Mirada512
Active Member
Hey guys, currently working on my Mirada and I am wondering have any of you guys who have big blocks what type and brand of header are you using?
Big block headers
- Thread starter Mirada512
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Oldiron440
Well-Known Member
I've got Ebody two inch slip fit Headmans on the Volare...
If your building a street only car 1 3/4" will work great...
If your building a street only car 1 3/4" will work great...
Mirada512
Active Member
It'll be a street car, are those long tubes or shorty headers?
Aspen500
Well-Known Member
Kind of a moot point, since Schumacher is gone but, the "Tri-Y" headers fit like a glove and for the street are more than adequate. They're shorty 4-2-1 type headers and maybe other brands are available(?) The right side slid in from the top, left side from underneath with the steering shaft slid back. It would also go in from above if the master cyl. was removed.
Mirada512
Active Member
Yeah it bites about the Schumacher headers not being available but judging by how your engine is dressed with them shouldn't shorty headers works just fine then judging by the collector location?
Aspen500
Well-Known Member
Those headers were hard on the wallet, like $820 to the door but worth every dollar.
The outlets are in a great spot. I upgraded to the ball/socket connection vs flat flange and gasket so, no leaks. I imagine most any shorty header would exit about the same spot, don't quote me though. Not the best photo's but it'll give you rough idea of location. Pay no attention to the oil leak
These are from 6 1/2 years ago, before fixing the leak.
The outlets are in a great spot. I upgraded to the ball/socket connection vs flat flange and gasket so, no leaks. I imagine most any shorty header would exit about the same spot, don't quote me though. Not the best photo's but it'll give you rough idea of location. Pay no attention to the oil leak
These are from 6 1/2 years ago, before fixing the leak.
Mirada512
Active Member
That is hard on the wallet but if they work it's worth it. Thanks for the pictures they help tremendously! Your info is priceless!
Aspen500
Well-Known Member
Always glad to help, or at least make an attempt to . I know I've got some better photos of the fitment, if I can find them. To call my picture files a mess, is a gross understatement.
I liked the headers because they're built well, don't get in the way of the spark plugs (everything else does, but not the headers, lol) and the flanges are thick. That along with the graphite Schumacher gaskets and stud/nut kit mean zero leaks. I've even had them off and reused the same gaskets once. About 25% of the cost was the ceramic coating and, of course, shipping.
Only real problem is the tubes are really close to the starter, like 3/16". At first I had a new Mopar mini-starter, and it worked fine until it got a 10 minute hot soak. Barely turn the engine over, sounded like an old Camaro trying to start, you know the sound. Switched to a Power Master XS Torque mini starter and problem solved.
. I know I've got some better photos of the fitment, if I can find them. To call my picture files a mess, is a gross understatement.I liked the headers because they're built well, don't get in the way of the spark plugs (everything else does, but not the headers, lol) and the flanges are thick. That along with the graphite Schumacher gaskets and stud/nut kit mean zero leaks. I've even had them off and reused the same gaskets once. About 25% of the cost was the ceramic coating and, of course, shipping.
Only real problem is the tubes are really close to the starter, like 3/16". At first I had a new Mopar mini-starter, and it worked fine until it got a 10 minute hot soak. Barely turn the engine over, sounded like an old Camaro trying to start, you know the sound. Switched to a Power Master XS Torque mini starter and problem solved.
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Mirada512
Active Member
Maybe I can find some or something comparable. Thick flange is key! I read on Schumacher website that MoTech bought his product plans but MoTech hasn't done anything with them. Lots of money to be made.
Aspen500
Well-Known Member
I edited my previous post to include some more info, but you beat me to the punch. The flanges are 3/8". In my cars previous life in the early to mid '90's, I had Hooker Super Comp fenderwell headers (what WAS I thinking?) They had 1/4" flanges and leaked from day one. Even took them to a metal fab shop where they used a wide belt sander to make the flange beads flat from end to end. The center two ports are where they would always leak. Header gaskets back then were those white fiber things only, especially for BB Mopar. Tried 3 or 4 different brands with no luck. Would go a week and then, tick, tick, tick. Finally put a bead of Ultra Copper RTV around each port with no gaskets, let it cure a week before starting the engine, and they never leaked again. Had a heck of a time getting the headers back off though! The nuts could have fallen off, and I never would have noticed.
Mirada512
Active Member
Damn I didn't think hookers would be that bad! Looks like TTI has 3/8 flange headers but they cost the same as Schumacher.
Headers by Ed. Buy the flanges and any bends you want and stitch them up exactly the way you want them. I have done a bunch this way and I braze them to make them quieter. Tack them with a mig, then once they are dialed in pull them out and braze them. Make them yourself, that way you know they fit correctly
I paid a local custom exhaust shop to make a set of shorties for me. Had enough of long tubes with the small block before. Complete pain in the ass. Shorties are 1 7/8" primary with 3" collectors. Made from stainless.
Great point. I forgot to say that, but aside from me hating headers, if I have to have them for some reason I make them from stainless. It's not something I want to do again in 6 years. If at all possible, I find the best exhaust manifolds I can get.
Aspen500
Well-Known Member
Problem is, the only manifolds that will fit an F/M/J body with an RB are the restricted standard passenger car ones (far as I'm aware). The "hi-po" manifold outlets are in the wrong spot. The left side would exit inside the car onto the drivers foot, the right exits directly over the subframe rail. My original 440 came from a rotted to the door handles '71 RR, back in 1989. and it was obvious right away, the manifolds on the engine would never work in an Aspen.
That's the ONLY reason I made headers. The fit on both sides. When you do swaps involving things that weren't meant to be, headers become part of life, but I am not a fan. Go with stainless, make the most of it. Also, even though numerous people do this swap, they don't always fit exactly the same. I have done the swap half a dozen times, and even if I use the same mounts, the clearances can vary by up to an inch and a half in a couple of places. The engine tilts in a couple of different ways. When they made a master pattern to sell headers, they fit the very car they had available at the time. They may not fit yours. I would rather buy quality materials and make headers to fit the specific vehicle I have on hand.
1974ish Newport I think. I got it at AutoZone four years ago. Even the smaller booster barely fits. Been thinking about either going manual brakes or hydro boost.
Thank you, my friend. I often consider manual brakes. They are not nearly as bad as people say. Being able to get the rocker cover on and off is a nice luxury. I got a K-car booster for my last 440 Diplomat swap, the fit was decent but the booster failed right after the engine install. I sent it to the rebuild guy in Seattle and it was a year before it came back to me. The fit was still less than ideal though but OK
I am seriously considering a 426 Hemi into an M. I know this will suck. I have seen it in F bodies over the years, but never seriously looked into it. The 69 Darts and Barracudas had them jammed in. I just don't want to hack the car all to hell. I also don't want elephant ears. I have to figure this out and I don't want a pro stocker. I want it to look somewhat factory stock. I know I am being unreasonable. The driver's side clearance is going to be just hideous.
I am seriously considering a 426 Hemi into an M. I know this will suck. I have seen it in F bodies over the years, but never seriously looked into it. The 69 Darts and Barracudas had them jammed in. I just don't want to hack the car all to hell. I also don't want elephant ears. I have to figure this out and I don't want a pro stocker. I want it to look somewhat factory stock. I know I am being unreasonable. The driver's side clearance is going to be just hideous.
