Other than clearance, if the master spline is clocked correctly and the center-to-center distance is identical it should work. That being said, manufacturers being the tight-fisted folks that they are, if one worked in the other's application I'm pretty certain there'd only be one part number that covered both.
'83 Mirada street/strip project - my official return to FMJ!
- Thread starter 72Dodge
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72Dodge
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I was thinking that too (about your last point), but then I was thinking that maybe it was more of just an update/change rather than a compatibility issue. Who knows. It would be much better to get this thing off, so I'll keep working at it. It's sure going to be easier to swap it out now rather than after the engine is in and I find out there's a problem!
I was hoping maybe someone had used an a-body pitman and knew if it worked or not. Maybe not.
It is still odd to me how the two different manufacturer's arms are different shapes though. Both are definitely manual arms.
I was hoping maybe someone had used an a-body pitman and knew if it worked or not. Maybe not.
It is still odd to me how the two different manufacturer's arms are different shapes though. Both are definitely manual arms.
What about the drop? Did you measure that? My garage is mid-cleaning right now, which means it's virtually impossible for me to dig out my A-body pitman. It's a good problem to have, though. :icon_biggrin:
72Dodge
Well-Known Member
The drop is identical on the ones I have. Looking on RockAuto, there are various shapes available for A and FMJ-body pitman arms, the shape depending on the manufacturer. I'm almost thinking that if the drop, length, clocking, etc are all the same, then either would work just fine. I think I'm partially trying to just assuage my fears should I not be able to get this a-body arm off. I'm letting it soak in PB Blaster for awhile, then I'll try again.
I need to take everything out of all my sheds and garage too, but right now there's just too much stuff to take out. My current method of cleaning is to keep attaching parts lying around to the car!
I need to take everything out of all my sheds and garage too, but right now there's just too much stuff to take out. My current method of cleaning is to keep attaching parts lying around to the car!
72Dodge
Well-Known Member
OK, it still doesn't look like much, but the steering is done, and the transmission is solidly in place now. The brakes are done except the front plumbing/master (just realized today I'm missing a short piece, need to pick up some tube). I finished prepping the engine too, so the next step, probably this weekend, is to nestle the engine home. After that, the real fun stuff begins! I really wanted to paint the engine bay this year, but with my limited time I have to spend in the garage, I decided I better skip it, at least for now. Not being painted shouldn't affect the fun at all.
Jack Meoff
Mopar Maniac
Piece by piece she's coming together. :icon_thumright:
72Dodge
Well-Known Member
Another question... I'm going to put my fuel tank back in (moved over for duel exhaust). The engine bay was stripped when I got it, and it's getting a '74 318 with a Holley, so I'm not using the return line or the vent lines from the tank. For now, I'm using the stock fuel feed line from the tank. (Ultimately, this will get a fuel cell, electric pump, and all new larger lines).
Can I just plug off the return line at the tank? I assume I need to keep the vent open... where is the best place and best way to vent it? Ideas? Obviously I want it to be safe.
Can I just plug off the return line at the tank? I assume I need to keep the vent open... where is the best place and best way to vent it? Ideas? Obviously I want it to be safe.
jasperjacko
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Why not use the return line? It may help prevent vapor lock.
72Dodge
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Not even sure how I would do that from the Holley carb I have. I'd have to look at it again, but I don't think there's any provision for it.
jasperjacko
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It's not from the carb. Use a oem type filter with the third nipple. That small nipple from the side of the filter is for the return.
72Dodge
Well-Known Member
Oh, interesting. I had just planned to use a 2-nipple filter like my Dart uses. OK... will do. That problem solved (after I obtain a 3-nipple filter). Thanks!
So about this vent...?
So about this vent...?
jasperjacko
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I believe the vent is usually plumbed to the charcoal canister. Not sure the best way ( safest) to use that without the canister. For what it's worth, mine is currently venting straight to the atmosphere. My humble apologies to Al Gore.
72Dodge
Well-Known Member
Do you mean you just have it disconnected at the tank itself, venting straight out of the tank? Or is it routed to somewhere else? However I do it, I just don't want there to be a chance of gas spillage.
Again, this is just for a temporary setup, to get the car running until I get the new fuel cell system in place. Obviously, I just want whatever I do to be relatively safe in the meantime.
Again, this is just for a temporary setup, to get the car running until I get the new fuel cell system in place. Obviously, I just want whatever I do to be relatively safe in the meantime.
Sublime440
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I just got a chance to check your project out...very cool.
I'm pretty sure my vent went to the charcoal canister....which isn't there...it kind of just vents into the engine bay right now (the line is just there). I don't think I have the return hooked up either...this reminds me I need to check these things. On some of the old stuff it just vents out the top of the tank. On my Charger it vents to the gas filler cap on the quarter panel. You just don't want it to get obstructed and build up pressure.
72Dodge
Well-Known Member
Cool, thanks, this thread has become more of a question-and-answer thread while I figure out the FMJ cars and other things I haven't done before.
Thank you to both of you, you've given me enough info to figure it out. I will have to route the vent line differently than through the engine bay, since stock routing will interfere with my setup, but I'll figure something out. With the fuel cell, the vent will just go through the trunk floor anyway, with a filter on it.
I ordered some of the three-nipple filters from RockAuto along with my new small Denso alternator. More fun to come!
Thank you to both of you, you've given me enough info to figure it out. I will have to route the vent line differently than through the engine bay, since stock routing will interfere with my setup, but I'll figure something out. With the fuel cell, the vent will just go through the trunk floor anyway, with a filter on it.
I ordered some of the three-nipple filters from RockAuto along with my new small Denso alternator. More fun to come!
72Dodge
Well-Known Member
Got some other non-photo-op-worthy work done today, but had to stop doing that particular stuff due to rain (working in a cramped and stuffed-full garage sucks), so even though the interior is the least of my worries right now, I took the time to replace the STINKY steering wheel with the new Grant one. Between that and carpet dash pad (not flattened yet), makes a world of difference. I truly couldn't believe how horrible the old wheel STANK. It was like, well, I won't describe how I envision it got that way...
Jack Meoff
Mopar Maniac
That looks great!!
Your old steering wheel stunk??
Your old steering wheel stunk??
72Dodge
Well-Known Member
Yeah, like swamp @$$. It was bad already, but as soon as I removed the padded cover wrap, it released the funk full force (both in the wrap and embedded into the wheel itself). Fortunately, it was the only thing that stunk.
I would suggest you route the vent line up at the end near the charcoal canister, still connected to the tank. Parked on a downhill slant, the very-real possibility exists that the end of the steel line will be lower than the vent line at the tank. If you have enough gas in the car, it will siphon out. It took me two times to learn that lesson. :eusa_doh:
72Dodge
Well-Known Member
Oh.... that's a great point. I hadn't even thought of that. No matter where I end it, I'll make sure it's up high.
