Busted Multi-function switch
- Thread starter Intrepolicious
- Start date
Intrepolicious
Well-Known Member
Yes Sir, I have the 1980 factory service manual (both chassis and performance manuals) as well. I don't see anything in the manual about disassembly/removal of this 3747561 part, do you?
Intrepolicious
Well-Known Member
Thanks
I’m still unable to see the picture or video, but at this point, I guess it is moot.
The good news is you found a replacement and it is in route.
Cruise switches have a 4 wire connector, same from mid-60’s up until the late ‘80’s.
The late 80’s, they went to a PC board corrector with a fishing hole built into it (much neater design) – but not applicable to you.
The new switch will come with a wiring connector loose. The new connector may be white, black or somewhat clear.
There will be 4 round pin connectors attached to wiring pigtail, just ready to pop into the connector – but NOT YET.
Here are instructions from my ’86 FSM (should be the same as your ’80).
I recommend to either cut off the connector from your old switch or obtain and use a terminal connector tool to remove connector from wiring (but after you take a photo or make notes as to which wire goes into which hole).
Get a 2-3 foot (1 meter) length of solid copper (house) wire (insulaed or not). The diameter of wire doesn’t matter a lot, but size 12 or 14 might be easy for most to get ahold of. Stranded wire (automotive wire) does not work very well, in this case.
Tie the solid copper wire around the remaining switch wiring and put a little bit of electrical tape around the knot.
A knot like pictured is what I use:
Black being electrical tape.
Gently pull on switch wiring up and out of the column.
Untie the two pieces of wire and re-tie and tape to new switch.
Gently pull solid wire down until switch wiring appears.
Connect new connector onto wiring and you are almost done.
BudW
The good news is you found a replacement and it is in route.
Cruise switches have a 4 wire connector, same from mid-60’s up until the late ‘80’s.
The late 80’s, they went to a PC board corrector with a fishing hole built into it (much neater design) – but not applicable to you.
The new switch will come with a wiring connector loose. The new connector may be white, black or somewhat clear.
There will be 4 round pin connectors attached to wiring pigtail, just ready to pop into the connector – but NOT YET.
Here are instructions from my ’86 FSM (should be the same as your ’80).
I recommend to either cut off the connector from your old switch or obtain and use a terminal connector tool to remove connector from wiring (but after you take a photo or make notes as to which wire goes into which hole).
Get a 2-3 foot (1 meter) length of solid copper (house) wire (insulaed or not). The diameter of wire doesn’t matter a lot, but size 12 or 14 might be easy for most to get ahold of. Stranded wire (automotive wire) does not work very well, in this case.
Tie the solid copper wire around the remaining switch wiring and put a little bit of electrical tape around the knot.
A knot like pictured is what I use:
Black being electrical tape.
Gently pull on switch wiring up and out of the column.
Untie the two pieces of wire and re-tie and tape to new switch.
Gently pull solid wire down until switch wiring appears.
Connect new connector onto wiring and you are almost done.
BudW
Intrepolicious
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the detailed info Bud. As always, much appreciated!
I may need some clarification on a couple things, when the part arrives, and when I might have the time to tear it down. The part is scheduled to arrive tomorrow, but it might be a few days before I can get around to actually take everything apart.
You can do this piecemeal and still drive the car – If needed.
Bagging and tagging the screws is recommended
All in all, it is not hard to do – unless the old switch wire pulls through, without the wire to pull it back down with.
One can use bailing wire – but I prefer to use the softer copper (and slightly thicker) wire. Easier on the hands and less likely to scratch things. Heavy string can work as well.
The hole is smaller than the electrical connector is – but is still a fairly big hole. The problem is, the hole is not very straight.
BudW
Bagging and tagging the screws is recommended
All in all, it is not hard to do – unless the old switch wire pulls through, without the wire to pull it back down with.
One can use bailing wire – but I prefer to use the softer copper (and slightly thicker) wire. Easier on the hands and less likely to scratch things. Heavy string can work as well.
The hole is smaller than the electrical connector is – but is still a fairly big hole. The problem is, the hole is not very straight.
BudW
Intrepolicious
Well-Known Member
Thanks!
The NOS part arrived today. Taking a good look at it and a few pictures to record the wire colors etc. comparing it to the pic of the broken one in the car reveals that I do indeed have the correct part to fix this!
Broken existing part in the car:
New part!
Intrepolicious
Well-Known Member
Hey guys, I'm working on taking things apart. The small cover, around the tilt lever... doesn't it come off? Like un-snap off? It's a separate piece and would make things so much easier if it was out of the way.
Also, how does the wiper knob come off at the end of the lever? Does it unscrew?
Also, how does the wiper knob come off at the end of the lever? Does it unscrew?
Intrepolicious
Well-Known Member
Ok I got that cover off and the wiper knob.
Also, nothing in this thread (the fishing the wires, etc.) describes the method of removing this part from within the steering column. There's a pin that holds it in place, and it only goes in one way... it must come out toward the front of the car... and there's no room!
Also, nothing in this thread (the fishing the wires, etc.) describes the method of removing this part from within the steering column. There's a pin that holds it in place, and it only goes in one way... it must come out toward the front of the car... and there's no room!
Intrepolicious
Well-Known Member
Had to give up for the night.
Cordoba 1
Ed 0
Cordoba 1
Ed 0
Intrepolicious
Well-Known Member
So now I need to figure out how to remove that pin...
Intrepolicious
Well-Known Member
The first two pics are from the side where the multifunction lever arm was, you can see the pin sticking out on the lower left of both pics, holding what's left of the broken 3747561 part on. The pin doesn't have room to come out any further and won't go through in the other direction.
This 3rd picture shows it from the driver seat looking in. I've got the pin pushed in as far as it will go. Again, it won't come back in this direction... or will it?
This 3rd picture shows it from the driver seat looking in. I've got the pin pushed in as far as it will go. Again, it won't come back in this direction... or will it?
Intrepolicious
Well-Known Member
Also, this fell out. Have no idea where it goes.
Intrepolicious
Well-Known Member
So I've been stuck at work all weekend working back to back double shifts.. thinking about this switch thing, then it hit me -- Dremel tool! I'm gonna CUT that sucker out!
Maybe...
Maybe...
Aspen500
Well-Known Member
Sorry, I'm not familiar with your setup so can't offer any helpful words of wisdom.
BudW! We need you BudW!
BudW! We need you BudW!
Intrepolicious
Well-Known Member
Yes, some words of wisdom would be great. Especially before I go in and start hacking away to try to remove the remaining piece of this broken part. What I really need is a miniature sawzall... like a tiny Barbie and Ken sized one lol... I don't know if I'll be able to fit my dremel tool/cutoff wheel in here to do the job.Sorry, I'm not familiar with your setup so can't offer any helpful words of wisdom.
BudW! We need you BudW!
Finally, got some pictures I can actually look at, at work (thank you)!
Changing to .JPG did the trick, it appears.
I’m not sure my memory cells, for that operation – still exist.
I’ve replaced numerous cruise switches (broken or cruise add-on’s) but have not had the pleasure of replacing that switch yet (or if I had, the memory of such - has totally escaped me).
The washer button (only) on my 5th Ave doesn’t work and the problem is within that same exact switch (the rod pushes in to turn on washers) that you are working on.
I need that same switch – but has not been that high up on my list of priorities to do (or to obtain the part), yet.
Here are wiper switch R&R (Remove and Replace) procedures, from my ’86 FSM (should be the same for you).
I would still highly recommend pulling the old switch up and out with a “pull back” string or wire attached to it.
Pulling wire is not a problem. Pushing wire – different story altogether!
Your mystery part looks exactly like part of th
Changing to .JPG did the trick, it appears.
I’m not sure my memory cells, for that operation – still exist.
I’ve replaced numerous cruise switches (broken or cruise add-on’s) but have not had the pleasure of replacing that switch yet (or if I had, the memory of such - has totally escaped me).
The washer button (only) on my 5th Ave doesn’t work and the problem is within that same exact switch (the rod pushes in to turn on washers) that you are working on.
I need that same switch – but has not been that high up on my list of priorities to do (or to obtain the part), yet.
Here are wiper switch R&R (Remove and Replace) procedures, from my ’86 FSM (should be the same for you).
I would still highly recommend pulling the old switch up and out with a “pull back” string or wire attached to it.
Pulling wire is not a problem. Pushing wire – different story altogether!
Your mystery part looks exactly like part of th
Intrepolicious
Well-Known Member
Looks like your post got cut off at the end there Bud.
Hmmm "Step 6 - the lock housing cover"
I'm going to have to take another look at everything. I don't remember seeing these "2 screws" for the lock housing cover. And it still doesn't address the pin that holds the actual switch in place. Maybe once that cover is out of the way, everything will become clear.
Thanks Bud!
Shortly after the M-bodies went out of production, Chrysler still used a Saginaw style steering column (ie: made by GM) - but went from the internal style to an external style steering column (ie: newer columns has a plastic clam shell cover over the column. So much easier to get to all of the internal parts by removing small 3 Torx screws – and everything is exposed.
Fishing the wires in and out is no longer needed. Retrieving a dropped screw no longer required dissembling the entire unit (for the 7th time) no longer needed. The clam shell design is so much easier to work on.
I can change a turn signal switch in about 10 minutes time – and that is including taking tools out of tool box and unboxing the new part.
The bad news is they didn’t make one that would fit FMJ cars. We are stuck with the Chrysler design (up to ’79) or Saginaw design (’80 t0 ’89).
The good news (if you want to call it that) is at least some of the Saginaw steering column parts interchange with GM products in the same time line (like tilt parts, upper castings, etc.).
BudW
Fishing the wires in and out is no longer needed. Retrieving a dropped screw no longer required dissembling the entire unit (for the 7th time) no longer needed. The clam shell design is so much easier to work on.
I can change a turn signal switch in about 10 minutes time – and that is including taking tools out of tool box and unboxing the new part.
The bad news is they didn’t make one that would fit FMJ cars. We are stuck with the Chrysler design (up to ’79) or Saginaw design (’80 t0 ’89).
The good news (if you want to call it that) is at least some of the Saginaw steering column parts interchange with GM products in the same time line (like tilt parts, upper castings, etc.).
BudW
