kickdown linkage,and positive battery cable in place
     
  10. 80mirada

    80mirada Well-Known Member

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    20190819_161529.jpg

    Started installing A/C, and mocking up the kickdown linkage.
     
  11. 80mirada

    80mirada Well-Known Member

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    20190829_163619.jpg
    Condenser mounted and lines are run. The upper brackets had to be made. The main ground cable is run from the trunk.
     
  12. 80mirada

    80mirada Well-Known Member

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    20190913_153216.jpg
    Time to run some brake lines.
     
  13. Oldiron440

    Oldiron440 Well-Known Member

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    Your not going to use copper for brake lines are you?
     
  14. Oldiron440

    Oldiron440 Well-Known Member

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  15. Duke5A

    Duke5A Well-Known Member

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    Looks like it. I'm using the same stuff for my fuel lines and the brake lines on the rear axle. Never rusts and DOT approved. I used stainless tube nuts on my brakes too.
     
  16. 80mirada

    80mirada Well-Known Member

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    NiCop, nickle copper alloy brake line, DOT approved. It does have a copper tone to it, corrosion resistant and easy to bend, but has a very high pressure rating. Most Euro manufacturers use it.
     
  17. 80mirada

    80mirada Well-Known Member

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    20190914_204752.jpg

    It was a pain, but three lines run on the chassis, just need to get the hoses for the rear calipers so I can do the axel lines
     
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  18. Duke5A

    Duke5A Well-Known Member

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    That looks like a factory proportioning valve. That needs to be replaced if you're converting to rear disc. Good news is that is a GM product and the aftermarket has a 4-wheel disc version in the exact same configuration.

    1974-1977 Chevrolet Corvette Brass 5 Port Valve 4 Wheel Disc Proportioning Valve

    Mounts using the same holes and you don't even have to move any of the lines. Got this one on my car.
     
  19. 80mirada

    80mirada Well-Known Member

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    I need to replace the proportioning valve anyway, it is in crap condition.