904 slip yoke with 1350

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  1. Davesmopar

    Davesmopar Well-Known Member

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    Does anyone know where to get a 904 slip yoke for 1350 u-joint???? That doesn't cost $200.00 + .........

    And what do you think about the slip yoke having straps instead of being pressed in????
     
  2. AJ/FormS

    AJ/FormS Well-Known Member

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    I have not ever seen a 904 slip-yoke with straps.
    If you use it in the front; First, I'm wondering if it will clear the other moving parts as the suspension cycles up and down, and Second,then Ima thinking a driveshaft loop is in order.
    They (straps) seem to be fine at the back. Altho my 367 shredded a pair once. I converted the strap-yoke to U-bolt type. And later swapped it for a 1350.

    I guess you know that after the 1350 is installed, the next weak links are the splines on the planetaries..... and after that, the teeny weeney output shaft?
     
    Last edited: Apr 28, 2020
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  3. BudW

    BudW Moderator Staff Member

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    There is only one factory slip yoke I know of for the A904, and it uses the smaller 7260 U-Joint.

    When Chrysler went with overdrive (A500/A518, etc.) they went to the A727 yoke or in HD cases, went to a much larger slip yoke. The slip yoke used on my '97 Diesel pickup could be melted down and recast into three different A727 yokes and you might have enough steel left over to make a A904 slip yoke. That pickup also uses 1410 series U-joints which are 4.188” wide (almost an inch wider than 7260 joint).

    I don't have any recommendations as to what to do about U-joint size with an A904/A999 slip yoke. One possible solution is to go overdrive – but that might be overkill.
    I've even seen Dodge 1-ton dullies built with 7260 joints.
    BudW

    Edit: add picture
    U-Joint sizes.jpg
    The 7260 is roughly the same as 1310 and 7260 is also roughly the same as 1330.
     
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  4. Aspen500

    Aspen500 Well-Known Member

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    About the only 904 slip yoke for a 1350 series joint I found is the one in the link. As you said though, it's $200.
    Personally, I don't like straps even on the differential yoke, held on with valve cover bolts. I used a billet yoke with u-bolts on my car as recommended by Denny himself at Denny's Driveshafts (where I also got the trans yoke and the shaft itself) Using straps in the front doesn't sound like a good idea, JMO.
    Mark Williams 39031 Chromoly 4340 Slip Yoke 1350 series fits 26 spline output Dodge 904 auto and A833 manual transmissions
     
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  5. AJ/FormS

    AJ/FormS Well-Known Member

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    Did you mean;
    and 7290 is also roughly the same as 1330.?
     
  6. Oldiron440

    Oldiron440 Well-Known Member

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    I use Spicer solid joints, the smaller ones are not greasable but the larger numbers have zerks on the caps.
    I use a Cbody 440 drive shaft in the Volare and I can't remember the numbers but I've never broken one. The car runs 1.39 to 1.41 60ft times and has broken a ring and pinion but nothing in the driveshaft.
     
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  7. XfbodyX

    XfbodyX Well-Known Member

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    Id go to your local off road jeep place or a big clutch driveshaft business and see what they got.

    And yes, solid u joints rock but you can break them but not often and if greased good on install your good for 20k miles to pull apart and repack.

    I had a HD shaft made for my 4x4 was told If I broke the std u joints they make me a better one for free with soild. As I asked for solid.

    I was back the next day, shot the ring gear half way through the rear of the housing and toasted the shaft and broke 2 of the 3 std u joints.

    Unbolted the shaft and limped home on the front drive shaft while the rear end ate itself up the rest of the way.

    Good times.

    I agree with old iron a factory shaft can take alot, the one vids you seen where you asked if I was short shifting is 435hp at the crank with a factory worked ebody shaft with solid joint on drag radials. But I did egg out the holes in one, went to replace the u joint and the caps just fell through.
     
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  8. Davesmopar

    Davesmopar Well-Known Member

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    Well I already have the 1350 pinion yoke, so I guess I will just use what ever front yoke they have....

    Lots of good information here guys thanks for your knowledge and input......

    I am hoping to start setting up the ring and pinion next week....
    Carrier bearings are installed.....

    I have an extra pinion bearing that I am going to open the ID up for setting pinion depth.....

    FB_IMG_1586628768252156.jpg FB_IMG_1586628789868724.jpg FB_IMG_1587702339813191.jpg
     
  9. Locomotion

    Locomotion Well-Known Member

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    IMO Spicer solids are the best. Another "link" to consider is the pinion yoke. Billet versions with u-bolts are the best. OEM style can spread under severe use and eventually spit out the driveshaft. Not the u-joint's fault.
     
  10. Davesmopar

    Davesmopar Well-Known Member

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    Yes I I already have the pinion yoke for 1350 u-joint........

    Here is a picture while in the mock up assembly.....

    20200521_002406.jpg