Advice On My 80 Volare Duster

shadango

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It has been so long, I don’t remember.

Lots of penetrating oil and heat.

Generally it is best to not detach the intake from exhaust unless you “have to”.

When we split the manifolds on our 80, both bolts broke but luckily there was stud sticking out....I used lots of heat, wax and penetrating oil and just patience and worked them free....

Turns out we have an exhaust and intake leak so I ordered a new remflex gasket and we are gonna do the swap at some point.....dreading it. supposed to loosen the exhaust to intake bolts, bolt them up to the head and then tighten those from what I was told. Then again, someone said we could leave them together and have them planed as a unit.....not sure what way we will go.
 

AJ/FormS

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Any chance you know of a good replacement unit for that flapper dealio? The vac diaphragm in our flapper is shot.....
No, sorry. Perhaps somebody will offer up a spare here. In the meantime, if the diaphragm is sucking air, pop the hose off and plug it with a golf-tee or something. The carb is calibrated for the leak at the air sampler, so don't plug that guy, just the flapper valve thingamaboberrooney
 

BudW

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I may have a good spare.
Can you take a picture of yours?
BudW
 

Rifleshooter

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Anyone know what all would be needed to do an a230 swap to an a833 transmission with a 225 slant six?
 

shadango

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I may have a good spare.
Can you take a picture of yours?
BudW
Does this help??

20161106_161411.jpg
 

shadango

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No, sorry. Perhaps somebody will offer up a spare here. In the meantime, if the diaphragm is sucking air, pop the hose off and plug it with a golf-tee or something. The carb is calibrated for the leak at the air sampler, so don't plug that guy, just the flapper valve thingamaboberrooney
Ya know I never even thought about the possibility of that flapper valve diaphragm being a vacuum leak........
 

BudW

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Anyone know what all would be needed to do an a230 swap to an a833 transmission with a 225 slant six?
My first question is your A230 floor shifted or column shifted?

If floor shifted, then you are set. Just need the transmission and a shifter.

If column shifted, then you will also need the transmission hump in floorpan installed (as well as finding a hump).

The column shifted column can be left in place if converting to floor shifter. You can tap the roll pin out for the shifter handle (or just leave the extra handle in place).

One last thing is the clutch disk has a different spline to it, so clutch disk will also need to be changed.

BudW
 

BudW

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Does this help??
20161106_161411-jpg.jpg
It does.
There might be a part number on the sticker on the vacuum motor. What is that number?

Did you change the air cleaner out? (I might be wrong, but I thought the air cleaner hole is smaller on the 1-bbl)
If so, did you save the old air cleaner?
If so, it should be an identical motor.

Last, those vacuum motors are attached to the air cleaner either by a screw or a pop rivet. You can reattach the new one using either method.
BudW
 

shadango

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It does.
There might be a part number on the sticker on the vacuum motor. What is that number?

Did you change the air cleaner out? (I might be wrong, but I thought the air cleaner hole is smaller on the 1-bbl)
If so, did you save the old air cleaner?
If so, it should be an identical motor.

Last, those vacuum motors are attached to the air cleaner either by a screw or a pop rivet. You can reattach the new one using either method.
BudW

Yeah we changed to the 2 BBl air cleaner when we did our super six swap.

The flapper in the 1 bbl air cleaner is also dead. :(

I will check out the flapper for any other numbers.... the sticker on the top looks like 4095016
 

Rifleshooter

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My first question is your A230 floor shifted or column shifted?

If floor shifted, then you are set. Just need the transmission and a shifter.

If column shifted, then you will also need the transmission hump in floorpan installed (as well as finding a hump).

The column shifted column can be left in place if converting to floor shifter. You can tap the roll pin out for the shifter handle (or just leave the extra handle in place).

One last thing is the clutch disk has a different spline to it, so clutch disk will also need to be changed.

BudW
It is currently 3 on the floor, and what spline clutch disk would fit the a833 as well as will the bellhousing from the a230 fit on the a833 as well as the flywheel?
 

BudW

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I have two spares.

One is from an ’86 5th Ave 318 2-bbl.
Part number is 4306361
It looks like this one (which is currently on my (and also an) ’86 5th Ave 318 2-bbl).
20170315_160551.jpg

Your pop rivet is now a dual purpose screw (holds actuator as well as inlet hose adaptor in place).

I have another one on a bent up ’80 air cleaner – but not sure if good or not (yet).

I would bet a whole $1 dollar bill (US) that the top one will fit and work fine – but sense I’m not a betting man, I guess I should re-phrase this sentence.

I don’t see a lot of those vacuum actuators leak vacuum that often.

There is a temp sensor in air cleaner that looks like this (Pics swiped from eBay).
Temp sensor 1.jpg

Bottom side
Temp sensor 2.jpg

Top side

That sensor changes the amount of vacuum going to the vacuum actuator to adjust how much hot air goes to carburetor.

What I see most often is this sensor has hoses mixed up (reversed), hoses left loose or damaged (or leaking) sensor or hoses.

I believe (but not much data is out there on which port goes to the vacuum actuator) the hose going to the vacuum actuator is the one that has this pipe on the air filter side of housing (red arrow on above photo).
BudW
 

BudW

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From my '77 FSM (but should apply 100%)
77 Heated Air Sys 1.JPG


77 Heated Air Sys 2.JPG


77 Heated Air Sys 3.JPG


77 Heated Air Sys 4.JPG


77 Heated Air Sys 5.JPG


77 Heated Air Sys 6.JPG


77 Heated Air Sys 7.JPG


77 Heated Air Sys 1.JPG


77 Heated Air Sys 8.JPG


77 Heated Air Sys 9.JPG

My computer rearranged the order of some pictures, and won't let re-order them.
BudW
 

AJ/FormS

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Yeah we changed to the 2 BBl air cleaner when we did our super six swap.

The flapper in the 1 bbl air cleaner is also dead. :(

I will check out the flapper for any other numbers.... the sticker on the top looks like 4095016
Before you condemn those flappers check them with a mighty-vac. Or stick your finger over the air-sampler in the bottom of the housing, while the engine is idling. This should cause the flapper to close
 

BudW

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It is currently 3 on the floor, and what spline clutch disk would fit the a833 as well as will the bellhousing from the a230 fit on the a833 as well as the flywheel?
23 Spline for A833 and 10 spline for A230.

The flywheel and pressure plate, the bellhousing and all other clutch components are the same, other than the clutch disk (splines) – between the A230 and A833.

Now why they are not the same spline, IDK – but it has been that way for a long time.


Change the clutch disk (it might need one anyway . . .), the transmission and shifter – and you should be back on the road in no time.

I would also carry over the speedometer gear (and housing) from your old transmission to new one).
BudW
 

Rifleshooter

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23 Spline for A833 and 10 spline for A230.

The flywheel and pressure plate, the bellhousing and all other clutch components are the same, other than the clutch disk (splines) – between the A230 and A833.

Now why they are not the same spline, IDK – but it has been that way for a long time.


Change the clutch disk (it might need one anyway . . .), the transmission and shifter – and you should be back on the road in no time.

I would also carry over the speedometer gear (and housing) from your old transmission to new one).
BudW
Ok well I recently got a new clutch from auto zone and it has a 23 tooth spline and somehow fit on my 230 anyway, and as for the speedo gear, I need a new one anyway as the one I have currently reads somewhere around 10 mph too slow
 

AJ/FormS

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Anyone know what all would be needed to do an a230 swap to an a833 transmission with a 225 slant six?

What rear gear? Unless you change the rear gear, the Starter gear with the 4spd will set you back 10%, ie slooower. The second gears are close to the same,and the 833 gets you a gear between second and third. To take advantage of the 833 you will want to upgrade your rear gears 10%
The 230 has ratios of 2.95-1.83.......... 1.00, IIRC
..and the A-833 has.... 2.66-1.91-1.39-1.00
If you notice; your 230 is a short second/long direct design. The 1-2 spacing is 62%, while the 2-3 spacing is 54.6% This helps the slanty "launch" for two gears, and then Boom-boom,out go the lights! The A833, solves this by putting a gear where the slanty needs it, but at the expense of some giddy-up off the line. To get the giddy-up back, you need more rear gear. But whatever you add to the rear gear adds it at both ends, so your cruise rpm also goes up 10%.


To make this more understandable, convert these numbers to what I call road-gears by multiplying by the rear gear.
Let's say your slanty has 2.76s. Ok. the roadgears with the A230 are
8.14-5.05........2.76 and with the 4gear,are
7.34-5.27-3.84-2.76 but if you re-gear the back with 2.94s,then
7.82-5.62-4.09-2.94 or with 3.23s, then
8.59-6.17-4.49-3.23
The 7.82 is still about 4% short, while the 8.59 is about 5.5% higher.
Of course the cruise rpm will rise by 6.5% with the 2.94s, and by 17% with the 3.23s.
And if that is still confusing, Let's say you rev up that slanty and get 60 ftlbs at the flywheel.
With your current tranny,, and say 2.76s this will make 60 times 8.14 = 488 ftlbs into the rear axles. Changing just the tranny,this will be 60 times 7.34=440ft lbs. Notice the loss of 48ft lbs. You will have to rev it up higher to take off the same, But it will be more sluggish thru the rest of the gear. Second gear will be a tiny bit better than your current second (4.4%). Then you get the splitter gear,hooray!Since you didn't have one before, this is a 100% improvement,or more logically; a 39% improvement over the previous third gear. And finally the same top gear.IDK if that is any clearer or not, but in my head it was,lol.

There is no downside to the 4gear except the loss of performance in and thru first gear.
 
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BudW

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Rifleshooter,
would you mind starting another thread about the speedometer being off issue, please.
This thread has kinda taken off into two completely and unrelated different directions.

AJ/FormS,
You didn't bother me one bit. If you had, I would have sent you a PM.

I think we are both thinking the same thing about the vacuum actuator.
 

shadango

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Which is why I posted the information from my FSM, for him.
BudW
Thanks to you both -- but yeah, already did that. Neither hold vaccum. That is why I am looking to replace the 2 BBl one (the 1 bbl is no longer needed).

They look to be different from each other. The 2 BBL screws to the air cleaner, while the 1 BBl appears to be spot welded to it.
 
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