Dodge Aspen Headers

[plyduster360]

What headers fit the Aspen best? I can't seem to find a thread specific to this question. Building a 360 because I jumped down the rabbit hole again and can't see the light to get out yet lol

 

[Camtron]

TTI or Dougs. They have headers available that fit great and clear the starter and drag link and won’t smack the road regularly.
Most long tube headers on the market fit no problem, but will hang real low, require the “new” magnum style starter that’s smaller, a 90degree oil filter adapter and running the drag link through the drivers side primary tubes.
I went typical long tube headers; If I had to do it all over, I’d go Dougs or TTI.

 

[plyduster360]

Thanks. Yeah I looked at both but Dougs doesn't list any specific to the F body unless I'm missing something. Tti are NICE I had them on my Dart 340

 

[XfbodyX]

E body TTI step headers work perfect on a F although I have read and will find out soon enough if the bigger HD oem steering parts might conflict.

 

[Camtron]

I believe you gotta look under A, B, C, E bodies options on Dougs. They and a lot of companies don’t list anything FMJ specific

 

[80mirada]

Doug's 453 fit FMJ bodies

 

[Duke5A]

Stay away from the Hedman and Hooker headers. As stated the driver's side will kiss the ground. What you save initially vs the TTI or Dougs is lost when you have to buy a second set.

 

[Aspen500]

Also, most Hooker headers have thin flanges, which equals leaks.

 

[M_Body_Coupe]

I hear everyone on the complaint re: Hooker and others that capture the steering link....but I have to tell you that I had the Hooker pipes on my coupe for about 8 seasons of cruising and they sealed very well, came out without a single road rush ding.

Sooo...YMMV!

Went with TTI pipes for me W2 build, but that's largely b/c it's a W2 head and ports are different, plus I needed a bigger primary pipe anyways.

 

[Duke5A]

I hear everyone on the complaint re: Hooker and others that capture the steering link....but I have to tell you that I had the Hooker pipes on my coupe for about 8 seasons of cruising and they sealed very well, came out without a single road rush ding.

Sooo...YMMV!

Went with TTI pipes for me W2 build, but that's largely b/c it's a W2 head and ports are different, plus I needed a bigger primary pipe anyways.

You drive on Canadian roads.

 

[plyduster360]

Thanks for all the replies. I've owned A bodies ALL my life. This F body is a new experience for me. So I'm learning from members like yourselves. I'm going to go with the Dougs 453 . Saw them on a Challenger and they fit beautifully!! Should work well on the 360 I'm building/putting together for the wagon. I swore I wouldn't jump down the rabbit hole but once I peeked in it I couldn't resist so off I go. 370i-sh hp should move this thing nicely compared to the 318.

 

[Duke5A]

What are your plans for the motor? For something like a wagon I'd toss a 4" crank at it. Doesn't need to be a high dollar forged rotating kit. Cast kit with hyper pistons would be killer. Put a tame cam in it that doesn't spin past 5500 and ride the torque curve off idle.

 

[plyduster360]

360 rebuilt with stock crank,rods it's already bored .030 over with 9:1 flat top pistons. Heads are "J" Casting with bowl work and polishing already done. New 2.02 Intake and 1.60 Valves. Comp Cams 268/280, Lift .477/.480, rpm range 1600-5800 & matching springs. Edelbrock Air Gap and 650 Quick Fuel Carb. It's a proven combination on a dyno. My buddy owns a shop and builds Mopars . Guy had the motor in his car and head gasket blew cuz he used cometic gaskets and didn't re-torque heads after 500 miles. So I bought the motor for 400 bucks and just need to freshin up lower end put in previous mentioned cam etc etc and GO!!!! Also having 904 trans built and putting 3:55 gears and posi in rear. It'll be a sleeper grocery getter. Original motor is leaking oil from rear main seal/ I'll stick it in the corner on a stand. Didn't intend on going this far but when engine came across my way at such a good price. I didn't look back. Already at my machine shop. Problem is I have to wait for intake and carb, cuz stupid Covid-19 screwed up the entire aftermarket parts industry and supply as we ALL KNOW

 

[383scuda]

How about power steering interference? My Super Coupe has OLD Blackjack AK5000 coated headers I installed in 1980. They are holding up very well, but I had to beat the crap out of them for power steering clearance.

 

[Aspen500]

Kind of pricey but, a possible solution for p.s. clearance is to swap in a Borgeson box which is quite a bit smaller. Only an idea................Having to bash the tubes and restrict flow for room kind of defeats the purpose of headers in the first place. Besides, it just plain looks bad

Ground clearance it seems is dependent on where you live. Here in north central WI it's not much of a concern, the roads, streets, highways and freeways are all pretty darn smooth overall. From what I've seen, in Michigan and some other states where road maintenance appears to be at the very bottom of the priority list however, it does present a huge concern. Guess we should consider ourselves lucky around here

 

[9secRR]

I used 1-7/8” TTI headers in my black R/T. No problems with figment.

 

[LSM360]

Spend the money now and avoid the headaches later and TTI headers with remflex gaskets.

Also a good time to re-locate your filter. One of the best moves I ever made. I have steel braided lines running up front near my factory AHB engine oil cooler with all quality fittings as well so I still have an engine oil cooler (you don't need to have one) and the filter in that area as well. The filter is away from the heat of the headers, it's vertically mounted for no mess when removing, and oil changes are such a breeze now!!! Bonus; I can run a much higher capacity filter too with all the room.